whats gan on said:i know a mate who uses pure solid
siver in stead of fuses he rekons it sounds better. but i dout it would be huge improvment
My mate Russ Andrews says he's not used fuses in his hifi plugs for over 25 year 😱
To me it's an obvious weak link in the chain when the mains leads cost over £100 each. But ill test it and see what it sounds like. If I like it i'll look into the sub woofer fuse too for hopefully better bass
Brent
rowemeister said:
My mate Russ Andrews says he's not used fuses in his hifi plugs for over 25 year 😱
To me it's an obvious weak link in the chain when the mains leads cost over £100 each. But ill test it and see what it sounds like. If I like it i'll look into the sub woofer fuse too for hopefully better bass
Brent
1m of mains lead costing £100 may be an improvement over the standard captured lead.
Surely the weak link in the supply goes much,much further - the house wiring, switchbox, supplier fuse and beyond. There are some major things about which you have no control.
Soldered-in fusewire is better than the expensive looking item you have - a six inch nail is cheaper!
Saying that the UK is one of the few countries to use plug-fuses is no excuse - they were introduced for a reason by a change in the law.
Andy
PS It does invalidate your insurance.
EDIT ... If the moderators see this, it may be removed as it goes against UK codes of practice etc.... Dangerous.
Brent
what is the mains supply rated at?
240volt 10amp
Initial turn on surge is on thing
Cable quality can be helpful, but there has to be the ponit of diminishing results.
Voltage is all relevent to earth or between to points
Me? i prefer circuit breakers😀
allan
ps I am not questioning your technical knowledge.
what is the mains supply rated at?
240volt 10amp
Initial turn on surge is on thing
Cable quality can be helpful, but there has to be the ponit of diminishing results.
Voltage is all relevent to earth or between to points
Me? i prefer circuit breakers😀
allan
ps I am not questioning your technical knowledge.
AWp - the detail that many miss is that the usual domestic mains arrangement in the UK is a ring-main (a loop of wire starting at the dis board, supporting several sockets, then returning to the dis board), not one radial per socket. Each ring is rated at 32A (usually, with 2.5mmSq wiring). This provides a very low impedance feed to support typical load diversity with an elegant economy in copper.
It also has the effect that though the connector (socket and plug) are officially rated at 13A each, the plug must be fused-down to protect the equipment and its lead, since prospective fault current in the days of fuse protection for the ring was >64A before the 32A ring fuse is guaranteed to blow.
This does not change just becasue we use MCBs now - - a 32A Class B MCB will pass >50A for 30s or so before disconnect. Thats 13Kw, way more than enough to start a serious fire, melt things, or both.
So - IMO there's no excuse for not using appropriate fuses; if your kit is so sensitive to PSU impedance that omitting fuses is audible, it's faulty...
HTH.
It also has the effect that though the connector (socket and plug) are officially rated at 13A each, the plug must be fused-down to protect the equipment and its lead, since prospective fault current in the days of fuse protection for the ring was >64A before the 32A ring fuse is guaranteed to blow.
This does not change just becasue we use MCBs now - - a 32A Class B MCB will pass >50A for 30s or so before disconnect. Thats 13Kw, way more than enough to start a serious fire, melt things, or both.
So - IMO there's no excuse for not using appropriate fuses; if your kit is so sensitive to PSU impedance that omitting fuses is audible, it's faulty...
HTH.
awpagan said:Brent
Me? i prefer circuit breakers😀
I have 16amp MCB at the fuse box
Brent
poynton said:
1m of mains lead costing £100 may be an improvement over the standard captured lead.
Surely the weak link in the supply goes much,much further - the house wiring, switchbox, supplier fuse and beyond. There are some major things about which you have no control.
Soldered-in fusewire is better than the expensive looking item you have - a six inch nail is cheaper!
Andy
An £100+ mains lead makes a huge diff to the sound
Yes there are weak links all the way back to the distribution board. A dedicated ring is the best solution with NO RDC as these add impedance.
That expensive looking item is 6mm copper bar. Each peice cost about 12p. A fuse is more than that LOL.
Brent
Martin
No problem from me about using extra safety precautions at all!
Fuses or safety breakers? anything is better than nothing.
This was NOT a comment about safety standards or the best way to implement them.
Check with your local country's standards
allan
No problem from me about using extra safety precautions at all!
