Found it Ben.The f@#&!~*g small ribbon cable.It took me 3 hours to find it because i gone through all the board with the multimeter to find if there is a crack and lastly after take in and out the ribbon cable about 10 times...it has been a specific insert i must put it in no so deep or not so upwards.It really brake my nerves.Is there a ribon cable as a spare part for buying 1 anywhere?
Sorry to hear that Charas. This hobby can be character building.
I think I remember others mentioning recently that generic ribbons can be found on eBay.
I have also heard that some people hardwire the mech to the PCB, but that sounds a bit masochistic to me, relatively speaking of course.
I think I remember others mentioning recently that generic ribbons can be found on eBay.
I have also heard that some people hardwire the mech to the PCB, but that sounds a bit masochistic to me, relatively speaking of course.
The ribbon is rarely the issue. It is mainly the connectors that cause issues.
Hard wiring with a high quality FLEXI through hole ribbon is the best way to go and you will never have any issues again.
These are the best - FSN-23A-15 - TE CONNECTIVITY - RIBBON CABLE, 15WAY, 3" | Farnell UK
You cut the ribbon into 8pin and 7pin
regards
Brent
Hard wiring with a high quality FLEXI through hole ribbon is the best way to go and you will never have any issues again.
These are the best - FSN-23A-15 - TE CONNECTIVITY - RIBBON CABLE, 15WAY, 3" | Farnell UK
You cut the ribbon into 8pin and 7pin
regards
Brent
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Thank you guys for info.Brent this ribbon cable from Farnell it is THE solution but with 1 minor fault???If you haven't finish everything on the player and you want to add something later...you have to unsolder one side to flip the board?Am i corect or i missing something here?
Regards,
Thanasis.
Regards,
Thanasis.
It's easy enough. Lift mech remove small pcb from mech and laser. Let the liitle pcb flap about the ribbon will not break. Trust me I've done this hundreds of times!
Brent
Brent
Ben Hanke Thanks for clarifying that mod, Brent. I had imagined spaghetti hookup wire.
me too
me too
CD67 SE upgrade questions from a mod newbie
Hi everyone,
I'm new to CD modding and after buying a CD-67 SE I'm up for trying to modify it.
There seem to be so many suggestions on this thread I think I need some advice on starting this project. If you can help answer a few of my many questions, I'd appreciate it.
1. As there are so many tweaks, I'm thinking it might be best to do Ray's mod list rather than mix and match. Does the CD67MkII or CD67OSE list best fit my CD67SE?
2. I can see upgrading the PSU cap is highly recommended, but there seems to be a huge variation in capacitor values different people use. Why is this the case? *confused*
(Best stick to Ray's values???).
3. Do you recommend replacing the clock (e.g. Ray's Flea Kit) - this would need a PSU as well?
4. What OPAMP replacements would you recommend - would they need sockets or SMD adapters - if so which ones would I need?
5. Replacing the regulators looks complicated - again is there a way to simplify this? Are pre-made PCBs still available? (Eddie's link no longer works).
I thinks replacing the caps and other components should be okay. I'll probably leave the clock until last.
Thanks for any advice - be gentle I'm a newbie to the forum...
Hi everyone,
I'm new to CD modding and after buying a CD-67 SE I'm up for trying to modify it.
There seem to be so many suggestions on this thread I think I need some advice on starting this project. If you can help answer a few of my many questions, I'd appreciate it.
1. As there are so many tweaks, I'm thinking it might be best to do Ray's mod list rather than mix and match. Does the CD67MkII or CD67OSE list best fit my CD67SE?
2. I can see upgrading the PSU cap is highly recommended, but there seems to be a huge variation in capacitor values different people use. Why is this the case? *confused*
(Best stick to Ray's values???).
3. Do you recommend replacing the clock (e.g. Ray's Flea Kit) - this would need a PSU as well?
4. What OPAMP replacements would you recommend - would they need sockets or SMD adapters - if so which ones would I need?
5. Replacing the regulators looks complicated - again is there a way to simplify this? Are pre-made PCBs still available? (Eddie's link no longer works).
I thinks replacing the caps and other components should be okay. I'll probably leave the clock until last.
Thanks for any advice - be gentle I'm a newbie to the forum...
Hi Guys,
Is there a shop you can recommend for internet orders for Bitument insulation boards,cheap shop please.
