Also how does any of this compare to just putting a Dac on the digital output?
I'm thinking i've replaced the tyres, but maybe now I'm trying to make the the engine go faster, when all I need to do is empty the boot?
I'm thinking i've replaced the tyres, but maybe now I'm trying to make the the engine go faster, when all I need to do is empty the boot?
Look at "Chord" or at "DCS" for proper digital signal "scaling" or upsampling if you like (i use a Chord upsampler, dual mono SPdif out to a dual mono DAC @ 2x 88Khz).
Maybe this is a start for DIY:
16x Digital interpolation filter - drive PCM56, PCM58, AD1865 and so on up to 768 kHz
Maybe this is a start for DIY:
16x Digital interpolation filter - drive PCM56, PCM58, AD1865 and so on up to 768 kHz
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Yes sorry, no headphone output on the cd273, i have a philips cd373 which does but I took the board out as Id never use headphones in it.
To be honest I have a Parasound Pass Labs DAC and a Chord Mojo thing that I'm well happy with through a player with the CDM4/19 transport, or even the CDM2 in the Marantz CD75. I do like the TDA1541's though and I like the experience of playing around with these old machines. I have an Arcam in storage too but I can't remember which model, I need to check if it's the one with the double crown DAC. I know it's a TDA1641A, that's all I remember.
Thanks for keeping us updated thirteeneast and you all for your inputs.
I did increase the 47uF caps on the bottom right, sorry I've not got a schematic and forgot to check what they're there for but guessing it's to supply the TDA1541. I increased to 220uF 16v and swapped out two original Cerefines supplying the Opamps with some Nichicon Muse I had about, 100uF's. One of the best improvements so far with just those two changes. The Cerefines test good too.
I forgot to mention I replaced the 10uF caps after the regulators for 1uF electrolytic and added some 0.1uF ceramics to the legs of the regulators input and ground pins for the sake of good practice. Made a nice improvement it seemed. I prefer a higher ESR cap on regulators output.
The next change I'll try is increasing the 6,800uF smoothing cap to 10,000uF, all I have that'll fit well and the other 1000uF remaining cap in the power supply for the same value. Also the sockets are going in for the Opamps now I've made room
Thanks for keeping us updated thirteeneast and you all for your inputs.
I did increase the 47uF caps on the bottom right, sorry I've not got a schematic and forgot to check what they're there for but guessing it's to supply the TDA1541. I increased to 220uF 16v and swapped out two original Cerefines supplying the Opamps with some Nichicon Muse I had about, 100uF's. One of the best improvements so far with just those two changes. The Cerefines test good too.
I forgot to mention I replaced the 10uF caps after the regulators for 1uF electrolytic and added some 0.1uF ceramics to the legs of the regulators input and ground pins for the sake of good practice. Made a nice improvement it seemed. I prefer a higher ESR cap on regulators output.
The next change I'll try is increasing the 6,800uF smoothing cap to 10,000uF, all I have that'll fit well and the other 1000uF remaining cap in the power supply for the same value. Also the sockets are going in for the Opamps now I've made room
I only use the Upscaler of the Chord Not the DAC ! I use a NOS DAC and let the Chord do the digital processing.
The Mojo is not an Upscaler at all. It is "only" a DAC (so far i can see from their website).
Mojo Portable DAC & Headphone Amplfier | Chord Electronics
The Mojo is not an Upscaler at all. It is "only" a DAC (so far i can see from their website).
Mojo Portable DAC & Headphone Amplfier | Chord Electronics
Yes, you're correct. I'm having a look through the great link you shared previously. Very interesting
I would like to try the new Hugo M Upscaler (max. 705.6kHz @16bit) one day even if it is overkill for my application (max. 352.8Khz @16bit).
The price is very steep (especially if using only half of what it can do) and therefore having a go for the DIY version makes sence.
