Twin EL70 - you mean a Twin Mar-Kel70?
Yes he does. With EL70eN.
dave
That is correct the twin Mar-Kel 70. I also have some regular EL70s stashed in case I really like them and decide to build something else using them. Sadly, if I love the twin Mar-Kel70 it will only serve to taunt me as they won't be mine.
As a side note, they aren't fun to assemble, and the braces have made me hate holesaw bits. Thankfully, forstner bits and a drill press can solve everything it seems.
As a side note, they aren't fun to assemble, and the braces have made me hate holesaw bits. Thankfully, forstner bits and a drill press can solve everything it seems.
Guys, keep building stuff for the EL70 🙂
As i've mentioned i'm after something new (or just do the Mar-Kel70 in birchply) 😀
As i've mentioned i'm after something new (or just do the Mar-Kel70 in birchply) 😀
As a side note, they aren't fun to assemble, and the braces have made me hate holesaw bits. Thankfully, forstner bits and a drill press can solve everything it seems.
Cutting the holes is painful, really painful. I am lucky to have my carpenter help me out.
The complexity of an Onken build have kept me away from building one till now.
-Zia
In all honesty, a saw tooth forstner bit makes it extremely easy to cut the holes in the braces compared to a hole saw, especially with the harder birch ply. It makes one huge mess when dealing with large holes, but aside from the mess and the fact that you can't touch the bit after doing a dozen holes in rapid succession, its pretty easy to do.
Rullknufs, on the topic of using birch ply, I wonder if more bass and impact can be had from using birch ply instead of your extremely thin particleboard. And I keep thinking that if you like the EL70 so much and wish for more bass instead of a different speaker, why not consider building stands for your speaker out of nice plywood and putting a woofer in them and going with a FAST build like what Dave has pointed out before.
After that you can build new plywood cabinets for the Mar-Kel70, since that would probably give you everything that you currently like with that extra assistance for the bottom end which seems to be the one area that you really would like to improve upon.
Rullknufs, on the topic of using birch ply, I wonder if more bass and impact can be had from using birch ply instead of your extremely thin particleboard. And I keep thinking that if you like the EL70 so much and wish for more bass instead of a different speaker, why not consider building stands for your speaker out of nice plywood and putting a woofer in them and going with a FAST build like what Dave has pointed out before.
After that you can build new plywood cabinets for the Mar-Kel70, since that would probably give you everything that you currently like with that extra assistance for the bottom end which seems to be the one area that you really would like to improve upon.
Rullknufs, on the topic of using birch ply, I wonder if more bass and impact can be had from using birch ply instead of your extremely thin particleboard. And I keep thinking that if you like the EL70 so much and wish for more bass instead of a different speaker, why not consider building stands for your speaker out of nice plywood and putting a woofer in them and going with a FAST build like what Dave has pointed out before.
After that you can build new plywood cabinets for the Mar-Kel70, since that would probably give you everything that you currently like with that extra assistance for the bottom end which seems to be the one area that you really would like to improve upon.
Yes, that's a good idea. But the size of the wall is limited, i'm not sure that i would be able to fit an equipment rack, two stands and two woofers.
I was planning on the Peerless 830884 woofer, and crossing over at 145Hz which Bjorno recommended. But wouldn't that mean that i'd need to have the woofers close to the EL70 and at ear-height?
Yes, that's a good idea. But the size of the wall is limited, i'm not sure that i would be able to fit an equipment rack, two stands and two woofers.
I was planning on the Peerless 830884 woofer, and crossing over at 145Hz which Bjorno recommended. But wouldn't that mean that i'd need to have the woofers close to the EL70 and at ear-height?
Close would be good, but woofers XO'd that low certainly wouldn't need to be at ear height - note the location of drivers in bases that Dave has posted frequently. This eventually led to the configuration used in the Tysen "FAST" enclosure - drivers were mounted higher in cabinet, but the XO was 333 HZ -
Close would be good, but woofers XO'd that low certainly wouldn't need to be at ear height - note the location of drivers in bases that Dave has posted frequently. This eventually led to the configuration used in the Tysen "FAST" enclosure - drivers were mounted higher in cabinet, but the XO was 333 HZ -
Okay.
But the woofer and EL70 should be on the same vertical line, right? Then i'd have to make a stand out of the boxes for the woofers. And i guess i need to have the woofers front-firing in my room.
Okay.
