You are right about the component stability and also the inrush current. Just thought that i would see if local warming to the opamps had any beneficial effect. I have investigated op amp problems in the past which were affected by temperature even though the op amps contain temp compensation as well as corrective feedback, so i may see what happens. Audio is a funny old game where a lot of my experience and knowledge has been altered lol.
As far as the electrolytics are concerned the lifetime is detrimentally affected by the voltage applied (with ref to the voltage rating) and temperature. Usually electrolytics are rated at 20,000 hours lifetime, kind of like fans ! Weird eh...like the 80/20 rule & sods law lol
So yes the cooler the electrolytics the better. Anyone for pc style water cooling lol. I think ill dive into the physics and chemical side of electrolytics see if my memory is jogged a little.
Dennis
As far as the electrolytics are concerned the lifetime is detrimentally affected by the voltage applied (with ref to the voltage rating) and temperature. Usually electrolytics are rated at 20,000 hours lifetime, kind of like fans ! Weird eh...like the 80/20 rule & sods law lol
So yes the cooler the electrolytics the better. Anyone for pc style water cooling lol. I think ill dive into the physics and chemical side of electrolytics see if my memory is jogged a little.
Dennis
voltage only becomes an issue if it is taken over the rated working voltage, otherwise I believe that lifetime is nearly independant of voltage.ImSparticus said:As far as the electrolytics are concerned the lifetime is detrimentally affected by the voltage applied (with ref to the voltage rating) and temperature. Usually electrolytics are rated at 20,000 hours lifetime, ....................So yes the cooler the electrolytics the better.
However voltage changes eg. ripple will affect lifetime, but possibly only as a side effect. The main lifetime effect may well be temperature induced by the ripple.
That 20kHrs reference is more usually 2kHrs except in long life caps where it tends to be 5kHrs to 10kHrs.
Andrew i think you are right, always depends like you say long life or not, and the manufacturers vary some what. I have always noted the further away you are to the max voltage then the longer the life, in reality i rarely see big cap problems. The usual signs are leakage and failure, nicer when they go bang lol, peeps always say "were did the fluff come from " lol.
ImSparticus said:Andrew i think you are right, always depends like you say long life or not, and the manufacturers vary some what. I have always noted the further away you are to the max voltage then the longer the life, in reality i rarely see big cap problems. The usual signs are leakage and failure, nicer when they go bang lol, peeps always say "were did the fluff come from " lol.
Some caps like the all metal smt cans (often oscons) used on digital circuits smell of cat **** when they leak.
Brent
6h5c said:
LOL, let the ordering commence

6h5c said:
Very interesting indeed 🙂
Brent
Analogue psu caps
Chaps - what recommendations other than Black Gates do you have for op-amp decoupling now that Cerafines & Silmics are hard to come by?
(I don't like the sound of the BGs... it's a tragedy....)
My own preference a few years back was Silmic->Cerafine->Muse KZ->Starget->BG st.... surely something else must have come along?
Also, surely a new half-decent cap will sound better than a Cerafine or Silmic that's been in a CD-63 for 12 years? Or am I wrong?
Cheers...
Chaps - what recommendations other than Black Gates do you have for op-amp decoupling now that Cerafines & Silmics are hard to come by?
(I don't like the sound of the BGs... it's a tragedy....)
My own preference a few years back was Silmic->Cerafine->Muse KZ->Starget->BG st.... surely something else must have come along?
Also, surely a new half-decent cap will sound better than a Cerafine or Silmic that's been in a CD-63 for 12 years? Or am I wrong?
Cheers...
Hi,
I see the opa211 is rail to rail specified. Shame!
I wondered how many of the critical parameters have been compromised to achieve r2r?
Will that ruin the audio qualities, as it often does with most other r2r opamps.
I see the opa211 is rail to rail specified. Shame!
I wondered how many of the critical parameters have been compromised to achieve r2r?
Will that ruin the audio qualities, as it often does with most other r2r opamps.
Re: Analogue psu caps
I like the sound of my Rubycon ZL's. Very nice caps for around the saame price as the pana FC's. The rubycon ZA's are their more expensive cap, possibly try them.
b.t.w put my 4562's in yesterday, my 5V reg board today, and also my new RCA sockets. With a brief listen of imogen heaps - imegaphone, special japanese release it sounds very nice, but i only go the cd yesterday 😀
Glenn2 said:Chaps - what recommendations other than Black Gates do you have for op-amp decoupling now that Cerafines & Silmics are hard to come by?
(I don't like the sound of the BGs... it's a tragedy....)
My own preference a few years back was Silmic->Cerafine->Muse KZ->Starget->BG st.... surely something else must have come along?
Also, surely a new half-decent cap will sound better than a Cerafine or Silmic that's been in a CD-63 for 12 years? Or am I wrong?
Cheers...
I like the sound of my Rubycon ZL's. Very nice caps for around the saame price as the pana FC's. The rubycon ZA's are their more expensive cap, possibly try them.
b.t.w put my 4562's in yesterday, my 5V reg board today, and also my new RCA sockets. With a brief listen of imogen heaps - imegaphone, special japanese release it sounds very nice, but i only go the cd yesterday 😀
AndrewT said:Hi,
I see the opa211 is rail to rail specified. Shame!
I wondered how many of the critical parameters have been compromised to achieve r2r?
