Just recieved my 4562's, sockets, test cd, and printed off service manual from dennis (Imsparticus). Thank you so much mate, now im going to have to open up my player and have a play today 
😀
The 5V reg board is going in today as well.
Just a question about interconnects. i have a 'Mark Grant' Canare one i got from AVforums for a nice price of £25. Do you think there is room for significant improvement, especially with DIY kits. I love this look of the kimber PBJ, and found some dutch site with how to make a DIY version, but there doesn;t seem to be anywhere that will sell lengths of the stuff:
http://www.kimber.com/Products/Interconnects/PBJ/PBJ.aspx
Actually just realised my dad has a kimber cable in his Hi-fi that looks exactly like, or is the PBJ 😱 and has had it for quite a number of years. He doesn't listen to much music, so i might do a swap with my IC and have a listen.
😀 The 5V reg board is going in today as well.
Just a question about interconnects. i have a 'Mark Grant' Canare one i got from AVforums for a nice price of £25. Do you think there is room for significant improvement, especially with DIY kits. I love this look of the kimber PBJ, and found some dutch site with how to make a DIY version, but there doesn;t seem to be anywhere that will sell lengths of the stuff:
http://www.kimber.com/Products/Interconnects/PBJ/PBJ.aspx
Actually just realised my dad has a kimber cable in his Hi-fi that looks exactly like, or is the PBJ 😱 and has had it for quite a number of years. He doesn't listen to much music, so i might do a swap with my IC and have a listen.
adfinni said:Just recieved my 4562's, sockets, test cd, and printed off service manual from dennis (Imsparticus). Thank you so much mate, now im going to have to open up my player and have a play today
The 5V reg board is going in today as well.
Just a question about interconnects. i have a 'Mark Grant' Canare one i got from AVforums for a nice price of £25. Do you think there is room for significant improvement, especially with DIY kits. I love this look of the kimber PBJ, and found some dutch site with how to make a DIY version, but there doesn;t seem to be anywhere that will sell lengths of the stuff:
http://www.kimber.com/Products/Interconnects/PBJ/PBJ.aspx
Actually just realised my dad has a kimber cable in his Hi-fi that looks exactly like, or is the PBJ 😱 and has had it for quite a number of years. He doesn't listen to much music, so i might do a swap with my IC and have a listen.
I love all Kimber / Russ Andrews products. I want this one NICE
From the link I posted earlier I believe the Cable Talk 'Broadcast 3' in DIY form is the best cable for your money. Its really good and only £20 (RRP £80). I have this cable on my center and rear channels.
Broadcast 3
Brent
That kimber cable looks ok, il take a 10m reel of it 😉 Looks lucious !!!!
The cable talk seems highly recommended by you, but they don't seem to do the other DIY kit anymore with those eichmann bullets.
Il consider that, after ive stolen my dads kimber cable. Im sure it's an earlier version of the PBJ, and all i can say is NICE, I LIKE.
The cable talk seems highly recommended by you, but they don't seem to do the other DIY kit anymore with those eichmann bullets.
Il consider that, after ive stolen my dads kimber cable. Im sure it's an earlier version of the PBJ, and all i can say is NICE, I LIKE.
adfinni said:
The last one I rang up about and asked to supply the cable with no plaugs and bought some bullets off them. I always fit bullets.
Brent
Ahh cool, ive read that bullets are the dogs bollox !
THanks for the email reply about my reg board fitting brent, but im just wondering where should i be putting the ground wires for each of the connections?
Should i just find the nearest ground, e.g. for the Dec analog (R511), i should wire the output of the 5V reg to the hole of R511 connected to pin 11 of the decoder (V analogue), AND then wire the ground wire to a component connected to pin 12 of the Dec e.g. the leg of C509, C510 etc, connected to the ground?
ta
THanks for the email reply about my reg board fitting brent, but im just wondering where should i be putting the ground wires for each of the connections?
