Glenn2 said:Apologies for my posting frenzy folks!
I'm gonna go and lie down for a bit.
Hehe, just come back from the pub and a mate commented on your avatar, saying it was a "QUALITY CHOICE!"
😉
Maybe- you'd have to go through the datasheets and verify all the timings etc. But why bother? There are plenty of 1541-based cd players out there already which are known to work... and the CD63 is no great shakes in terms of mechanical integrity or space available for such major re-working.
Glenn2 said:
They should make a new test card with Jonny Vegas and the Monkey (+ a pint of Guiness)
Brent
shepperd said:
My LM 4562's probably took around 72 hours continuous with a Isotek test CD. Its very subjective so i wouldnt judge them till theyve burnt in, try not to listen either untill your ready to judge.
I now have a Musical Fidelity X-10D modded valve output stage on the output of the CD63ki, and it sounds very nice.
Ive been away for a bit, busy with work, but still reading the forums, just catching up. More mods to do and some more speaker work 🙂
Dennis
martin clark said:
Fair point.
I've got a mint Rotel RCD-855 with brand-new CDM4/19 (or whatever it was) on permanent loan to my mum (who plays a CD about twice a year on it). It's an **** to get the PCB out though.
I still fancy trying a non-OS TDA1543 with passive I/V on the I2S lines. Just for the experience. If it sounds crap so be it!
Thanks Dennis,
So that means 100+ with normal playing. I'm reassured, sort of. Why does all this stuff take so much time? Just when I've run in one piece of gear, another has to go thru the same thing. Seems like I never get to the end. Next up is some occ spkr wire and then a new amp
t'was ever thus?
So that means 100+ with normal playing. I'm reassured, sort of. Why does all this stuff take so much time? Just when I've run in one piece of gear, another has to go thru the same thing. Seems like I never get to the end. Next up is some occ spkr wire and then a new amp
t'was ever thus?
12V PSU
Hi there,
does it make sens to use my toroidal TX, 2x 15V 0.5A, to power the 12V rails, in place of the OEM one : replace the 7812/7912 with 7815/7915, upgrade the following caps Pana FC ( Ray's list )16V for e.g. 25V, then go to other 12V regs just beside the opamps.
Sounds good to you ?
Thanks guys !
And Glenn I've found 2.2uF MKT caps for DC blocking to HPhones lines...
Hi there,
does it make sens to use my toroidal TX, 2x 15V 0.5A, to power the 12V rails, in place of the OEM one : replace the 7812/7912 with 7815/7915, upgrade the following caps Pana FC ( Ray's list )16V for e.g. 25V, then go to other 12V regs just beside the opamps.
Sounds good to you ?
Thanks guys !
And Glenn I've found 2.2uF MKT caps for DC blocking to HPhones lines...
With my old 63 I swapped to simply runing on +/-15v with some small improvement. Well worth trying if your opamps will take it (not AD8610/86320s!)
Re: 12V PSU
I'm sure it will help, but perhaps not quite as much as powering some of the 5v parts with dedicated psus and tx. Give it a go!
Simon
Malefoda said:
I'm sure it will help, but perhaps not quite as much as powering some of the 5v parts with dedicated psus and tx. Give it a go!
Simon
Ok if this is a very last thing to do I drop it. I only have a normal (how to say? Square?) TX, 2 x 9V. Is it better to built two 5V rails from it, and let the OEM one for something else, so there will be three 5V rails?
Malefoda - in that case it could be worth your while to split up the 5v supplies... I think I'd try first:
One new 5v supply to the dac's analogue supply pins (pins 17, 21, 22, 26)
One new 5v supply to oscillator supply pin 27 and 16 (digital supply - give this s separate 5v regulator to pin 27!)
Leave the existing transformer to feed 5v to everything else inside the CD63 - decoder etc.
Doing this will require cutting a few PCB tracks! However you group teh supplies it's quite important all teh 3 supplies required by the dac come frm the same transformer; like many bitstream deviecs it can 'lock up' and not wrk until a successful restart if the supplies don't turn-on at the same time and at similar rates (usually within 0.6v of each other at all times).
One new 5v supply to the dac's analogue supply pins (pins 17, 21, 22, 26)
One new 5v supply to oscillator supply pin 27 and 16 (digital supply - give this s separate 5v regulator to pin 27!)
Leave the existing transformer to feed 5v to everything else inside the CD63 - decoder etc.
Doing this will require cutting a few PCB tracks! However you group teh supplies it's quite important all teh 3 supplies required by the dac come frm the same transformer; like many bitstream deviecs it can 'lock up' and not wrk until a successful restart if the supplies don't turn-on at the same time and at similar rates (usually within 0.6v of each other at all times).
How can I be sure all supplies start at the same time ? They'll be 2 TX then, one with 2x9V regulated to 5, and the OEM one. Of course the same main. All will get the same regulators, I don't remember if some got an improved caps or such with Ray's list. Maybe some Audiocom regs or Tent... But if Guido is gone in South America with my money and my XO I think it'll be Audiocom...
Martin don't you get my mails?
Martin don't you get my mails?
martin clark said:
Martin,
You obviously know your stuff, so I say this with respect, you don't need to feed these from the same transformer, in this CD player. My DAC is fed from two different external transformers: one supplies digital (and to decoder) and the other supplies the analogue power (and to decoder). It's always worked fine like this. The more and the bigger transformers you have the better the CD player will sound.
Simon
Malefoda said:
Build them carefully and similar to each other and you'll be fine. I say this from personal experience, not electronics knowledge (disclaimer there). The supplies needn't be fancy, but it costs little to use schottky diodes and good quality industrial capacitors (like Pany Fc etc.). The more the merrier. Wet your feet with just one extra supply at a time. Don't build it all and then be surprised when it doesn't work. Do it piece by piece!
Cutting tracks is perhaps a daunting procedure so you might want to begin by powering just one thing, such as the DAC analogue pins. These can be isolated by lifting resistors. No track cutting required AFAIK.
Simon
Ok here I go then 😉
After my Flea (I pray God Guido is still in business... and will be back! Please Guido!!), my Raygulators, the coax mod, the hard wiring of the HF PCB and the IC sheilding.
Work ahead!
Thanks guys!
After my Flea (I pray God Guido is still in business... and will be back! Please Guido!!), my Raygulators, the coax mod, the hard wiring of the HF PCB and the IC sheilding.
Work ahead!
Thanks guys!
Simon - cool, thanks for the more positive report!
Seperate transformers to the DAC supplies isn't something I ever tried with a CD63, but the start-up issue is one of those little wrinkles that can cause real problems but may not be obvious. I've run into it before with the Crystal CS4390, and some BurrBrown dacs - things like the PCM1710 (e.g Rega Planet mk.1) actually specifies that the digital and analogue sides should be within 0.6v all though startup(!)- and I can tell you, they ain't lying... Using just 1 transformer is necessary if a tight spec is required.