Fuses or safety breakers? anything is better than nothing.
This was NOT a comment about safety standards or the best way to implement them.
Check with your local country's standards
allan
Ummmmm, fuses, this isnt the first time the removal of the fuse issue has been raised.
Personally, myself i wouldnt use anything other than a 13amp fuse.
There is a big risk of fire and/or electrocution under fault conditions. Most RCDs and MCBs are rated at 30 or 40ms before the unit will trip the supply. I am not totally versed on the individual manufacturers spec though. As mentioned it is possible to pass sufficient current to cause a heating effect of a cable or insulation. This heating effect may cause a fire hours after the initial fault has occured and been cleared. I have realtime examples of this that i have been involved in personaly. (work, not burning down my house lol)
The distribution fuse/device if rated at say 16 amps, on a 40ms trip device, would potentially pass a high fault current, i say potentially as this depends on so many factors including "luck" !
The higher the current available the greater the risk.
Most Consumer distribution panels are rated at 32amp and higher, the fuse offers an additional layer of protection to both equipment and user, the higher the current availability, and the less protection afforded must mean an increase in risk and potential harm ?
Brent, what do most other cable makers use ? I can see the limitations of the fuse, but wondering is there another alternative ? There are cartridge fuses available that may also offer a compromise ?
I am pretty certain that an electrical fire caused by a piece of equipment wich has had the fuse bypassed would invalidate insurance immediatly as mentioned. So there may be some liability risks there possibly that would need to be clarified or disclaimed against ?
Personally, myself i wouldnt use anything other than a 13amp fuse.
There is a big risk of fire and/or electrocution under fault conditions. Most RCDs and MCBs are rated at 30 or 40ms before the unit will trip the supply. I am not totally versed on the individual manufacturers spec though. As mentioned it is possible to pass sufficient current to cause a heating effect of a cable or insulation. This heating effect may cause a fire hours after the initial fault has occured and been cleared. I have realtime examples of this that i have been involved in personaly. (work, not burning down my house lol)
The distribution fuse/device if rated at say 16 amps, on a 40ms trip device, would potentially pass a high fault current, i say potentially as this depends on so many factors including "luck" !
The higher the current available the greater the risk.
Most Consumer distribution panels are rated at 32amp and higher, the fuse offers an additional layer of protection to both equipment and user, the higher the current availability, and the less protection afforded must mean an increase in risk and potential harm ?
Brent, what do most other cable makers use ? I can see the limitations of the fuse, but wondering is there another alternative ? There are cartridge fuses available that may also offer a compromise ?
I am pretty certain that an electrical fire caused by a piece of equipment wich has had the fuse bypassed would invalidate insurance immediatly as mentioned. So there may be some liability risks there possibly that would need to be clarified or disclaimed against ?
jksmurf said:LOL, Yep, The Glaedilig Jul version. (Min mor kommer fra Esbjerg). Sooo.. may I ask..where did you put the OTHER two fleas (the non clock versions)?
k.
The very Santa version. Lets see if I remember. It's 2740 posts ago!
The one at left supplies the pins 17,22 and 26 of the DAC, the analog 5V. You can do this by removing the wirelink and inject your clean 5V like this.
Attachments
avr300 said:
The very Santa version. Lets see if I remember. It's 2740 posts ago!
The one at left supplies the pins 17,22 and 26 of the DAC, the analog 5V. You can do this by removing the wirelink and inject your clean 5V like this.
And it is, of cause, pin 17,21,22 and 26. I'm sorry.
Quoting myself 🙄
I built one of these for my cd player.
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/ttse.html
cant hear no difference. Ive changed, caps, resistors, speaker cables, op amps, dampening blah blah. They all brought about changes in sound some more subtle than others, but the mains cable made no difference. I have tried various times with friends too and nada.
Any one else had this experience?
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/ttse.html
cant hear no difference. Ive changed, caps, resistors, speaker cables, op amps, dampening blah blah. They all brought about changes in sound some more subtle than others, but the mains cable made no difference. I have tried various times with friends too and nada.
Any one else had this experience?
Why should it?
If you look at it logically, how can the last few feeds in a multible mile long wire suddenly change everything?
Don't flame me, I just stand on my right to be sceptic.
If you look at it logically, how can the last few feeds in a multible mile long wire suddenly change everything?
Don't flame me, I just stand on my right to be sceptic.
avr300 said:Why should it?