Should i just find the nearest ground, e.g. for the Dec analog (R511), i should wire the output of the 5V reg to the hole of R511 connected to pin 11 of the decoder (V analogue), AND then wire the ground wire to a component connected to pin 12 of the Dec e.g. the leg of C509, C510 etc, connected to the ground?
ta
adfinni said:
Run all the gnd to the star where the two main caps for the +/- 20v is(C803 804).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Brent
Ah cool, but there will be 5 more wires going there and its already packed at that star with my 12V reg grounds 😱
Il make a mini star ground out of some vero board to put all the reg grounds to, then run a single wire to the star ground in your piccy 😀
Il make a mini star ground out of some vero board to put all the reg grounds to, then run a single wire to the star ground in your piccy 😀
hey brent, just wondered do i need a separate ground for each of my 3 reg's on my reg board? As it's stripe board and all the grounds are connected, could i just run a single round wire from the last reg on the board to the ground star ?
ta
ta
Yes you can, but i would run two or 3 wires from the same spot and twist them. This way you are halving etc the resistance of the wire.
Brent
Brent
Adfinni, no problem, sorry it took longer as i had been away and i forgot to confirm the order via email lol. Hope the silver solder helps, use it on your leads also.
The test cd is pretty good, it also has a demag track on it, i am still a little sceptical, however, i read a few indepandant user reviews i think on here who said it gave a improvement.
My 4562's get better and better i reckon, i am very pleased even with the hdam still in, i been so busy had no time to mod.
Dennis
Sounds like the HiFi Choice freebie to me... 😕
Regardless of the burn-in/basting debate, the LM4562s are sounding very good, 24 hours or so in.
Regardless of the burn-in/basting debate, the LM4562s are sounding very good, 24 hours or so in.
Yeh Brent it is indeed the hifi choice freebie, I read a few reviews on here i think, too many people recommended the Isotek soundtracks for burn in and demag, there is even a pretty cool cone exerciser on a seriously low frequency, i reckon nearing dc lol.
I use it after anything i do, and run some tracks on sunday mornings to demag, ummmmm, i cant help but think it sounds goooood afterwards lol. Its good for identifying speaker rattles without damaging your inner ear also
Brent check your PM.
dennis
I use it after anything i do, and run some tracks on sunday mornings to demag, ummmmm, i cant help but think it sounds goooood afterwards lol. Its good for identifying speaker rattles without damaging your inner ear also
Brent check your PM.
dennis
Just a thought...............
You all agree that your player sounds better when warm?
I have been contemplating adding some heat to the opamps, possibly controlled to see if this has an effect on the sound short term and long term.
I was thinking of anything from say a basic carbon resisitor to peltier style device (im sure it heats as well as cools ?). You guys got any thoughts on this.
This isnt the only device that needs warming but it may be a start, and may even benefit the sound, you never know may even find the op amps need to be cooler !
Dennis
You all agree that your player sounds better when warm?
I have been contemplating adding some heat to the opamps, possibly controlled to see if this has an effect on the sound short term and long term.
I was thinking of anything from say a basic carbon resisitor to peltier style device (im sure it heats as well as cools ?). You guys got any thoughts on this.
This isnt the only device that needs warming but it may be a start, and may even benefit the sound, you never know may even find the op amps need to be cooler !
Dennis
I do remember the distinct 'warm-up' thing with my 63s. I don't think it is the opamps either - look to the vast number of electrolytic caps used, which all have leakage currents which take time to stabilise from switch-on.
Cure was to leave it on all the time... these days I avoid electrolytic caps as far as possible.
Cure was to leave it on all the time... these days I avoid electrolytic caps as far as possible.
Thats true Martin, i cant get heater jackets round the caps tho lol, plus heat does degrade life of electrolytics. I will just try the gental warming of the opamps by resistor and see if there is any benefit, only tyring because i think it may be something not tried ?
Martin is correct. Its not the heat that makes it sound better. Its the capacitors settling down after switch on (all the leakage currents settle down and become stable).
I leave all my amps and cd player on permanently as it makes such a difference.
Also leaving switched on miminises the stress components get when switched on.
Heat actually as a detrimental effect on components so the cooler they run the better.
Brent
I leave all my amps and cd player on permanently as it makes such a difference.
Also leaving switched on miminises the stress components get when switched on.
Heat actually as a detrimental effect on components so the cooler they run the better.
Brent
ImSparticus said:Yeh Brent it is indeed the hifi choice freebie, I read a few reviews on here i think, too many people recommended the Isotek soundtracks for burn in and demag, there is even a pretty cool cone exerciser on a seriously low frequency, i reckon nearing dc lol.
I use it after anything i do, and run some tracks on sunday mornings to demag, ummmmm, i cant help but think it sounds goooood afterwards lol. Its good for identifying speaker rattles without damaging your inner ear also
Brent check your PM.
dennis
I have checked and cheers 😉
Brent