The player was just fine out of the box. Then he started messing around with it... 😀 😉
The signs of a dead mech are: no sound.
No, just kidding, i'm being mean now... 😀. It could be the mech, but have you already checked the obvious things, like the ribbon cable, wiring and power supply voltages? Heads up Matthieu, i'm sure it will sing again!
Ray
The signs of a dead mech are: no sound.
No, just kidding, i'm being mean now... 😀. It could be the mech, but have you already checked the obvious things, like the ribbon cable, wiring and power supply voltages? Heads up Matthieu, i'm sure it will sing again!
Ray
Hi Shepp,
very kind but I think the evil forces try to shoot me down... I also had a free player, a CD951, wich was great... but has proven dead mech... only in my home :'(
Yesterday evening, fully warmed, some TOC not even read, some fine but then no way to read a track (some sled seeking but fault) or some sudden stop in playback. Track access erratic from lighting fast (as fast as regulated drivers do), to sled lost and can't find....
Error code in diag was 10,
As for news, when cold the new 10.5V TX (5V regs one) is dead silent, buzzes only when warm to hot.
The player in today's mood:
In diagnotsic mode,
P1 "tick tick tick" a clean sequence,
P2 and then turntable spins nicely,
P3 the turn table spins by sequences, maybe pules of 1 sec, the sled goes. Is that turntable spinning by pulses normal?
When leave the sled fully out, power off the player, then on, it travels fine but 2 very slight noises like mechanical hold, very slight... I guess it should be smooth like peach's skin...
Just played one disc, only that dagnostic tests and some "catch the track" issuses.
More a new TX (powering Decoder and DAC) or a mech issue to you guys?
I swear this is the end of my xp if I end with 2 dead players!
Matthieu, fried.
Edit:
Hi Ray,
ribbon replaced, voltages OK but a slight voltage drop (fast, hard to check with my DMM) on P3 with the start of the truntable, by pulses.
Look at the VAM12 reliability table, scaring! 1% won't go over 500H, 10% over 5000...
very kind but I think the evil forces try to shoot me down... I also had a free player, a CD951, wich was great... but has proven dead mech... only in my home :'(
Yesterday evening, fully warmed, some TOC not even read, some fine but then no way to read a track (some sled seeking but fault) or some sudden stop in playback. Track access erratic from lighting fast (as fast as regulated drivers do), to sled lost and can't find....
Error code in diag was 10,
As for news, when cold the new 10.5V TX (5V regs one) is dead silent, buzzes only when warm to hot.
The player in today's mood:
In diagnotsic mode,
P1 "tick tick tick" a clean sequence,
P2 and then turntable spins nicely,
P3 the turn table spins by sequences, maybe pules of 1 sec, the sled goes. Is that turntable spinning by pulses normal?
When leave the sled fully out, power off the player, then on, it travels fine but 2 very slight noises like mechanical hold, very slight... I guess it should be smooth like peach's skin...
Just played one disc, only that dagnostic tests and some "catch the track" issuses.
More a new TX (powering Decoder and DAC) or a mech issue to you guys?
I swear this is the end of my xp if I end with 2 dead players!
Matthieu, fried.
Edit:
Hi Ray,
ribbon replaced, voltages OK but a slight voltage drop (fast, hard to check with my DMM) on P3 with the start of the truntable, by pulses.
Look at the VAM12 reliability table, scaring! 1% won't go over 500H, 10% over 5000...
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As everybody should know by now, I'm a fake DIY'er! I let others do the hard work and sit back and enjoy it (or not, as is the case with breaking-in new parts) The bad part is that it costs a lot; The good part is not having to worry about it, since it always works! I feel for you. There's a good reason not to ever open the box! but then we would just be consumers and not cutting-edge loveable freaks (I use the royal "we" with caution and freaks is a term of endearment)
If by mech you mean laser, in my experience they almost never die suddenly. First signs are that odd cds don't play properly (or at all) or read TOC while most others do. That situation generally gets worse until more don't play than do.
Of course that's just normal failure, sticking 240v through the laser will probably cause a more catastrophic failure.
Regards
Pete
Hi Pete,
in fact it's not sudden, as I've checked the ribbon, cleaned the sled rail slightly, and yesterday it played flawlessly, I've tried to stress it with many calls of tracks like 1 to 10 then 3 to 9 or such... sometimes it's a bit slower to stop and play and I can here a "wheewhee". But played nicely... strange... anyway, a CDM12 can't be that new!
in fact it's not sudden, as I've checked the ribbon, cleaned the sled rail slightly, and yesterday it played flawlessly, I've tried to stress it with many calls of tracks like 1 to 10 then 3 to 9 or such... sometimes it's a bit slower to stop and play and I can here a "wheewhee". But played nicely... strange... anyway, a CDM12 can't be that new!
It could be something like a PCB track that's making poor contact. I had a player with a defective 1nF cap once (the one in the HF signal-line). If it was playing, it worked fine, but sometimes it couldn't find the track when skipping. The decoder is quite sensitive to power supplies by the way, I tried separating some PSU pins once, and it didn't like it at all. If you have separate regulators there, that could be it.
