It may be a nice idea if one of you cd63 gods could post some mod list on the resistor selections also, that would be helpfull i noticed on some of the pics that resistors had been changed that are not on the famous mod lists here. It would be interesting to see what polishing can be done to the output.
Switched Mode Powersupplies, just in the pure nature of how they are designed to work, basically an oscillator, with a current output and lots and lots of smoothing lol I wouldnt put one in a player, maybe i should stick some scoped outputs off SMPSU's on here, there noisey depending on the design and quality, worse with poor grounding. Better powering you cd 63 from your toaster
OH NO i bet u guys have tried them with good results ! and ill get slapped now lol
Dennis
Switched Mode Powersupplies, just in the pure nature of how they are designed to work, basically an oscillator, with a current output and lots and lots of smoothing lol I wouldnt put one in a player, maybe i should stick some scoped outputs off SMPSU's on here, there noisey depending on the design and quality, worse with poor grounding. Better powering you cd 63 from your toaster
OH NO i bet u guys have tried them with good results ! and ill get slapped now lolDennis
ImSparticus said:
Hi Dennis,
What specific resistor numbers did you have in mind, just the output stage? Or do you mean which-brand-goes-where? On my website you can find my latest modslists, and I know Brent posted his monster list here in this thread. Maybe that can shed some light on your question. He modded his 63 to the bone
. Also be aware that some pics could show the CD57 or 67, which haven't got the discrete HF-amp and servo chip.Regards,
Ray
ImSparticus said:It may be a nice idea if one of you cd63 gods could post some mod list on the resistor selections also, that would be helpfull i noticed on some of the pics that resistors had been changed that are not on the famous mod lists here. It would be interesting to see what polishing can be done to the output.
Switched Mode Powersupplies, just in the pure nature of how they are designed to work, basically an oscillator, with a current output and lots and lots of smoothing lol I wouldnt put one in a player, maybe i should stick some scoped outputs off SMPSU's on here, there noisey depending on the design and quality, worse with poor grounding. Better powering you cd 63 from your toaster
Dennis
ray
Better powering you cd 63 from your toaster
the sound absolutely smokes!!!!
Better powering you cd 63 from your kettle
high's seem to just evaporate!!!
Microwave?? to much noise
allan
ps toaster's better,, you can vary the smoke
pps dennis
smps in a cd player?
Look at the DVD player's
first mod is to remove it and go discrete.
6h5c said:
Cheers ray.
i removed the HDAM circuitry and ran some wires from the op-amp outputs directly to my new RCA sockets yesterday. Then i realised that i need to un-sodler my RCA's whenever i take my player apart. Lol should have left them till last.
Lol, will overhaul the output area today or tomorrow. Ive emailed national again about sending my some samples. If they continue to be ***** would i still be able to get a few offer you, **iamsparticus**
??
ta
My CD63 Transformation
I have been lurking this thread for quite some time and have finally bit the bullet and modified my player. Being an Electronics Engineer and PCB Designer by trade, I did most of the mods listed here with my own twist.
1. Dynamat entire chassis:
2. Install Vibrapod feet:
3. Remove ALL unnecessary circuitry on PCB to eliminate crosstalk, etc. (HDAM, Muting, Headphone, Digital Out)
4. Replace regulators with On Semi Precision 2% replacements
5. Replace P/S caps with Panasonic FC Low ESR
6. Install Panasonic line choke in empty spot on PCB
7. Replace rectifier diodes with Schottkys
8. Replace Decoder and DAC digital supply caps with Panasonic FC Low ESR
9. Replace Analog caps with Black Gate STD
10. Replace op-amp with LM4562 (also have AD8620 and OP132/OP627 to audition)
11. Add gold-plated RCA jacks hard-wired direct to analog section
12. Grounded crystal to PCB
My initial impression is that the bass is much deeper and more defined. Still a bit muddy, but 300 times better than stock! Trebles are over-emphasized and when I replace the LPF parts with high-precision, I'll alter the response curve. Mid-range has superb detail and clarity. I am hoping the bass and treble obtain the same level of clarity after the caps burn-in.