Thank you.
Is there a shop you can recommend for internet orders for Bitument insulation boards,cheap shop please.
Thank you.
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Odd, it's there. Must be a problem with the link.
Go to Waysideadhesives shop (or waysideadhesives.com) and search for sound deadening.
Regards
Pete
Go to Waysideadhesives shop (or waysideadhesives.com) and search for sound deadening.
Regards
Pete
Hi station,
I'll put my two pence in on a few of your questions:
2. The PSU caps smooth the ripple and act as momentary reservoirs. Recommended if you do HDAM bypass in particular. Bigger does not necessarily mean better though because quality and fitment are also of concern. The safest path here is probably to go for good quality (for audio) caps rated comfortably above the original voltage rating and some value larger than before, but making sure to keep as close to the original footprint as possible. I like the 22,000uF Mundorfs because they fit in the original spots.
3. Ray's Flea kit is easy and rewarding to build. You will need a PSU. You can buy PCBs on eBay or build on vero. Also fun.
4. I can recommend LM4562HA on BrownDog adapters. Use a socket. Also do filter caps and resistors with better quality, 1% or tighter tolerance parts. Polystyrene or silver mica caps are typically used. Consider if you'll want to eventually do a DOS build because that will nullify all your efforts in this area. Buy the op-amps from a trusted retailer! Watch out for eBay fakes!
Hope this helps,
Ben
I'll put my two pence in on a few of your questions:
2. The PSU caps smooth the ripple and act as momentary reservoirs. Recommended if you do HDAM bypass in particular. Bigger does not necessarily mean better though because quality and fitment are also of concern. The safest path here is probably to go for good quality (for audio) caps rated comfortably above the original voltage rating and some value larger than before, but making sure to keep as close to the original footprint as possible. I like the 22,000uF Mundorfs because they fit in the original spots.
3. Ray's Flea kit is easy and rewarding to build. You will need a PSU. You can buy PCBs on eBay or build on vero. Also fun.
4. I can recommend LM4562HA on BrownDog adapters. Use a socket. Also do filter caps and resistors with better quality, 1% or tighter tolerance parts. Polystyrene or silver mica caps are typically used. Consider if you'll want to eventually do a DOS build because that will nullify all your efforts in this area. Buy the op-amps from a trusted retailer! Watch out for eBay fakes!
Hope this helps,
Ben
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the browndog adaptors aren't an absolute requirement, you can poke the opamp legs directly into the socket.
Regards
Pete
My modded CD63 cannot read disc and it does not spin. The tray can move in and out.
I measure the voltages of QM01 and all legs' voltages are correct except leg no.7. Instead of 2.5V I got 2.25V. The control is from leg 22 of the decoder. I suspect the opamp QM01 is at fault and I have just ordered a few TCA0372 and hope my diagnostic is correct. Hopefully it is not the fault of the decoder instead.
Anybody has other suggestions?
I measure the voltages of QM01 and all legs' voltages are correct except leg no.7. Instead of 2.5V I got 2.25V. The control is from leg 22 of the decoder. I suspect the opamp QM01 is at fault and I have just ordered a few TCA0372 and hope my diagnostic is correct. Hopefully it is not the fault of the decoder instead.
Anybody has other suggestions?
Hi,
I have a question, which, in it's standard form do you think is the best, cd63kisig or cd67osr?
The reason I ask is that I have always thought the cd63 had the upper hand on the cd67. However, comparing the 2 side by side the cd67 is better specd in the electronic arena. Where as the 63 has a toroidal, the 67 has superior psu electolytics (bigger and better quality) also the 67 had 2 7805 regulators as opposed the single one in the 63. The 67 doesn't have all those nasty disc capacitors. Even though the 63 is all copper chassis, it is more lightweight and resonant.
What are the views of others?
I have a question, which, in it's standard form do you think is the best, cd63kisig or cd67osr?
The reason I ask is that I have always thought the cd63 had the upper hand on the cd67. However, comparing the 2 side by side the cd67 is better specd in the electronic arena. Where as the 63 has a toroidal, the 67 has superior psu electolytics (bigger and better quality) also the 67 had 2 7805 regulators as opposed the single one in the 63. The 67 doesn't have all those nasty disc capacitors. Even though the 63 is all copper chassis, it is more lightweight and resonant.
What are the views of others?