Ray
Ray
Yes I have separate regs here! And yes if I had to redo it I'll go for a single low noise reg for the whole IC.
I can't find that cap, can you point it Ray?
... and bought this new player to fit parts in! 🙁
All that means that player is not finished! Never ending "fun"! OMG...
Just opened the player for a full mech cleaning: all TX's irons are very hot, hotter it will burn me and it's near to be very hard to keep the finger on.
None of my regs get that hot!
Defo need to try DC blocking, and may explain the tube amp physical buzzing and humm in speakers. f!
None of my regs get that hot!
Defo need to try DC blocking, and may explain the tube amp physical buzzing and humm in speakers. f!
That C was C505.
Are you shure you don't have an other problem, because those TX getting that hot is not normal.
Maybe something's drawing too much current?
Ray
Are you shure you don't have an other problem, because those TX getting that hot is not normal.
Maybe something's drawing too much current?
Ray
Maybe Ray,
maybe that add to bad main.
The factory's TX in the player have the 4x regulators, 317 & 337, at the DOS. Beside that the Servo regulators, 317 & 337, wich are also hot. This TX is hot, but as linked to the chassis a part of heat goes away, it's a bit less hot than other TX, just a bit.
That new TX for my 5Vs, 4 rectifiers, 2x 2200µF ZL, 317 for HF amp and Decoder digital and analog, a Jung Super Reg for the DAC. This one was rated 7.5VA, 12VDC with no load and 10.6V when regs are on it. (TX all show less when the load is on, I guess it's normal, isn't it?). It's buzzing like hell when hot. And after a while it's hot as hell, as the Flea's TX.
The Flea's TX, with a sober OPA227... the TX is that one:
CLAIRTRONIC|10-5642|TRANSFORMER, 1.6VA, 2X115V, 2X9V | Farnell France
4 rectifiers, 1000µF ZL, at DMM shows 19.6V DC under duty, then a 7818 and here I feed the Flea... and a LT1086CT5 for a FlipFlop, Servo's clock. This is maybe too much, heat at the reg means power... better to take power from my 10.6V 7.5VA PSU?
Do they seem under-rated? If 7.5VA is not enough for 2 ICs then I need a TX bigger than the original one!
Don't know how to do as they all get hot... And I remember my very first CD53 was also very hot, I should find my first posts. And it had no DOS but just a PSU for a Flea... main again?
Other examples:
the very same TX in the CD40, wich shows 30V DC, as the one for the AudioGD... 30V DC? That's odd... anyway, a 7824 and here I go with a Flea, just the Flea. It's very hot again.
The TX in my Alarm Clock, only displaying time, no need of 400VA: hot!
No need to talk of the washing machine making my amp humm like hell at each program step!
The only thing I know about my main: can go as low as 199V (!) and as high as 228, mainly 224/226.
Time to go to bed!
Matthieu
maybe that add to bad main.
The factory's TX in the player have the 4x regulators, 317 & 337, at the DOS. Beside that the Servo regulators, 317 & 337, wich are also hot. This TX is hot, but as linked to the chassis a part of heat goes away, it's a bit less hot than other TX, just a bit.
That new TX for my 5Vs, 4 rectifiers, 2x 2200µF ZL, 317 for HF amp and Decoder digital and analog, a Jung Super Reg for the DAC. This one was rated 7.5VA, 12VDC with no load and 10.6V when regs are on it. (TX all show less when the load is on, I guess it's normal, isn't it?). It's buzzing like hell when hot. And after a while it's hot as hell, as the Flea's TX.
The Flea's TX, with a sober OPA227... the TX is that one:
CLAIRTRONIC|10-5642|TRANSFORMER, 1.6VA, 2X115V, 2X9V | Farnell France
4 rectifiers, 1000µF ZL, at DMM shows 19.6V DC under duty, then a 7818 and here I feed the Flea... and a LT1086CT5 for a FlipFlop, Servo's clock. This is maybe too much, heat at the reg means power... better to take power from my 10.6V 7.5VA PSU?
Do they seem under-rated? If 7.5VA is not enough for 2 ICs then I need a TX bigger than the original one!
Don't know how to do as they all get hot... And I remember my very first CD53 was also very hot, I should find my first posts. And it had no DOS but just a PSU for a Flea... main again?
Other examples:
the very same TX in the CD40, wich shows 30V DC, as the one for the AudioGD... 30V DC? That's odd... anyway, a 7824 and here I go with a Flea, just the Flea. It's very hot again.
The TX in my Alarm Clock, only displaying time, no need of 400VA: hot!
No need to talk of the washing machine making my amp humm like hell at each program step!
The only thing I know about my main: can go as low as 199V (!) and as high as 228, mainly 224/226.
Time to go to bed!
Matthieu
Yes, it's normal the voltage sags under load. But 7,5VA should be more than plenty for this. What is the rated secondary voltage of that TX? You can tell a tranny is overloaded if the actual AC voltage drops below the rated voltage. I always keep a factor 1.5 margin for the current or power it has to supply.