I sold the Chord 64 Dac some time ago as it just could not compete against the NOS DAC. It 'sounded" more "nerveus" and had less spacing information let's call it a "less analogue sounding experience".
The price is very steep (especially if using only half of what it can do) and therefore having a go for the DIY version makes sence.
I sold the Chord 64 Dac some time ago as it just could not compete against the NOS DAC. It 'sounded" more "nerveus" and had less spacing information let's call it a "less analogue sounding experience".
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Just for Info, for anyone like me "struggling to see the wood for the trees", I found this little guide that seems to cover quite a bit.
Don't miss that its five separate papers (I nearly did)
Svilen Spasov's Corner (Dev, Diving, Audio): Modding/Upgrading Marantz CD50
Don't miss that its five separate papers (I nearly did)
Svilen Spasov's Corner (Dev, Diving, Audio): Modding/Upgrading Marantz CD50
That is all very interesting and it will be an improvement of the sound but it will kill your player. And try to find the error then will be very difficult.
Maybe best thing to do here is contacting this guy and ask him if he still uses this player and how long it worked without issues in case he moved on.
Maybe best thing to do here is contacting this guy and ask him if he still uses this player and how long it worked without issues in case he moved on.
Personally I'll be adding a 24 pin socket I now have but will just be giving the saa7020 it's own 7805 before bypassing it, as I don't want to change loads and then not really know what's made any differences.
My usual approach would be do everything at once, but here I'm going to treat this like fishing, and not with a net.
Unfortunately it seems the web has poisoned the recipe for NOS mod from what I can find, too many different options on what best, some say it's the best thing ever, some say it's awful, and agreed this is all up to personal taste, but causing damage to kit like speakers or CD player because of trying to squeeze some detail is no joke.
I can't even find an agreement of which value caps to decouple the tda1541.
My usual approach would be do everything at once, but here I'm going to treat this like fishing, and not with a net.
Unfortunately it seems the web has poisoned the recipe for NOS mod from what I can find, too many different options on what best, some say it's the best thing ever, some say it's awful, and agreed this is all up to personal taste, but causing damage to kit like speakers or CD player because of trying to squeeze some detail is no joke.
I can't even find an agreement of which value caps to decouple the tda1541.
Just do not change any caps yet on the TDA 1541 until you have heard what NOS does for you.
It is simply 3 wires that needs to bypass the SAA. The difference should be very clear.
For me it sounds more realistic and analogue. naturally one could argue that this has to do with the high frequency roll off. But the placing of instruments and especially voices are so much more detailed.
The instruments become "smaller" , by this i mean that they get the size they actually are and not smeared out between the speakers. (this is very difficult to explain but please let us know what You hear...
Best regards,
Frank
It is simply 3 wires that needs to bypass the SAA. The difference should be very clear.
For me it sounds more realistic and analogue. naturally one could argue that this has to do with the high frequency roll off. But the placing of instruments and especially voices are so much more detailed.
The instruments become "smaller" , by this i mean that they get the size they actually are and not smeared out between the speakers. (this is very difficult to explain but please let us know what You hear...
Best regards,
Frank
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Hi Frank,
That's the most accurate explanation as to why this should be tried that i've heard thus far.
Many thanks for that, I will put the socket in later today so shall give it a listen tonight.
Many thanks
Best regards
Richard
That's the most accurate explanation as to why this should be tried that i've heard thus far.
Many thanks for that, I will put the socket in later today so shall give it a listen tonight.
Many thanks
Best regards
Richard
When you are at it, why not try to get rid of that terrible, extremely noisy SAA7220, producing high frequency hash, polluting the entire system? It is feasible, but I don`t have a tested solution.
I didn’t check this bit it sounds right. This chip should have a “tx/rx” for the crystal as wel. So just rewire it and you are done.
It can be that you will get some noise between the tracks as the “muting” is then missing. This can be solved as well naturally.
It can be that you will get some noise between the tracks as the “muting” is then missing. This can be solved as well naturally.
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