Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

[6h5c]

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Spindle motor problem

Hmmm, this Etoko is MS-only... these boys never learn
Will shop around. Thanks for the input!
Jaap

You mean Internet Explorer only? Strange, i'm using Mozilla, no problems at all.
There's a text only version if you are having problems.

Ray

 

[Chrisr3521]

801/802 replacement

i really am a beginner at this having decides to follow the mod list on the cd67, can anyone help, how do you build the circuit board replacement for q801/802, what components do you use, also what does he mean by reversing thecaps and diodes and crossing the pins?

any help would be gratefully recived.

 

[Chivvyp]

Hi Pete,

Is the clock powered from the player, or does it have it's own supply? I could be the clock not powering up fast enough. If you then turn it on for the second time, the caps are still a bit charged and everything runs fine. I had similar problems when I used a too big bypass cap on the adj-pin of a regulator.

Ray.

Hi Ray,

I take a +ve and gnd from U267, U268. This is then split to feed the superclock (audiocom) and 3 x LM340. Each LM340 is followed by a .22uF film and a 220uF electrolytic. The caps around the Dac (CD04,7, 15,16) are all 1000uF bypassed with 0.10uF film caps.

Do you think the size of these would be enough to cause this problem.

Does the clock and clock dac have to start together or one before the other?

Regards

Pete

 

[Chivvyp]

Re: Help! Remote control does nothing!

I've done the damping, and all on Ray's list but Decoder/Servo & Vref/Drivers.
Sounds great but... no more RC! It works with the OEM one at maybe 3 cm, and with a chinese "all in1" at... 10 cm... is there anything on the PCB that sacrifice de RC? Or just a "normal but unlucky" failure? How to test & fix it?
Heeeeeeelp!!!!

Hi Malefoda,

Have you checked the main ribbon connector between the PCB and front panel? I think it's the strand on the right as you look from the front of the machine.

Regards

Pete

 

[6h5c]

Hi Ray,

I take a +ve and gnd from U267, U268. This is then split to feed the superclock (audiocom) and 3 x LM340. Each LM340 is followed by a .22uF film and a 220uF electrolytic. The caps around the Dac (CD04,7, 15,16) are all 1000uF bypassed with 0.10uF film caps. Do you think the size of these would be enough to cause this problem.
Does the clock and clock dac have to start together or one before the other?

Regards

Pete

Hey Pete,

The feed from U267/268 is ok, that's C813. The clock should be present and stable before the DAC's reset is released. Maybe the superclock's power-up is a bit too slow. You can test this by temporary powering the clock from a separate supply that you leave on while powering up the player. If this cures the problem you know the clock is too slow. The big caps shouldn't be a problem, they are at the output of the regs and will be charged very fast.

Regards,

Ray

 

[6h5c]

Re: 801/802 replacement

i really am a beginner at this having decides to follow the mod list on the cd67, can anyone help, how do you build the circuit board replacement for q801/802, what components do you use, also what does he mean by reversing thecaps and diodes and crossing the pins?

any help would be gratefully recived.

Hi Reddish,

Welcome to this thread. I think this one is for Jaap to answer, the designer of the PCB. But why don't you start with the more easy mods, since you are a beginner and do not (yet) know how to build a PCB? Replacing the complete output-stage is not really a one hour job .

Ray.

 

[poynton]

Re: Re: 801/802 replacement

Hi Reddish,

Welcome to this thread. I think this one is for Jaap to answer, the designer of the PCB. But why don't you start with the more easy mods, since you are a beginner and do not (yet) know how to build a PCB? Replacing the complete output-stage is not really a one hour job .

Ray.

Hi.

Q801/902 are the 12v regulators.
I see from another thread that he has (?) some pcb's from China .

Andy

 

[6h5c]

Re: Re: Re: 801/802 replacement

Hi.

Q801/902 are the 12v regulators.
I see from another thread that he has (?) some pcb's from China .

Andy

Darn, that's about the PCB's I built myself.... shame on me
Thanks for waking me, Andy! Thought those were the opamps...

Those PCB's are from Eddie Wang DIY. But he has designed new ones, also for the LM337, so the part about reversing and bending is no longer nescessary.

Regards,

Ray

 

[Malefoda]

Thanks you guys for helping, remote switch is ok, the ribbon also... I'll have to fit a cap as Ray said ( I've some spare cards with 22u cap on it from work...).
Will tell you.

 

[YoungSC]

Hello Gents,

Well, my mate came over last night and we bit the bullet and replaced the power supply diodes, 4 x opa627's on adapters and 2 x Black Gate caps replaced CD15 & 16.

When we turned on the machine, we were relieved to see everything start up OK. The disappointment came when we played music and we only heard sound through the left channel. I noticed that it was at a much lower level than normal and caused me to wonder if the opa627's have a lower output than the originals.

Anyway..........tonight I flew solo and printed out a schematic from the Brown Dog website for the opamp. I checked the impedances and found a bad solder join. I fixed that, put it all back together and BINGO, the right channel is working loud and clear. The problem is, the left channel is much quieter, so that at least answers the low output question I had.

I am planning to go through the same procedure on the left channel opamp tomorrow night or on the weekend. In the meantime, I would appreciate any tips on why the output on the left channel is lower.