Will that ruin the audio qualities, as it often does with most other r2r opamps.
Andrew, maybe i forgot the spec but how do you mean rail to rail specified ? Do you mean the +/- supply rails ? Maybe being +/- ??
Last week I bought a CD67 mkII, and I started with ome mods right away. What a diference you can reach with losing some parts.
I just ordered the samples of the LM4562. But I want to make a good PSU for these opamps.
I haven't found a decent schedule, does anybody have some good and simple designs. The shuntmodels which are offered are a bit to pricy for me.
I just ordered the samples of the LM4562. But I want to make a good PSU for these opamps.
I haven't found a decent schedule, does anybody have some good and simple designs. The shuntmodels which are offered are a bit to pricy for me.
Re: Re: Analogue psu caps
Cheers - I'll do a bit of research on the Rubycons. I used Pan FCs in my tuner to good effect too. It just seems that 10 years ago, Elna and Nichicon had a massive range of audio caps but now we only seem to have BG's readily available.
LM4562 - I ordered three samples as that was the max, but one was a dud so beware. It appeared to work, but there was faint white noise. I switched channels (in my 67SE) and it switched too. Got the third one out of the tube and it was fine.
BTW - after burning them in I can see they have many strengths. They are very clean but I am finding them a little sterile. I put my AD826's back in and the music started to breathe again. So the jury's still out for me.
adfinni said:
I like the sound of my Rubycon ZL's. Very nice caps for around the saame price as the pana FC's. The rubycon ZA's are their more expensive cap, possibly try them.
b.t.w put my 4562's in yesterday, my 5V reg board today, and also my new RCA sockets. With a brief listen of imogen heaps - imegaphone, special japanese release it sounds very nice, but i only go the cd yesterday 😀
Cheers - I'll do a bit of research on the Rubycons. I used Pan FCs in my tuner to good effect too. It just seems that 10 years ago, Elna and Nichicon had a massive range of audio caps but now we only seem to have BG's readily available.
LM4562 - I ordered three samples as that was the max, but one was a dud so beware. It appeared to work, but there was faint white noise. I switched channels (in my 67SE) and it switched too. Got the third one out of the tube and it was fine.
BTW - after burning them in I can see they have many strengths. They are very clean but I am finding them a little sterile. I put my AD826's back in and the music started to breathe again. So the jury's still out for me.
ImSparticus said:
Andrew, maybe i forgot the spec but how do you mean rail to rail specified ? Do you mean the +/- supply rails ? Maybe being +/- ??
Rail to rail means the topology has been chosen to allow the peak output voltage to come close the the supply rail voltage at the specification's limiting load value and slightly farther below rail voltage at a more severe loading.
These topologies ALWAYS compromise some of the parameters that affect the performance of the opamp in many areas.
Read WJung who designed opamps and oversaw design in some of the big manufacturers for confirmation.
I have read from quite a few sources that these r2r opamps generally sound less good than the conventional opamps that strive for best performance without the r2r ability.
Glenn, what aspect of BG's sound do you not like?
You must have very particular tastes to also not like the LM4562! You dare to disagree with the masses 😀
Now that I'm getting used to my new sound I will try the 4562 in my CD63 and see if they're preferable to all 627s.
Got the new Krall album today. Back to the blander material of the past but the sound is sublime. (the pic on the back of the album shows the scene where I'm about to enter her)
Simon
You must have very particular tastes to also not like the LM4562! You dare to disagree with the masses 😀
Now that I'm getting used to my new sound I will try the 4562 in my CD63 and see if they're preferable to all 627s.
Got the new Krall album today. Back to the blander material of the past but the sound is sublime. (the pic on the back of the album shows the scene where I'm about to enter her)
Simon
SimontY said:
Got the new Krall album today. Back to the blander material of the past but the sound is sublime. (the pic on the back of the album shows the scene where I'm about to enter her)
Simon
Bah, jazz. Try some DnB like pendulum, or some electronica. These modded players sound awesome with fast hard hitting music
😀 😀
Im off to have a good listen now with some orbitl, then white stripes, finishing with a little pendulum. hehe
adfinni said:Bah, jazz. Try some DnB like pendulum, or some electronica. These modded players sound awesome with fast hard hitting music
😀 😀
Im off to have a good listen now with some orbitl, then white stripes, finishing with a little pendulum. hehe
Well DnB is one thing, as long as you're not polluting it with what they call "Modern R&B", Rubbish and Bollo...
My player likes Dire Straits, he told me it's his favourite band.
I think to appreciate which absolute direction any upgrades have taken you it's important to listen to acoustic music as well as electronic. Just occasionally some material can take a step back (in enjoyment) when you take it closer to the "reality" of what's actually on the disc. Of course most really great upgrades make everything sound better, like my DCT enamelled copper interconnect mmmmmm......
Btw, I was surprised at how clean and nice Leftism still sounds after all these upgrades, a pleasant surprise 😎
Simon
Andrew, ok i see what you mean. Most opamps that i work with are considered rtr, it depends on what output you require. Its obvious you need to ensure you dont bottom out the output in an audio application, ie clashing with a lower than specified supply line voltage.
Simon, which Diana Krall album, i got to see the pic on the rear lol
Dennis
Simon, which Diana Krall album, i got to see the pic on the rear lol
Dennis
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