RCruz said:
Hi Ricardo
Yes increase the uF of those caps, especially the +ve one. 4700uF is usually good enough for the negative rail. A good stable voltage on this rail helps with bass and overall timing.
Measure the voltage on those rails and you will see it dips. Also yours may have some resistors fitted that were removed on the 63SE and KI versions. Short out R149 R150 R127 R128 as this helps with current delivery to the driver chips.
Brent
Hi guys,
I was wondring if there was any way if the standard VAM (which is in my 63SE, the original needed renewing) transport mechanism can be replaced with the professional grade Philips CDM mechanism/transport? I know the microcontroller interfaces are different and there may need to be other modifications, but is it a possibilty?
Thanks
Gareth
P.S. I hope my posting is allowed this time!! And not deleted like yesterdays was! Ho hum
I was wondring if there was any way if the standard VAM (which is in my 63SE, the original needed renewing) transport mechanism can be replaced with the professional grade Philips CDM mechanism/transport? I know the microcontroller interfaces are different and there may need to be other modifications, but is it a possibilty?
Thanks
Gareth
P.S. I hope my posting is allowed this time!! And not deleted like yesterdays was! Ho hum
Yeah, I have been thinking of this upgrade for quite a while but because I come from an Electrical as opposed to Electronic background I feel I lack a little confidence.
Theoretically it is possible, I would have thought, but I wanted to pose the question to the people who know more in-case someone else out there had thought of it or even tried it.
Food for thought I think because the Philips pro is one hell of a nice piece of kit. I have even thought of building a new machine around this mechanism and seing how it goes, but again my lack of confidence hinders forward movement.
If anybody out there has any ideas then please let us know!!
Thanks
Gareth
P.S. How exactly do I by-pass the HDAM module on my CD63SE? From where (exactly) and to where (exactly do I make the connections and which compoments do I need to remove. My op-amps are either LM4562's or OP27's. One more question, is there a PCB available onto which i can build my 16.9344Mhz clock? Or will I have to point-to-point wire it and hope for the best. BY the way...unfortunately I do not have an oscilloscope to check waveform.
Please advise guys, thanks in advance
Theoretically it is possible, I would have thought, but I wanted to pose the question to the people who know more in-case someone else out there had thought of it or even tried it.
Food for thought I think because the Philips pro is one hell of a nice piece of kit. I have even thought of building a new machine around this mechanism and seing how it goes, but again my lack of confidence hinders forward movement.
If anybody out there has any ideas then please let us know!!
Thanks
Gareth
P.S. How exactly do I by-pass the HDAM module on my CD63SE? From where (exactly) and to where (exactly do I make the connections and which compoments do I need to remove. My op-amps are either LM4562's or OP27's. One more question, is there a PCB available onto which i can build my 16.9344Mhz clock? Or will I have to point-to-point wire it and hope for the best. BY the way...unfortunately I do not have an oscilloscope to check waveform.
Please advise guys, thanks in advance
Gareth,
Take the signal from R618 (right) and R617 (left) and wire it directly to the output RCAs... assuming you're comfortable with bypassing the muting transistors and DC blocking capacitors. In most applications these are simply not needed. The gain in transparency is substantial, but expect it to sound a bit lean.
Some people have p2p wired clocks, but you don't seem to have said which clock circuit this is..
Simon
Take the signal from R618 (right) and R617 (left) and wire it directly to the output RCAs... assuming you're comfortable with bypassing the muting transistors and DC blocking capacitors. In most applications these are simply not needed. The gain in transparency is substantial, but expect it to sound a bit lean.
Some people have p2p wired clocks, but you don't seem to have said which clock circuit this is..
Simon
SimontY said:
Cheers Si,
That sounds pretty straight forward, after wiring from R's 617 and 618 I can then remove what is inside the HDFAms too, can I?
Is the py-passing of the muting transistors of any major concern, sound-wise? I had read that in-betwen songs on the disc i may hear a little noise but i can live with that if it makes the op-amp upgrade even more so.
As to the clock, I have a good electronics book at home, written by Ray/Roy Marsden. In it he suggests a number of clock/oscillator circuits and I was hoping to re-use the existing 16.9344MHz crystal as the basis of this. Do you have any ideas or suggestions? I am confident with a soldering iron and can read circuit diagrams. I have a signal generator but as of yet I have not managed to buy myself an oscilloscope.
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
Gareth
P.S. Is it a square-wave output or sine-wave or triangle or what? I am not even sure what shape the clock signal needs to be. I would have thought square but i could be wrong. Again, thanks!!
You can harvest the nice FETs and junk parts under there, no problem. Some people have used the cans elsewhere 
Another thing you could do is disconnect the +-12V lines from the HDAM.
I heard no noises after removing the muting transistors on mine - most players don't make noises between tracks, but I think some have heard the odd noise. Of course there'll be a thump on power on/off.
My electronics knowledge doesn't stretch to clocks, though I'm sure someone else can chime in there. I used a Sercal C1 (on DAC) and D1 (for the servo reclocking) and was immensely happy.
Simon
Another thing you could do is disconnect the +-12V lines from the HDAM.
I heard no noises after removing the muting transistors on mine - most players don't make noises between tracks, but I think some have heard the odd noise. Of course there'll be a thump on power on/off.
My electronics knowledge doesn't stretch to clocks, though I'm sure someone else can chime in there. I used a Sercal C1 (on DAC) and D1 (for the servo reclocking) and was immensely happy.