Cheers,

Simon (from Oz)

 

[Chivvyp]

Hey Pete,

The feed from U267/268 is ok, that's C813. The clock should be present and stable before the DAC's reset is released. Maybe the superclock's power-up is a bit too slow. You can test this by temporary powering the clock from a separate supply that you leave on while powering up the player. If this cures the problem you know the clock is too slow. The big caps shouldn't be a problem, they are at the output of the regs and will be charged very fast.

Regards,

Ray

Hi,

Looks like the clock is slow powering up. I spoke to Audiocom today and they said it was possible but they'd not come across the problem with a CD67 before. Anyway I'm going to send the clock back so they can check it out.

Thanks for the advice.

Pete

 

[Chivvyp]

Hello Gents,

Well, my mate came over last night and we bit the bullet and replaced the power supply diodes, 4 x opa627's on adapters and 2 x Black Gate caps replaced CD15 & 16.

When we turned on the machine, we were relieved to see everything start up OK. The disappointment came when we played music and we only heard sound through the left channel. I noticed that it was at a much lower level than normal and caused me to wonder if the opa627's have a lower output than the originals.

Anyway..........tonight I flew solo and printed out a schematic from the Brown Dog website for the opamp. I checked the impedances and found a bad solder join. I fixed that, put it all back together and BINGO, the right channel is working loud and clear. The problem is, the left channel is much quieter, so that at least answers the low output question I had.

I am planning to go through the same procedure on the left channel opamp tomorrow night or on the weekend. In the meantime, I would appreciate any tips on why the output on the left channel is lower.

Cheers,

Simon (from Oz)

Hi,

I had a similar problem recently, in my case it was a lifted PCB trace under CD15 letting large amounts of DC through the signal channel.

I found it useful to record a steady sine wave signal onto a cd and play it back so I could check voltages at all the pins on the opamps and at various other points to look for differences between the L and R channels.

Regards

Pete

 

[farl]

Looks like the clock is slow powering up. I spoke to Audiocom today and they said it was possible but they'd not come across the problem with a CD67 before. Anyway I'm going to send the clock back so they can check it out.

Be careful with Audiocom, I have a very bad experience with them.I'd ordered their Super Regulator 2 before and when I installed it in my Marantz Cd7300 the bass became weak, When I informed them, they said that the Super Regulator 2 is faulty. They advice me to return it to them for replacement. But until now almost 5 months I didn't received the replacement and they never answer my e-mails. I sent it thru registered mail and my local post told me that Audiocom received the item.

 

[Malefoda]

Re: Re: Re: Help! Remote control does nothing!

Did you replace RY11 with an inductor? That one supplies +5V to the front PCB. Somehow the inductor in the powerline seems to interfere with the RC5 remote signal sometimes. Try a 10...22u electrolytic in parallel with CY01 on the front PCB, that fixed it for me. If you look at the traces carefully, you can solder it right on, you don't even have to take the PCB out.

Regards,

Ray

Bravo to Ray! It's ok with a 10u cap on CY01

 

[6h5c]

Re: Re: Re: Re: Help! Remote control does nothing!

Bravo to Ray! It's ok with a 10u cap on CY01

I'm glad it works! I stumbled across this when I was upgrading my CD67 for the first time, and didn't know what to make of it. I think the inductor and the small 22/47n ceramic form some kind of resonant circuit which interferes with the remote signal. By adding the small electrolytic the local voltage is properly smoothed.

Regards,

Ray

 

[ImSparticus]

Burson Audio, whats the final thoughts

Hi guys, ive completed a lot of the mods on here, cant thank u enough for the info posted.

Im looking at buying the Burson Audio discrete op amps for the cd63KI. I read on these forums that they tried some underhanded posts that didnt reflect to well on them, some time ago though.

Does anyone actually know if they are any good or not, i can purchase for £41, so may try them and post some reviews.

has anyone actually purchsed them, i see a few have posted some links.

Just need to clean up the output on the cd63 ki because its still sounds wey too bright for me. Ill post seperatly on that later.

 

[awpagan]

Re: Burson Audio, whats the final thoughts

Hi guys, ive completed a lot of the mods on here, cant thank u enough for the info posted.

Im looking at buying the Burson Audio discrete op amps for the cd63KI. I read on these forums that they tried some underhanded posts that didnt reflect to well on them, some time ago though.

Does anyone actually know if they are any good or not, i can purchase for £41, so may try them and post some reviews.

has anyone actually purchsed them, i see a few have posted some links.

Just need to clean up the output on the cd63 ki because its still sounds wey too bright for me. Ill post seperatly on that later.

Burson have never responded, replied or apologised for any misleading information
It just does not infer anything honest about good business practices.

as for the product, don't know never tried them probably never will.
besides they are a lot cheaper from the maker in china.

allan

 

[Zombie]

CD63 NOT WORKING for sale

I had fun modding my 2 Marantz players thanks to all the knowledge on this site, but now I'm selling a modded CD63SE/KIS on URL=http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290034482614]ePay[/URL]
Contact for more details about it.
A front panel to a CD67 mk1 is also up for sale.
My Quad 99CDP p****s all over it anyway...

 

[poynton]

Re: CD63 NOT WORKING for sale

I had fun modding my 2 Marantz players thanks to all the knowledge on this site, but now I'm selling a modded CD63SE/KIS on URL=http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290034482614]ePay[/URL]
Contact for more details about it.
A front panel to a CD67 mk1 is also up for sale.
My Quad 99CDP p****s all over it anyway...

No toroid Tx then ?

 

[Zombie]

it's with the toroid