poynton said:
As always. But i didn't tonight, like i though i would
All of those were fine. I put u140 back in with its jumper, and used some of my standard silver plated copper wire to bridge back u139.
What exactly is a dry joint, and do i have to remove all the old solder and apply new stuff. I managed to steal some leaded solder from a lab at uni, so im using that at the moment as it is great to work with.
And i have just removed the clock now and will clean up the joints and resolder on new wire asap.
I might be tempted to send it to you mate, as i have far too much work to do, rather than trying to fix this, but il see how it goes
allan. When i power up the player, the clock psu voltage jumps straight up to its value of 9.8V, and there is no delay. Only thing is that i couldnt get a reading for the clock output. it just kept jumping from a low value to a negative value off the scale (like a pulse). i guess thats the oscillating part of the clock ?
silly silly cdp
thanks
adfinni said:
As always. But i didn't tonight, like i though i would
All of those were fine. I put u140 back in with its jumper, and used some of my standard silver plated copper wire to bridge back u139.
What exactly is a dry joint, and do i have to remove all the old solder and apply new stuff. I managed to steal some leaded solder from a lab at uni, so im using that at the moment as it is great to work with.
And i have just removed the clock now and will clean up the joints and resolder on new wire asap.
I might be tempted to send it to you mate, as i have far too much work to do, rather than trying to fix this, but il see how it goes
allan. When i power up the player, the clock psu voltage jumps straight up to its value of 9.8V, and there is no delay. Only thing is that i couldnt get a reading for the clock output. it just kept jumping from a low value to a negative value off the scale (like a pulse). i guess thats the oscillating part of the clock ?
silly silly cdp
thanks
dry joint
solder joints should be shiny, (look wet)
if dull and crows-feet(cracks) maybe bad joint
clock supply should be +5v
are you using a tent clock module and the 8 pin socket?
if so, unplug the clock
pin 8 should be +5v appox on the socket
referenced to grd
then switch off player leave for a few minutes and then plug in clock
ps tent clock is dot is pin 1, first "T" of TENT is pin 8
sometimes it is best to remove old solder.
if you have a big bubble of solder then its too much
allan
adfinni said:
Is it electrical solder?
Maybe a visit to your local Maplin's for a small tube of solder and a roll of solder wick is called for.
The joints around the +-10v supply look 'dry' in your photos.
I use Meths on a cotton bud to clean up before and after soldering - the above shop sells solvent cleaner N69AN or N64AN
Andy
poynton said:
Hey andy.
All of those voltages listed above were fine. If the silver plated copper wire i use ideally needs silver solder, then would it be better for me to use cat5 cable instead with my standard leaded solder.
One thing, could the removal of u139/140 then the switching on of the player caused some damage, as that was the first thing i did about a week ago whilst i was strengthening my chassis. I didn't put those two back in until the other day?
thanks
adfinni said:
Hi.
In your previouspost, you gave the voltage for Q105, pins 9-16, which were low [7v]. The voltage either side of R128 should be around -12v, the same as pins 9-16. If they are different, it indicates a fault between R128 and Q105.(which is impossible given the distance. So your original voltages would seem to be in error
Yes
Q105 is the driver for the sled and the laser.
U139 feeds the drive signal - removing it would give +5v on the input causing the sled to move to one extreme.
However, removing U140 disconnects the sled from the drive [leaving the feedback loop intact] which would mean that the sled would not move [no drive].
The black blobs on the attached show the position of the links.
What worries me is :-
you said with the links removed the sled went to one end.
with them replaced, it went to the other end.
The voltages around the chip are wrong.
Recheck the voltages around the chip [you can disconnect the cdm] should be as per diagram.
Clean up soldering.
Andy
Attachments
OK, tonight I performed the next steps in modding my cd67se.
I already removed the output caps and muting trannies and damped the chasis with bitumen.
* Replaced the opamps with AD826's.
* Bypassed HDAM.
My first impression is that the bass is much deeper now. Overall impression is that the "stage" is bigger.
Only downside is that the highs have become harder, maybe that has to do with the AD826'S?
I already removed the output caps and muting trannies and damped the chasis with bitumen.
* Replaced the opamps with AD826's.
* Bypassed HDAM.
My first impression is that the bass is much deeper now. Overall impression is that the "stage" is bigger.
Only downside is that the highs have become harder, maybe that has to do with the AD826'S?
the AD8620's are on it's way, btw some people complain that the ad8620 sound "thin".
I heard about decoupling opamps from pin 4 to 8, what value would you recommend?
Anyway the cd67se sounds already way better then before I started the mods.
Tent clock is also ordered. After that i will play with some decoupling of caps and that is probably as far as i go.
I heard about decoupling opamps from pin 4 to 8, what value would you recommend?
Anyway the cd67se sounds already way better then before I started the mods.
Tent clock is also ordered. After that i will play with some decoupling of caps and that is probably as far as i go.
gy21 said:
I agree with that, a bit. It sounds WAY better compared to the standard 2114's, no doubt about that, it's a very nice sounding opamp. But maybe a dual one is a bit too much. So I tried a single AD8610 after the DAC, and a different one in the filter (using an adapter), like OPA132 or OPA627. It takes away a bit of that "thin" edge.
I use a 220n PPS SMD cap most of the times. But you can use a good small electrolytic (BG) if you have that around. Or do the DeLuxe version and decouple from + and - to 0V.
Regards,
Ray.
ray
this site has some usful info on opamps
also bias to class A
http://tangentsoft.net/audio/opamps.html
allan
this site has some usful info on opamps
also bias to class A
http://tangentsoft.net/audio/opamps.html
allan