I had a problem like this once, but I can't remember how it was cured. It might have been when I added the discrete output stage.
What you might like to try is playing a CD test track featuring a 0dB (full scale) 1khz sine wave and measuring the output of the left and right using your multimeter set to AC volts.
This might provide some useful checking.
Simon
What you might like to try is playing a CD test track featuring a 0dB (full scale) 1khz sine wave and measuring the output of the left and right using your multimeter set to AC volts.
This might provide some useful checking.
Simon
Oh I have this CD test with many tracks, is the one you said is on it Simon? I play in loop track 33 and check AC on both channel?
http://virtuelvis.com/archives/2004/09/audio-test-cd
Brent It's pure Ray's stuff, many resistors are SMD under the PCB
http://virtuelvis.com/archives/2004/09/audio-test-cd
Brent It's pure Ray's stuff, many resistors are SMD under the PCB
RCruz said:
Love your ATC´s..... why do you have three amps ?
I know.... I am waiting for some €€€ input.
I will need a Brent reg for DAC analog, a clock for the dac and a divider for the servo clock.
Ricardo
Your sound quality will pretty much double!
lol @ his amps. They're for home cinema. The Yamaha at the bottom is used as a processor only.
Simon
SimontY said:
Done!
But it's changing on the same channel, don't know why. Anyway both channel are around 5,5V. I've try to play some track at very low level: some frequency are on one side more, some other on the other one... my room is all but symetrical... maybe my headphone is crazy also?
I've moved my speakers again, crossed channels on amp: quite stable... It seems it's in my head... need new audio nerves...
I have a modified CD63 that I am no longer using. I modded it c/o the information on this thread. Details of the mods are here: http://www.craigtone.com/audio/CD63/
The CD player has a few issues that need resolved, but I am sure someone here will be more than capable of fixing it.
1. The display is not working. When I stripped the motherboard, I got too ambitious and removed the transistors that bias the VFD.
2. The player will play a CD for a few minutes and then start to fade volume and static starts. I'm assuming a rail is breaking down somewhere.
The player includes all mods listed in the above website, includes original remote and in case the new person wants it, I also have all service manuals, etc. on CD.
So, if anyone here is interested, drop me a line at: craigtone at centurytel dot net
The CD player has a few issues that need resolved, but I am sure someone here will be more than capable of fixing it.
1. The display is not working. When I stripped the motherboard, I got too ambitious and removed the transistors that bias the VFD.
2. The player will play a CD for a few minutes and then start to fade volume and static starts. I'm assuming a rail is breaking down somewhere.
The player includes all mods listed in the above website, includes original remote and in case the new person wants it, I also have all service manuals, etc. on CD.
So, if anyone here is interested, drop me a line at: craigtone at centurytel dot net
RCruz said:
Love your ATC´s..... why do you have three amps ?
I know.... I am waiting for some €€€ input.
I will need a Brent reg for DAC analog, a clock for the dac and a divider for the servo clock.
Ricardo
Thanks Ricardo
The ATC are running of a very modified Marantz PM66KI - going through the basics it has two tx , 2x silmic 22,000uF caps , schottky bridge, lots of BG caps and some silver mica, custom heat sinks with idle voltage running at 250mA, an expensive Nobel pot, solid silver rca + lots of small mods.
The rest of the amps are for centre and rear channel with the bottom amp as the processor (as simon said). The centre amp is modded quite a bit too (similar to main amp) and this runs the new ATC C3 centre speaker (30Kg lol) with left channel running bass/mids with left channel running treble in a bi-amp stylee. The Yamaha will be undergoing some major mods soon which involve a full cap upgrade in the psu, some spowers and bg + a C1 clock for digital processing and dedicated psu along with 12x lm4562. That should lift the quality a few levels lol.
Brent
craigtone said:
Well LOL
Firstly you need to replace the display stuff.
Plays then fades off, I have repaired thousands of these players (no bull) and never heard of that before. Yes something is breaking down but what!!!
Get your display working first, you never know it may have a knock on effect.
I have looked at your mods and I think your conclusion was a bit premature.I also know why you said what you did considering the limited things you have done. Don't get me wrong you have done things in a good order and well and I agree they wont compete with a decent vinyl player.