Others claim the LM4562 is transparent and I agree 100%! But, almost too transparent for my taste. I prefer a little warmth and will audition the other op-amp choices and make a choice later.
For reference, I have several CD's mirrored on vinyl and play them back-to-back on the same system. While vinyl wins HANDS DOWN even to the modded CD63, the CD player sounds 10 times better than before! The only other mod I intend to do is replace the RF amp sections and LPF sections with high-precision components and replace the crystal with a HagClock.
The only downside is that I got a little agressive and removed too many components and now my display is inop. I need to look at the schematics again and see which part I removed that I should not have!
Thanks for the thread guys ... it has been a great help in my modification and I am VERY pleased with the results!
I have been lurking this thread for quite some time and have finally bit the bullet and modified my player. Being an Electronics Engineer and PCB Designer by trade, I did most of the mods listed here with my own twist.
1. Dynamat entire chassis:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
2. Install Vibrapod feet:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
3. Remove ALL unnecessary circuitry on PCB to eliminate crosstalk, etc. (HDAM, Muting, Headphone, Digital Out)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
4. Replace regulators with On Semi Precision 2% replacements
5. Replace P/S caps with Panasonic FC Low ESR
6. Install Panasonic line choke in empty spot on PCB
7. Replace rectifier diodes with Schottkys
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
8. Replace Decoder and DAC digital supply caps with Panasonic FC Low ESR
9. Replace Analog caps with Black Gate STD
10. Replace op-amp with LM4562 (also have AD8620 and OP132/OP627 to audition)
11. Add gold-plated RCA jacks hard-wired direct to analog section
12. Grounded crystal to PCB
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
My initial impression is that the bass is much deeper and more defined. Still a bit muddy, but 300 times better than stock! Trebles are over-emphasized and when I replace the LPF parts with high-precision, I'll alter the response curve. Mid-range has superb detail and clarity. I am hoping the bass and treble obtain the same level of clarity after the caps burn-in.
Others claim the LM4562 is transparent and I agree 100%! But, almost too transparent for my taste. I prefer a little warmth and will audition the other op-amp choices and make a choice later.
For reference, I have several CD's mirrored on vinyl and play them back-to-back on the same system. While vinyl wins HANDS DOWN even to the modded CD63, the CD player sounds 10 times better than before! The only other mod I intend to do is replace the RF amp sections and LPF sections with high-precision components and replace the crystal with a HagClock.
The only downside is that I got a little agressive and removed too many components and now my display is inop. I need to look at the schematics again and see which part I removed that I should not have!
Thanks for the thread guys ... it has been a great help in my modification and I am VERY pleased with the results!
ADFINNI
Yes m8, i havnt forgotten, i should of mailed you, been out a lot lately. I have ordered more form National but for some reason although the order went through i havnt had any replies, I know my works mail box is full so i will see what happens. I have some nice gold plated sockets also, as i said previously these are Gold Plated, not the cheaper gold over nickel, Check your mail later. Have some 4% silver solder for you to install them with also.
I just hope they send me more, i want a spare set also.
Dennis
Yes m8, i havnt forgotten, i should of mailed you, been out a lot lately. I have ordered more form National but for some reason although the order went through i havnt had any replies, I know my works mail box is full so i will see what happens. I have some nice gold plated sockets also, as i said previously these are Gold Plated, not the cheaper gold over nickel, Check your mail later. Have some 4% silver solder for you to install them with also.
I just hope they send me more, i want a spare set also.
Dennis
Re: My CD63 Transformation
Hi Craig,
Nice job! I'm glad you like the results. I like the output sockets & wiring, very neat!
Allow those BG's (and the rest too...) some time to burn-in, they take quite a while. About your display: you're not the only one who's had that problem (no names revealed...).
