I don't see why not. If you're unsure about it don't do too much at once. Just feed one or two circuits and give it a thorough test. It seems all to easy to get oscillation/noise problems, something I've yet to fully cure in mine!
Simon
Simon
ok thats great news so i can just solder wires to the power switch so power will go to both trannys at the same time, and then just wires to the revelvent bits on the board?
cheers chris
cheers chris
reddish75 said:ok thats great news so i can just solder wires to the power switch so power will go to both trannys at the same time, and then just wires to the revelvent bits on the board?
cheers chris
If that tx is to be mounted externally it will take some work to make it 110% safe, so be careful (don't mean to patronise).
There are a variety of places to mount your new power supplies inside, but remember the DC power lines need to be kept as short as possible.
Simon
it will be mounted on the inside if the back panel with about 1cm gap between the bottom if the pcb which the tx is mounted on and the back panel, for obvious reasons (which is a the part if the 67s main board, lazy? yes but its conveniant and cuts down on desoldering/soldering it back on to things.)and the back panel, for obvious reasons, im guessing the wires will be between 10-15 cm in length will this be ok
Paging Ray...
I'm going to finally build the discrete output stage (on veroboard!).
Questions regarding the 10mH inductors.
Ray, you specify this although you got the code slightly wrong on your parts list😀 . These don't look like the ones you actually used. Did you use Toko originally?
Also, why would one pick that over say this?
Cheers,
Glenn
I'm going to finally build the discrete output stage (on veroboard!).
Questions regarding the 10mH inductors.
Ray, you specify this although you got the code slightly wrong on your parts list😀 . These don't look like the ones you actually used. Did you use Toko originally?
Also, why would one pick that over say this?
Cheers,
Glenn
Another thing, Grandata list the 2SK170, but I don't know if they're BL, GR, V.... grrr I thought this would be easy...
reddish75 said:im guessing the wires will be between 10-15 cm in length will this be ok
I'm sure it will work, but the wire after each regulator should be as short as possible for the best technical performance and sound quality (low impedance etc.)
Glenn2 said:
Wow! I want one too. I might start saving 😀
Simon /enjoying speaker mods 😀
Re: Paging Ray...
Oops, indeed a typo in the partslist. I didn't use the Panasonics because I had a box with 100 pcs. of a comparable type at my disposal, so I could match a few quads of them 🙂
I used the Panas in a prototype by the way, and they work fine. The axial inductors have a higher DC resistance but apart from that they should work fine too. I like the more fancy core of the Panasonics though 😀
Regards,
Ray
Glenn2 said:I'm going to finally build the discrete output stage (on veroboard!).
Questions regarding the 10mH inductors.
Ray, you specify this although you got the code slightly wrong on your parts list😀 . These don't look like the ones you actually used. Did you use Toko originally?
Also, why would one pick that over say this?
Cheers,
Glenn
Oops, indeed a typo in the partslist. I didn't use the Panasonics because I had a box with 100 pcs. of a comparable type at my disposal, so I could match a few quads of them 🙂
I used the Panas in a prototype by the way, and they work fine. The axial inductors have a higher DC resistance but apart from that they should work fine too. I like the more fancy core of the Panasonics though 😀
Regards,
Ray
Glenn2 said:
SimontY said:Wow! I want one too. I might start saving 😀
Simon /enjoying speaker mods 😀
Nice work eh !? Still haven't fitted it in my player though. No time yet... Maybe this weekend. An audiophile friend of mine put his one in his SA8400 and reported stunning results 😀.
Ray
6h5c said:Nice work eh !? Still haven't fitted it in my player though. No time yet... Maybe this weekend. An audiophile friend of mine put his one in his SA8400 and reported stunning results 😀.
Ray
VERY nice Ray! It costs a lot of money to put together something with such nice parts, which is the only reason I'm still using op-amps! Can't wait to hear your output stage in my own home 🙂
Sounds terrific in you-know-who's.
Simon
Re: Re: Paging Ray...
Cheers Ray - the only thing I was worried about was the spec for the Panasonics says 'resonant frequency 10kHz'. The other inductors have this way outside the audio band. The idea of a component in a filter resonating at 10kHz scared me.
There's also the inductor vs choke terminology.
I might plug all the data into switchercad and see if it makes any difference.
Also, do you know what the current draw of your circuit is?
Also, people say great things of the Zapfilter.... it's a shunt-regulated, class A discrete output stage, as is yours. Yours should sound as good if not better as it actually does some proper filtering of those PWM square waves! (I've read that the Zap does not like them much and you have to string RC on its inputs or you get noise
)
6h5c said:
Oops, indeed a typo in the partslist. I didn't use the Panasonics because I had a box with 100 pcs. of a comparable type at my disposal, so I could match a few quads of them 🙂
I used the Panas in a prototype by the way, and they work fine. The axial inductors have a higher DC resistance but apart from that they should work fine too. I like the more fancy core of the Panasonics though 😀
Regards,
Ray
Cheers Ray - the only thing I was worried about was the spec for the Panasonics says 'resonant frequency 10kHz'. The other inductors have this way outside the audio band. The idea of a component in a filter resonating at 10kHz scared me.