The voltage of the Flea TX is a bit low, a 7818 likes a minimum of 20...20,5V input. It's probably because your mains voltage is rather low and the tranny is rated for 230V.
I'd like to see your mains voltage on a scope, could be interesting... And you should try the DC blocker, maybe that will give some relief to your trannys.
Ray
The voltage of the Flea TX is a bit low, a 7818 likes a minimum of 20...20,5V input. It's probably because your mains voltage is rather low and the tranny is rated for 230V.
I'd like to see your mains voltage on a scope, could be interesting... And you should try the DC blocker, maybe that will give some relief to your trannys.
Ray
Hi Ray,
I'd like to see it too!
Will try that DC blocker and remove the 7818, maybe pick 12V at the Flea's 7812 instead of raw 19V for the LT1086.
EDF killed my TDA1541A S1! Revenge!
I would leave the 7812 exclusively for the Flea. Any other stuff connected there might introduce noise. A better solution is a tranny with a bit higher output voltage, and maybe a 3.2VA type.
What's EDF by the way? 😕
What's EDF by the way? 😕
OK So I'll feed the FlipFlop with the 10V PSU until I find a better TX.
EDF is Electricité De France 😉
EDF is Electricité De France 😉
Oh, oké 😀
I'm lucky the mains is very stable around here. My house is a little over 10 years old, so the whole grid is relatively new. It's also quite solid, because everybody is cooking electrically (we have a nice induction stove). This district doesn't have household gas, and our houses and water are heated by a small energy plant (see piccy), I believe it's called district heating. The cooling water of the generator runs through a local heat-exchanger.
Ray
I'm lucky the mains is very stable around here. My house is a little over 10 years old, so the whole grid is relatively new. It's also quite solid, because everybody is cooking electrically (we have a nice induction stove). This district doesn't have household gas, and our houses and water are heated by a small energy plant (see piccy), I believe it's called district heating. The cooling water of the generator runs through a local heat-exchanger.
Ray
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Hi Ray
Looks like you live in a previleged place (energy wise)... How thoes the power plant work ? You refer to a cooling system... is it atomic ?
Looks like you live in a previleged place (energy wise)... How thoes the power plant work ? You refer to a cooling system... is it atomic ?
It's lovely, just missing the windows at that castle! And of course the princess calling for help at last floor's window...
As Ricardo it can be nice to know how does it work, maybe a steam engine like our... nuclear power plants! Good old steam...
I have to run a wire from your kindgom to my house... wich a bit more than 10yo: dated 1880... !
Ricardo, didn't you had a track access issue related to the driver IC related? What were the symptoms? Even if since I've cleaned all it works fine... I've cleaned the Mooly way, including unglueing the laser, no problem.
Ray, that 2x 9V linked powering the Flea, with its 19.6V then 7818... with the FlipFlop removed it's 30V DC! So the 7818 is still in...
As Ricardo it can be nice to know how does it work, maybe a steam engine like our... nuclear power plants! Good old steam...
I have to run a wire from your kindgom to my house... wich a bit more than 10yo: dated 1880... !
Ricardo, didn't you had a track access issue related to the driver IC related? What were the symptoms? Even if since I've cleaned all it works fine... I've cleaned the Mooly way, including unglueing the laser, no problem.
Ray, that 2x 9V linked powering the Flea, with its 19.6V then 7818... with the FlipFlop removed it's 30V DC! So the 7818 is still in...
I fried one of the drivers once 🙂
I do not remenber the exact symptoms but it did not read any disc.
More recently I fried one TX (the one feeding the decoder) and the player spinned discs at such high speed that they even came out of the drawer still spinning 🙂
In this case I did not have a clue and it was you who promptly gave me the tip pointing to the decoder psu... 🙂
I do not remenber the exact symptoms but it did not read any disc.
More recently I fried one TX (the one feeding the decoder) and the player spinned discs at such high speed that they even came out of the drawer still spinning 🙂
In this case I did not have a clue and it was you who promptly gave me the tip pointing to the decoder psu... 🙂
No, it's not atomic 😀. It's basically a big Caterpillar gas engine coupled to a generator. The electricity is considered a 'byproduct' in this case. The engine needs cooling, and that hot water (~70 to 80 deg. C) is running through big isolated pipes under the houses (about 2200 in this area). Every household has a GJ meter for registering the amount of energy you use.
The whole district is very 'green' indeed, the newer area next to where I live is called 'City of the Sun' and is about self-sustaining regarding electricity. Almost every house is covered with solar panels. Nice view on Google Maps 😀.
No beautiful princess... 😛. But it does look like a small glass castle indeed. Thank goodness they made something nice out of it, instead of some concrete bunker. I had a tour there once, when it was just opened, it very nice and technical inside 😀.
That's a bit odd, looks like the flipflop is a bit power-hungry! But then again, the small tranny is only calculated for one Flea.
Ray
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