Simon
Best to remove R651 652 653 654 and short out R613 614 615 616. Also remember to lift U210 U214 and remove C655 656 657 658.
Xtals are a sinewave, and basically the dacs input triggers off the +/- of the sines peaks.
Also if you are going to build your own clock you are better off buying a half decent oscillator @ 16.9Mhz. Basically this requires a V input a gnd connection and a clock output. Supply it with a nice psu and its own tx if you can. Base the build of the circuits psu around what you have on those circuit diagrams.
Brent
Xtals are a sinewave, and basically the dacs input triggers off the +/- of the sines peaks.
Also if you are going to build your own clock you are better off buying a half decent oscillator @ 16.9Mhz. Basically this requires a V input a gnd connection and a clock output. Supply it with a nice psu and its own tx if you can. Base the build of the circuits psu around what you have on those circuit diagrams.
Brent
Cheers Simon and Brent. That joke was timeless Simon (it get's worse ).
OK. so what do you mean when you say 'Lift' U210 and 214 ? Remove from circuit??? Also When you say short out R'613 through 616, to where do i short them? That may be a stupid question to you but I don't want to wipe out my machine after all the mod's i have so far successfully achieved.
In the future I do hope to have seperate supplies for the analogue, digital and clock departments as I have some new tx at home.
If I can manage to design a clock based on what i have sen in this book I mentioned could I post it here for your suggestions/approval???
Thanks again
Gareth
).OK. so what do you mean when you say 'Lift' U210 and 214 ? Remove from circuit??? Also When you say short out R'613 through 616, to where do i short them? That may be a stupid question to you but I don't want to wipe out my machine after all the mod's i have so far successfully achieved.
In the future I do hope to have seperate supplies for the analogue, digital and clock departments as I have some new tx at home.
If I can manage to design a clock based on what i have sen in this book I mentioned could I post it here for your suggestions/approval???
Thanks again
Gareth
It would be more on-topic than most posts here.
The joke was accidental lol
By short he means just that, replacing the resistor with a solder blob or wire link. There are some resistors in the power rails, some of which I believe act as fuses, and some as a filter circuit. They are detrimental to performance IMO.
The joke was accidental lol
By short he means just that, replacing the resistor with a solder blob or wire link. There are some resistors in the power rails, some of which I believe act as fuses, and some as a filter circuit. They are detrimental to performance IMO.
Hi Guys
After killing my 67 i have a 63 on its way, finally!
Brent you stated:
Best to remove R651 652 653 654 and short out R613 614 615 616. Also remember to lift U210 U214
On the 67 i removed R651-654 but used EPOCS 100uH/1R7 at 613-616 and did not remove U210 or 214
I also left all HDAM comps in place (lazyness) and p2p wired from U216 to C658 and U217 to C657 leaving muting in place.
This time should i direct wire to new rca's? Would i need a cap of some sort for line voltage?
Simon you stated to replace "horrible orange blobs" with 470pf 1% 630v from farnell would they be the 12 around opamps?
Is that ok as a stand alone mod? Or part of the Bessel filter?
Looking forward to BGs and Tin Hats this time
Thanks all Ian
After killing my 67 i have a 63 on its way, finally!
Brent you stated:
Best to remove R651 652 653 654 and short out R613 614 615 616. Also remember to lift U210 U214
On the 67 i removed R651-654 but used EPOCS 100uH/1R7 at 613-616 and did not remove U210 or 214
I also left all HDAM comps in place (lazyness) and p2p wired from U216 to C658 and U217 to C657 leaving muting in place.
This time should i direct wire to new rca's? Would i need a cap of some sort for line voltage?
Simon you stated to replace "horrible orange blobs" with 470pf 1% 630v from farnell would they be the 12 around opamps?
Is that ok as a stand alone mod? Or part of the Bessel filter?
Looking forward to BGs and Tin Hats this time
Thanks all Ian
Just going a little of topic (again ) but you maybe interested.
I have a SA-7S1 in for upgrades at work. This thing is a beast, the build quality is amazing and to be fair so is the sound. It's that good I had to take it home to listen to what it could do and was very impressed. It uses 2x NPC SM5866 dacs.
The front panel where it curves round is 35mm thick machined aluminium!!!
SEE SOME PICS HERE
The pictures do not do it justice. I will get some better pics later
Brent
) but you maybe interested.I have a SA-7S1 in for upgrades at work. This thing is a beast, the build quality is amazing and to be fair so is the sound. It's that good I had to take it home to listen to what it could do and was very impressed. It uses 2x NPC SM5866 dacs.
The front panel where it curves round is 35mm thick machined aluminium!!!
SEE SOME PICS HERE
The pictures do not do it justice. I will get some better pics later
Brent
Well taking it home revealed how good it was, tonally very very similar to mine. Only finest details and lowest basses let it down compared to mine which of course put a huge smile on my face to see what level the 63 was at.
I do think it will better mine once i've upgraded it. I would happily own one of these players.
Brent
I do think it will better mine once i've upgraded it. I would happily own one of these players.
Brent
It costs approx £6000. It's the only standard player i've been impressed by. Of course it's not worth it when we can upgrade our players to that level for less cost. But for the average man in the street who can afford a large amount on a cd player then yes it is worth it compared to what i've heard from other cd players.
It is very very analogue in sound, nothing out of place and very low distortion. You could listen for hours & hours with no fatigue. Marantz do know how to build a top cd player.
Brent
It is very very analogue in sound, nothing out of place and very low distortion. You could listen for hours & hours with no fatigue. Marantz do know how to build a top cd player.
Brent