If you look at it logically, how can the last few feeds in a multible mile long wire suddenly change everything?
Don't flame me, I just stand on my right to be sceptic.
Because it lowers the impedance a lot. Same as cleaning the pins can have an effect on the sound. Brent has measured the loop resistance of various power leads and the difference the "last few feet" (with good plugs) makes is pretty significant, numerically. You can also keep more RFI out and if it's shielded prevent leakage of a field into interconnects etc.
Don't expect miracles, especially if you are a very casual listener, and don't know your own sound well.
I heard a marked change using a nice Ebay lead on my CD63, a small change using a Russ Andrews Classic on my power amp, and virtually no change using an Ebay lead on my preamp (maybe because it has a mains filter inside, who knows).
Simon
avr, you may be right, in a poor mains supply such as a standard ring main, the copper conductors pick up all manner of noises and transients. Combine that with a less than good earth, then it becomes difficult for a mains lead to recover anything from the supply. Hence, you hear nothing.
In a mains supply system, such as a single run from the consumer unit, minimal mains connections, good quality measured earth, polished mains connections for instance, then consider this............the mains feed is now low noise, and a little purer sinusoidaly than the ring main (maybe), then it is possible that a decent sheilded mains lead may just prevent that little bit of interference from the rest of the house wiring entering the cable and ending up at the source or amplifier?
I am pretty sceptical myself, however, i have something like 4 metres of sheilded (main earth end only) 3.5mm2 silver plated mains cable with large ferrites at the outlet end, a polished MK socket also. My mains leads i made also, cheaply, all polished connections on MK plugs. The fuse is a polished 13amp. cables fit into iec standard sockets again polished. But i also run a large mains filter just for good measure lol, but thats just incidental.
I can hear a slight difference, but i reckon its the decent mains feed thats doing it, thats your first job to be done, get the mains feed right first. Dont skimp on it, splash out.
There is lots to consider on mains supplies such as power factor, impedance, influencing interference, the quality of the feed to the home, earth impedence in the ground, then the mains sinewave itself.
In a mains supply system, such as a single run from the consumer unit, minimal mains connections, good quality measured earth, polished mains connections for instance, then consider this............the mains feed is now low noise, and a little purer sinusoidaly than the ring main (maybe), then it is possible that a decent sheilded mains lead may just prevent that little bit of interference from the rest of the house wiring entering the cable and ending up at the source or amplifier?
I am pretty sceptical myself, however, i have something like 4 metres of sheilded (main earth end only) 3.5mm2 silver plated mains cable with large ferrites at the outlet end, a polished MK socket also. My mains leads i made also, cheaply, all polished connections on MK plugs. The fuse is a polished 13amp. cables fit into iec standard sockets again polished. But i also run a large mains filter just for good measure lol, but thats just incidental.
I can hear a slight difference, but i reckon its the decent mains feed thats doing it, thats your first job to be done, get the mains feed right first. Dont skimp on it, splash out.
There is lots to consider on mains supplies such as power factor, impedance, influencing interference, the quality of the feed to the home, earth impedence in the ground, then the mains sinewave itself.
I don't think we should discuss mains feeds too much. We mostly already have made our minds up. Let's talk about CD63s and CD67s.
Your right simon, lol, i watched your post come up while i was doin mine lol.
I like my mains thats all i can say, mine works nice on the CD63. The source is the most important thing.
I like my mains thats all i can say, mine works nice on the CD63. The source is the most important thing.
Greg3333 said:On a slightly related note, way back near the beginning of this thread there was some talk of tweaking the steps of the display dimmer so that the lowest setting turned it fully off.
Did anything ever come of this?
Up
And also, where to get the power supply for the Flea? Martin's got one PCB for me 🙂
avr300 said:The very Santa version. Lets see if I remember. It's 2740 posts ago! The one at left supplies the pins 17,22 and 26 of the DAC, the analog 5V. You can do this by removing the wirelink and inject your clean 5V like this.
avr300 said:The right one is feeding pin27 af the DAC, 5V clock supply. You can do this by removing RD01 and inject the 5V as shown.
The one in the middle is the clock.
LOL,avr300 said:And it is, of cause, pin 17,21,22 and 26. I'm sorry.
Quoting myself 🙄
Tak Tak! Thanks AVR, appreciate the close-ups and the "good oil" info.
k.
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