There's also the inductor vs choke terminology.
I might plug all the data into switchercad and see if it makes any difference.
Also, do you know what the current draw of your circuit is?
Also, people say great things of the Zapfilter.... it's a shunt-regulated, class A discrete output stage, as is yours. Yours should sound as good if not better as it actually does some proper filtering of those PWM square waves! (I've read that the Zap does not like them much and you have to string RC on its inputs or you get noise

Off-topic, cameras
Ray, as well as your actual work being uber-neat, your photos are stunning. Can you tell us what camera you use? Do you have a macro lens for it as those closeups look perhaps too good for a multipurpose lens?
Two of my friends have the Canon EOS400D, and both want macro lenses, so I'd be interested to know what you're taking these pics with! I need to borrow one of their cameras for my own project pics, rough as they are! 😉
Simon
Ray, as well as your actual work being uber-neat, your photos are stunning. Can you tell us what camera you use? Do you have a macro lens for it as those closeups look perhaps too good for a multipurpose lens?
Two of my friends have the Canon EOS400D, and both want macro lenses, so I'd be interested to know what you're taking these pics with! I need to borrow one of their cameras for my own project pics, rough as they are! 😉
Simon
Re: Off-topic, cameras
He means can it see through smoke? 😀
Just kidding....😀
SimontY said:Ray, as well as your actual work being uber-neat, your photos are stunning. Can you tell us what camera you use? Do you have a macro lens for it as those closeups look perhaps too good for a multipurpose lens?
Two of my friends have the Canon EOS400D, and both want macro lenses, so I'd be interested to know what you're taking these pics with! I need to borrow one of their cameras for my own project pics, rough as they are! 😉
Simon
He means can it see through smoke? 😀
Just kidding....😀
Re: Re: Off-topic, cameras
Haha! To capture the magic smoke at 10MP with full clarity would make quite the photo... and another dead CD63 😉
Glenn2 said:He means can it see through smoke? 😀
Just kidding....😀
Haha! To capture the magic smoke at 10MP with full clarity would make quite the photo... and another dead CD63 😉
ragulators
with the ragulator design if i swap resistor r2 with a 360r resistor and r1 with a 120r resistor will this make the output 5v, plus will i need to change the capasitors help on this would be grateful as im quite new at this
thanks chris
with the ragulator design if i swap resistor r2 with a 360r resistor and r1 with a 120r resistor will this make the output 5v, plus will i need to change the capasitors help on this would be grateful as im quite new at this
thanks chris
Re: ragulators
Yep - that will give you 5v. The capacitor on the adjust pin is fine as it is.
1.25 * (1+ 360/120) = 5V
(That's a simplified equation for low values of resistors.)
reddish75 said:with the ragulator design if i swap resistor r2 with a 360r resistor and r1 with a 120r resistor will this make the output 5v, plus will i need to change the capasitors help on this would be grateful as im quite new at this
thanks chris
Yep - that will give you 5v. The capacitor on the adjust pin is fine as it is.
1.25 * (1+ 360/120) = 5V
(That's a simplified equation for low values of resistors.)
Glenn, might I humbly suggest a new avatar, your namesake Glen Quagmire:
😉
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
😉
Re: Off-topic, cameras
Thanks Simon! If you don't count the shuntregs, it's actually not that expensive to put together. Only the BG's are a bit pricey, the rest is pretty standard. You can always go for standard regs first and upgrade later.
Thanks again
, i'm using a Canon Powershot A520, 4MP camera, so nothing fancy 🙂.
Great camera though, with a good macro-mode. The trick is to make the shot not too close and cut off the fish-eye part of the picture afterwards. I use two strong desklamps to light the subject from two angles. That gives me a shuttertime of about 1/60 second at 50 ISO, good enough to make a sharp, steady picture without flash.
Regards,
Ray
SimontY said:VERY nice Ray! It costs a lot of money to put together something with such nice parts, which is the only reason I'm still using op-amps! Can't wait to hear your output stage in my own home 🙂
Sounds terrific in you-know-who's.
Simon
Thanks Simon! If you don't count the shuntregs, it's actually not that expensive to put together. Only the BG's are a bit pricey, the rest is pretty standard. You can always go for standard regs first and upgrade later.
SimontY said:Ray, as well as your actual work being uber-neat, your photos are stunning. Can you tell us what camera you use? Do you have a macro lens for it as those closeups look perhaps too good for a multipurpose lens?
Two of my friends have the Canon EOS400D, and both want macro lenses, so I'd be interested to know what you're taking these pics with! I need to borrow one of their cameras for my own project pics, rough as they are! 😉
Simon
Thanks again

Great camera though, with a good macro-mode. The trick is to make the shot not too close and cut off the fish-eye part of the picture afterwards. I use two strong desklamps to light the subject from two angles. That gives me a shuttertime of about 1/60 second at 50 ISO, good enough to make a sharp, steady picture without flash.
Regards,
Ray
Wow, I can't believe you're getting such quality off a basic camera! It makes me wonder how much detail a full digital SLR and dedicated macro lens can capture... Ok, very off-topic, again. Sorry.
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