Ray
craigtone said:I have been lurking this thread for quite some time and have finally bit the bullet and modified my player. Being an Electronics Engineer and PCB Designer by trade, I did most of the mods listed here with my own twist.
...
The only downside is that I got a little agressive and removed too many components and now my display is inop. I need to look at the schematics again and see which part I removed that I should not have!
Thanks for the thread guys ... it has been a great help in my modification and I am VERY pleased with the results!
Hi Craig,
Nice job! I'm glad you like the results. I like the output sockets & wiring, very neat!
Allow those BG's (and the rest too...) some time to burn-in, they take quite a while. About your display: you're not the only one who's had that problem (no names revealed...)
.Ray
Maybe I'm an idiot in electronics, but I do not blow anything or lose display or such when modding my CD53
According to what I plan my amp will be ( somthing like the entry level Copland http://www.copland.dk/large/large_29.htm , Naim NAIT 5i http://www.naim-audio.com/products/nait5i.html or Primare http://www.sumikoaudio.net/primare/products/i21.htm ).
I just don't want to go too far on modding my CD53, I want to upgrade it as much as possible matching what such integrated amp can do but not over if it's modding for no result.
But my feeling now is that even with my Aracam Alpha One wich is not a wonder, I do enjoy the improvment! And my speakers have to be upgraded maybe also after all this... My Quad 11L are more than nice for their price, but not enough for the modder CDP and such amp...
So your advices about range of upgrade/system (not toaster, thanks) and the cheapest way to go to next level :
the Audiocom kits are expensive, are the Raygulators already a good improvment? Maybe build a flea is also a wonder? And a dedicated psu for the flea? Any list and drawings to build such ps? (no pics of toaster, thanks).
I'm also interested in used parts as clocks or regs.
Thanks guy! (and have extra LM4562 in hands... )
According to what I plan my amp will be ( somthing like the entry level Copland http://www.copland.dk/large/large_29.htm , Naim NAIT 5i http://www.naim-audio.com/products/nait5i.html or Primare http://www.sumikoaudio.net/primare/products/i21.htm ).
I just don't want to go too far on modding my CD53, I want to upgrade it as much as possible matching what such integrated amp can do but not over if it's modding for no result.
But my feeling now is that even with my Aracam Alpha One wich is not a wonder, I do enjoy the improvment! And my speakers have to be upgraded maybe also after all this... My Quad 11L are more than nice for their price, but not enough for the modder CDP and such amp...
So your advices about range of upgrade/system (not toaster, thanks) and the cheapest way to go to next level :
the Audiocom kits are expensive, are the Raygulators already a good improvment? Maybe build a flea is also a wonder? And a dedicated psu for the flea? Any list and drawings to build such ps? (no pics of toaster, thanks).
I'm also interested in used parts as clocks or regs.
Thanks guy! (and have extra LM4562 in hands...
)So let me get this right. You can run a wire from just after the opamp and bypass everything?
If I do this:
Where do I run the bypass wire from?
Do I just remove the existing signal connection from the rca outputs and solder on the other end of the bypass wire?
If so, do I just leave the rca ground connection alone?
If I do this:
Where do I run the bypass wire from?
Do I just remove the existing signal connection from the rca outputs and solder on the other end of the bypass wire?
If so, do I just leave the rca ground connection alone?
YoungSC
A HDAM bypass search pops up 72 posts, but those from Ray 6h5c are probably the best.
I have been saving a few posts on this too. There is a bit of confusion between the various models all included in this thread.
The HDAM bypass (both CD63 and CD67) is apparently this:
BUT Note this in an earlier post
I am still not 100% sure exactly which resistors or caps can and cannot be left in place as a result of the bypass but it appears to be RH23 and RH24.
Good pic of 63Se here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=968009#post968009
If someone can confirm all this it'd be great for both of us!
k.
A HDAM bypass search pops up 72 posts, but those from Ray 6h5c are probably the best.
I have been saving a few posts on this too. There is a bit of confusion between the various models all included in this thread.
