Hi,
i posted it also on the other thread with "Modding Marantz CD6000" title.
Today i changed the Diodes 6111-6120 and 6123 and 6125 to 11DQ10
by re assembling i wanted to check if all cables was on and i turned it on without the Laser connected. Since then i become always ERROR 11 (Slegde Error). I testet the lader on a second CD6000 i have and it works.
What is wrong? Can i repair it?
Thanks
i posted it also on the other thread with "Modding Marantz CD6000" title.
Today i changed the Diodes 6111-6120 and 6123 and 6125 to 11DQ10
by re assembling i wanted to check if all cables was on and i turned it on without the Laser connected. Since then i become always ERROR 11 (Slegde Error). I testet the lader on a second CD6000 i have and it works.
What is wrong? Can i repair it?
Thanks
So like a kamikazi i did the same with the display. Display was not connected and i turned it on. Result display works also not.
Does something get destroyed when nothing is connected and the board is on?
Does something get destroyed when nothing is connected and the board is on?
Hi,
if i had a shorting connection (i mean the + touching the ground) at the positive pin of the 2119 Capasitor (it is a 4700uF 16V ELNA) what would burn?
I am not so good at reading schematics.... here is the service manual:
home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/ra.vdsteen/manuals/CD6000_doc.pdf
if i had a shorting connection (i mean the + touching the ground) at the positive pin of the 2119 Capasitor (it is a 4700uF 16V ELNA) what would burn?
I am not so good at reading schematics.... here is the service manual:
home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/ra.vdsteen/manuals/CD6000_doc.pdf
Probably fuse 1114 or 1115. Remove and check the for continuity, if they are bad, replace them with fuses of the same value. Might be wise to test diodes 6115 and 6116 at the same time, though the fuse should have blown before they did.
So, i took them out (the resistors) and i dont get neither continuity nor resistance. I am going to buy in the mornig some new ones! Lets hope that it was the problem. If yes then i think i know where the problem with the Error was (bad connection at the Clock output) and as i tried to correct it, it got worse (there came the short circuit at the 2119 where i get the + supply for the clock).....fingers crossed....
my question now is: Could also something else go bad appart from these resistors and maybe the diodes (so i can buy them at once tomorrow)?
Thanks for the help
my question now is: Could also something else go bad appart from these resistors and maybe the diodes (so i can buy them at once tomorrow)?
Thanks for the help
No, can't think of anything else. So did the short circuit from the positive end happen before or after the error message started to come up?
It happened after but i think thet a had the minor problem at the clock output signal befor and that why it turned on and dint work.
Iwill get the resostors and diodes today and see! I will keep you posted....
and thanks again for the support
Iwill get the resostors and diodes today and see! I will keep you posted....
and thanks again for the support
Another one: What would happen if i got the Quarz output and ground shortened? (not on the extra clock circuitry but on the player PCB)?I think that maybe the problem that caused the Error message at the beggining.
Circled parts are removed
Do you think i destroyd the chip?
http://img91.imageshack.us/my.php?image=clockshortingno2.jpg
Circled parts are removed
Do you think i destroyd the chip?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://img91.imageshack.us/my.php?image=clockshortingno2.jpg
Changed the fuses and it is working!!!!! That very good new since the board and Display seem OK. I must check to see why i get the error message! I suspect the Clock IC....
Thank you very much for the Help
Thank you very much for the Help
I resoldered all positions now on the clock and now the CD is working!
Thank you very very much for the help.
the Player now has:
BG NX on the outputs, Schottky diodes, removed first HDAM, ELNA Silmic on the second HDAM, KWAK Clock and some 0.1 uF parallel Wimas.
The sound is much much more improved than the original (my second one CD6000 OSE) Better soundstage with precise and structured bass. If you hear the one compared to the other then it is easy to recognize the distortion of the high frequencies and the blurry bass of the original.
Again a very big thank you
Thank you very very much for the help.
the Player now has:
BG NX on the outputs, Schottky diodes, removed first HDAM, ELNA Silmic on the second HDAM, KWAK Clock and some 0.1 uF parallel Wimas.
The sound is much much more improved than the original (my second one CD6000 OSE) Better soundstage with precise and structured bass. If you hear the one compared to the other then it is easy to recognize the distortion of the high frequencies and the blurry bass of the original.

Again a very big thank you

Yes i used there the AD826AN as proposed in the avfoum thread Cd6000 Superclock.
Next step will be to change the PSU capasitors for bigger ones.
Next step will be to change the PSU capasitors for bigger ones.
Hi, was considering the PSU Caps exchange and i have 2 possibilities
NICHICON GY Audio Grade 2200uF 160V 105°C
or
NICHICON FX Audio Grade 2200uF 63V 85 C
Another consideration was about the second HDAM. On the CD67 ect there simply bypass it. What can i do on the CD6000 OSE? It's working in another way in it.
cheers,
Vasilis
NICHICON GY Audio Grade 2200uF 160V 105°C
or
NICHICON FX Audio Grade 2200uF 63V 85 C
Another consideration was about the second HDAM. On the CD67 ect there simply bypass it. What can i do on the CD6000 OSE? It's working in another way in it.
cheers,
Vasilis
Or these ones?
NICHICON FW Audio Grade 2200uF 63V
Originally are 1000uF 35V at 105 C ELNA for Audio
cheers
NICHICON FW Audio Grade 2200uF 63V
Originally are 1000uF 35V at 105 C ELNA for Audio
cheers
Could maybe the moderators rename the thread to Cd6000 OSE upgrade or something like this? I think it would be interesting for others too appart the problem i had.
Re: Caps.
Any larger will do but bear in mind size considerations if you want to do a swap in the same location.
Bigger Cap + Bigger Voltage = Bigger Size
Re: HDAMs
Yes, the HDAM is bypassed on the other thread but I cannot remember the exact configuration of the DACs and HDAMS in the CD6000 so I would not like to say.
IIRC, the CD6000 has 2 dacs and the first HDAM (now an IC) is used in differential mode. How is the filtering done?
Remember, the greatest gains in the CD67/CD63 is achieved by going discrete and getting rid of the ics not just the HDAM.
Also great gains are to be had from better PSU diodes, caps, regulators to all parts etc.........
Andy
Any larger will do but bear in mind size considerations if you want to do a swap in the same location.
Bigger Cap + Bigger Voltage = Bigger Size
Re: HDAMs
Yes, the HDAM is bypassed on the other thread but I cannot remember the exact configuration of the DACs and HDAMS in the CD6000 so I would not like to say.
IIRC, the CD6000 has 2 dacs and the first HDAM (now an IC) is used in differential mode. How is the filtering done?
Remember, the greatest gains in the CD67/CD63 is achieved by going discrete and getting rid of the ics not just the HDAM.
Also great gains are to be had from better PSU diodes, caps, regulators to all parts etc.........
Andy
Hi,
i already changed the Diodes in the PSU aerea and some caps. The Op-Amps on the 1. HDAM made a big difference.
Here the Service Manual of the CD6000 OSE
http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/ra.vdsteen/manuals/CD6000_doc.pdf
i already changed the Diodes in the PSU aerea and some caps. The Op-Amps on the 1. HDAM made a big difference.
Here the Service Manual of the CD6000 OSE
http://home.quicknet.nl/qn/prive/ra.vdsteen/manuals/CD6000_doc.pdf
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