Another thing
you said "Others claim the LM4562 is transparent and I agree 100%! But, almost too transparent for my taste. I prefer a little warmth and will audition the other op-amp choices and make a choice later. "I am a discrete lover but if I had to use an opamp it would be the LM4562, and I can see why you have no warmth. The Pana FC caps are very clinical to me, and yes the opamp is open. You need BG with this opamp for a very good sound.
Keep with this player and you will love it
Brent
rowemeister said:
I am not selling the player because it is acting up ... LOL!
I am selling the player because I have too much audio equipment laying around. I am currently running an NAD C521BEE with OPA627's on Brown Dogs. While the sound is not as detailed as the CD63, I prefer the NAD for the natural, more "musical" sound it eminates.
My next upgrade will be a Rega Saturn!
Hi Brentrowemeister said:
With my new setup (30vatx + 20.000ufMuse + hexfreds for the LM4562 with BG, dedicated tx for the servo sregs), I get loads of detail and a never heard before bass, but the sound is not very "musical"... Sounds like a heavy high end machine without the control.
It seems to need some pacing and that is why I am thinking about the clock.
Now, for the dac analog sreg... I am using a 317 with a capacitor multiplier (this one built using a 220uF BG) and two leds.
It is beeing fed by the stock tx. (power comes from U161 "output of C813")
Should I expect a big improvement with a decent sreg even without a dedicated psu ?
If not, how powerfull must be the tx for this purpose ... 15va ?
Note: Your systems seems really über..... enlightening.
Regards
Ricardo
Hi Ricardo
Thanks for your comments on my system
The problems you are finding with your sound are 15% down to having no clock and 60% due to the regs you are using/not using. You really do need to fit a SPower or Audiocom type reg. The difference is night and day. The other 25% is down to requiring more psu .
But first to try add the sreg onto the dac ana and yes feed it from the +10/12v from before the standard 5v reg.
Brent
Thanks for your comments on my system
The problems you are finding with your sound are 15% down to having no clock and 60% due to the regs you are using/not using. You really do need to fit a SPower or Audiocom type reg. The difference is night and day. The other 25% is down to requiring more psu
.But first to try add the sreg onto the dac ana and yes feed it from the +10/12v from before the standard 5v reg.
Brent
Hi Brentrowemeister said:
The problems you are finding with your sound are 15% down to having no clock and 60% due to the regs you are using/not using. You really do need to fit a SPower or Audiocom type reg. The difference is night and day. The other 25% is down to requiring more psu
But first to try add the sreg onto the dac ana and yes feed it from the +10/12v from before the standard 5v reg.
I find the Audiocom products very expensive.....
Another alternative seems to be the the Flea from http://www.acoustica.org.uk/ , can I use this one to save costs ?
Maybe the S power regs are the best alternative...
Ricardo
RCruz said:
Yes, you can use the Flea to power the analog (one Flea) and digital (another Flea) supply lines of the DAC, I do. But you have to wait for another run of the PCB's.
BTW, I think it has been covered before - in 2006. What was the designers thinking about when they designed the ground and groundplane ?
There's a starground for digital (under C814) and one for analog (at RCA), but they mess up in the groundplane in top of the PCB. I have just separated agnd and dgnd, easy to do when you have enough power supplies and a discreet board. The DAC is the separation point.
I haven't listened to the mod yet, not enough to give the verdict.
RCruz said:
Hi Brent
I find the Audiocom products very expensive.....
Another alternative seems to be the the Flea from http://www.acoustica.org.uk/ , can I use this one to save costs ?
Maybe the S power regs are the best alternative...
Ricardo
Others on this forum who have used the SPower and the Audiocom regs think the SPower is on par with the Audiocom Invisus regulator. And yes the Audiocom ones are expensive.
Brent
RCruz said:
Ricardo,
I have an S Power on the DAC analogue and LOVE this mod! I also have +/- 15V S Powers on the discrete output and this made a HUGE difference to the sound. I have 2x Audiocom Super Regs, and these live on my C1 clocks (one for each). These work well here.
Without these 5 regs my player would be normal or "good", and with this in mind I can understand why a lot of people on here don't understand how far the player will go. With these regs - DAC analogue, 2 x clocks, 2 x output stage - the sound is sensational.
Things like S Powers don't make as big a difference on op-amps (I have two in my preamp) but they're still worthy of using them. I think this is due to better power supply noise rejection on IC-based op-amps.
Simon