The HDAM bypass (both CD63 and CD67) is apparently this:
BUT Note this in an earlier post
I am still not 100% sure exactly which resistors or caps can and cannot be left in place as a result of the bypass but it appears to be RH23 and RH24.
I think this is 63se applicable.
Good pic of 63Se here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=968009#post968009
If someone can confirm all this it'd be great for both of us!
k.
Hi,
Thanks for your reply.
I should have clarified what I have done. I've already done the HDAM bypass and removed the muting transistors. I notice that some people bypass all the way from just after the opamps direct to the output plugs e.g. Craigtone and I think Disco, while others bypass to a certain point and then the signal passes through a few resistors (at least to my logic) e.g. Ray.
I would be interested in doing the former and perhaps getting some new better quality output plugs to create the simplest signal path.
Simon (Oz)
Thanks for your reply.
I should have clarified what I have done. I've already done the HDAM bypass and removed the muting transistors. I notice that some people bypass all the way from just after the opamps direct to the output plugs e.g. Craigtone and I think Disco, while others bypass to a certain point and then the signal passes through a few resistors (at least to my logic) e.g. Ray.
I would be interested in doing the former and perhaps getting some new better quality output plugs to create the simplest signal path.
Simon (Oz)
Hello,
About the 2nd quotation, "The bypass resistors are not fitted on the CD63/SE/KI. They are fitted to the CD43/53", yes this is R619 and R620 wich... I've removed also to bypass more directly, like the picture you gave.
And I have the same question, why some goes directly to RCA plug, and why others go through 4 resistors per channel, with an upgraded one on each channel.
Any choices to make here?
As for me I'm willing to follow Ray's advices, as I modded my CDP his way and it works fine. ( still the resistors ).
Edit: many CDx3/x7 on eBay France, what are the usual prices? Seems a faulty one can sell 20€, a normal 53/57 45€, a SE 150/200€. Is it ok?
About the 2nd quotation, "The bypass resistors are not fitted on the CD63/SE/KI. They are fitted to the CD43/53", yes this is R619 and R620 wich... I've removed also to bypass more directly, like the picture you gave.
And I have the same question, why some goes directly to RCA plug, and why others go through 4 resistors per channel, with an upgraded one on each channel.
Any choices to make here?
As for me I'm willing to follow Ray's advices, as I modded my CDP his way and it works fine. ( still the resistors ).
Edit: many CDx3/x7 on eBay France, what are the usual prices? Seems a faulty one can sell 20€, a normal 53/57 45€, a SE 150/200€. Is it ok?
Malefoda said:Maybe I'm an idiot in electronics, but I do not blow anything or lose display or such when modding my CD53
That places you in the non-smoking group, with extra credits
.Does the Alpha One have a remote? I have one here that lost it's remote, but it refuses to respond to anything. Do you know what type of code it uses, Sony or Philips perhaps?
The Flea is a good upgrade, I like it very much. A dedicate PSU is very simple: a small 15V PCB tranny, four schottky's, a good cap and a 18V regulator.
These prices are normal, they are a lot like the prices here on a dutch auction site. The SE could be a bit cheaper if you are lucky. But you can use a 53/57, the PCB is the same and lot's of parts will be taken out anyway.
Regards,
Ray
The most direct bypass can be made from U210/214 for the CD53/63 or U216/217 for the CD57/67, straight to the (new) output RCA's. Some opamps need a small output resistor of 22...47R in series because they are not short-circuit proof. Consult the datasheet for that. Be sure to disable HDAM by removing the PSU resistors. All other stuff can be left in place. If you use the on-board RCA sockets, remove the other crap too, like muting, C659/660 and the output caps.
Regards,
Ray.
Regards,
Ray.
Thanks for the answers!
My Arcam Alpha One is a very cheap amp, no RC on it:
I've found back the bill of the Arcam, not that cheap
My Arcam Alpha One is a very cheap amp, no RC on it:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I've found back the bill of the Arcam, not that cheap