But the woofer and EL70 should be on the same vertical line, right? Then i'd have to make a stand out of the boxes for the woofers. And i guess i need to have the woofers front-firing in my room.
sorry, that wasn't clear - yes, the idea is to reduce space by making the woofers as stands for the main enclosures ( EL70 in your case)
if sufficient room is available on either side or behind of the stands (at least a foot) , the drivers wouldn't need to be front firing
as a reminder, here's a couple of photos of variations on this theme from
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/144099-thread-tysen-variations-fast.html
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Tysen, the speaker, and his namesake - getting an early start in the audio lifestyle
sorry, that wasn't clear - yes, the idea is to reduce space by making the woofers as stands for the main enclosures ( EL70 in your case)
if sufficient room is available on either side or behind of the stands (at least a foot) , the drivers wouldn't need to be front firing
as a reminder, here's a couple of photos of variations on this theme from
Tysen, the speaker, and his namesake - getting an early start in the audio lifestyle
I have read a lot about the Tysen 😀
One foot, should be possible. I don't want to place the speaker too close to the corner anyways. But as i've said many times before. Will it work? I mean, one speaker will stand right next to an open door, and the other will stand in a corner. If the driviers can be mounted on the side i guess that makes it much easier making a stand of the cabinet.
I have read a lot about the Tysen 😀
One foot, should be possible. I don't want to place the speaker too close to the corner anyways. But as i've said many times before. Will it work? I mean, one speaker will stand right next to an open door, and the other will stand in a corner. If the driviers can be mounted on the side i guess that makes it much easier making a stand of the cabinet.
will it work in the sense of giving you more output in the lower frequencies than the EL70s alone - certainly
if you're very limited for space, perhaps front firing would provide more placement flexibility in regards to side walls, etc. - if I recall the room correctly, you are rather limited for adding more boxes
will it work in the sense of giving you more output in the lower frequencies than the EL70s alone - certainly
if you're very limited for space, perhaps front firing would provide more placement flexibility in regards to side walls, etc. - if I recall the room correctly, you are rather limited for adding more boxes
Well, the width of the whole setup will be limited. I don't want to place the right channel speaker too far into the corner, and the left channel speaker can't stand in the door. And i'll have to fit an equipment rack inbetween the two speakers. Having front-firing woofers will fit, although i guess it will be difficult making a stand high enough maintaining a reasonable volume of the cabinet.
Rullknufs, you know I want to build the EL166 MLTLs with single woofer/cabinet - the room I have in mind is on the modest side - around 12 x 14. Is your room bigger? My guess is too much bass/LF in a small space isn't ideal either.
Rullknufs, you know I want to build the EL166 MLTLs with single woofer/cabinet - the room I have in mind is on the modest side - around 12 x 14. Is your room bigger? My guess is too much bass/LF in a small space isn't ideal either.
I guess my room is about the same size.
Rullknufs, you know I want to build the EL166 MLTLs with single woofer/cabinet - the room I have in mind is on the modest side - around 12 x 14. Is your room bigger? My guess is too much bass/LF in a small space isn't ideal either.
bingo
Dave,
Read that MTM design does not usually have good dispersion characteristics - fact or fiction? With the EL166 MLTL designs, Is it possible to go trapezoidal like Tysen and can that help create taller listening profile?
-Zia
Read that MTM design does not usually have good dispersion characteristics - fact or fiction? With the EL166 MLTL designs, Is it possible to go trapezoidal like Tysen and can that help create taller listening profile?
-Zia
Read that MTM design does not usually have good dispersion characteristics - fact or fiction?
If you XO at the frequencies you usually see, indeed this can be an issue.
If you XO really low like i did, the driver sare effectively co-incident and all those problems go away.
dave
If you XO at the frequencies you usually see, indeed this can be an issue.
If you XO really low like i did, the driver sare effectively co-incident and all those problems go away.
dave
And that's where a quality full range driver can be of help, right? Help me cross smoothly at lower frequencies.
-Zia
Yes. You get lobing issues with 2 drivers when the distance between them starts getting large compared to the XO frequency.
At 333 Hz a wavelength is ~40" long. At 2kHz is is under 7". Ideally the centre-to-centre driver distance is 1/4 wavelength, 1/2 wavelength you are starting to have issues.
C-C on my MTM is about 10". In the SEAS Thor it is about 11".
dave
At 333 Hz a wavelength is ~40" long. At 2kHz is is under 7". Ideally the centre-to-centre driver distance is 1/4 wavelength, 1/2 wavelength you are starting to have issues.
C-C on my MTM is about 10". In the SEAS Thor it is about 11".
dave
Streets Of London by CM Carlsson on Spotify
Playing it out loud and the Mar-Kel70 fills the whole room with the music. Sounds really really good!
Speaker plans are set on ice for the moment. Saving money for travelling instead. Spain two weeks in august. Slovenia in april. Germany, Czech Republic and South Africa in june/july next year. And if i still have money left i'll go to Shetland islands in the winter after that for Up Helly Aa 😀
Playing it out loud and the Mar-Kel70 fills the whole room with the music. Sounds really really good!
Speaker plans are set on ice for the moment. Saving money for travelling instead. Spain two weeks in august. Slovenia in april. Germany, Czech Republic and South Africa in june/july next year. And if i still have money left i'll go to Shetland islands in the winter after that for Up Helly Aa 😀
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