Hi, I am new to DIY, i know how to soldering, caps, resistors and inductors together, but I dont know how to combine them to match different drivers to get the best crossover point.
Wondering any website they have huge archive of crossover diagrams to match different driver? Such as Seas, Morel, scanspeak, hivi, etc or even those branded speakers.
If have, could you share with me?
Much appreciated, thanks.
Wondering any website they have huge archive of crossover diagrams to match different driver? Such as Seas, Morel, scanspeak, hivi, etc or even those branded speakers.
If have, could you share with me?
Much appreciated, thanks.
A list like that would give only a starting point. You can get the same thing using the factory plots by putting them into a crossover simulator.
That is another problem I have, the speaker drivers I can buy from my place here I cannot get ZMA and FRD files, I dont know how to generate these files.
Crossover simulator will need these infos, I am stuck here.😅😅
Crossover simulator will need these infos, I am stuck here.😅😅
There are several techniques moving down the list. You could start with generic driver models in the simulator and expect to tweak them by hand or you could make a no measurement style crossover. You might consider the expected baffle step and look at the sensitivities and adjust them using L-pads.
Perhaps it’s smart to point out which speaker units you can get your hands on? Members here can then suggest existing designs based on those units.
Do you have pictures / images of the frequency or impedance responses? If so - tools like VituixCAD can trace the responses for use in crossover simulation
There's a free tool called "fptrace" which I use and find a bit easier than Vituix: if you can get the manufacturer's Frequency Response and Impedance graphs you can use fptrace to generate the FR and ZMA files. I then input those files to Xsim (also free).
Most, if not all manufacturers provide these graphs, although sometimes various enthusiasts and designers will post their own measurements too. Sometimes the makers' graphs are very small or unclear, wich makes using tracing tools hard. Remember the GI-GO principle: Garbage In, Garbage Out.
However, some makers' graphs are more accurate than others and my understanding is that they're usually measured on an 'infinite baffle' - so the drivers' measurements will differ from a real life cabinet.
Here's an example of what I'm talking about: Paul Carmody's "Classix II" speakers:
The top one is the Xsim model, using the same crossover parts but with data obtained using the makers' graphs and fptrace. The second is how it measures in real life, from Mr Carmody's website (thank you Paul, I love those speakers!)
HTH
Geoff
Most, if not all manufacturers provide these graphs, although sometimes various enthusiasts and designers will post their own measurements too. Sometimes the makers' graphs are very small or unclear, wich makes using tracing tools hard. Remember the GI-GO principle: Garbage In, Garbage Out.
However, some makers' graphs are more accurate than others and my understanding is that they're usually measured on an 'infinite baffle' - so the drivers' measurements will differ from a real life cabinet.
Here's an example of what I'm talking about: Paul Carmody's "Classix II" speakers:
The top one is the Xsim model, using the same crossover parts but with data obtained using the makers' graphs and fptrace. The second is how it measures in real life, from Mr Carmody's website (thank you Paul, I love those speakers!)
HTH
Geoff
Geoff is correct and I should caveat - the use of "raw as provided" manufacturer curves are mainly for you to see how a simulation tool responds to your crossover design, so you can see what effect different filter topologies have on frequency response and impedance response.
The baffle introduces step and diffraction ripple. There are techniques to apply these to raw manufacturer data so your specific enclosure and baffle and driver placement is more true to life in lieu of taking actual measurements yourself.
The baffle introduces step and diffraction ripple. There are techniques to apply these to raw manufacturer data so your specific enclosure and baffle and driver placement is more true to life in lieu of taking actual measurements yourself.
Hello. Can someone help me with making crossover? First of all I understand some basic things how it works but for most part I'm noob. I have speakers US Blaster 4011 in custom box without their original crossover and I would like to make crossover for them. There is 2 woofers 1 midrange and 1 tweeter. Each woofer is 16ohm and mid and tweet are each 8ohm. So I would like of it's possible to make decent crossover for them but also I would like if it possible for them to stay in 8ohm range for amp. I guess if I connect them all parallel that would be easiest for crossover making but impedance won't me near 8ohm and I want to be 8ohm or at least 6ohm lowest. Any advice appreciated.
You can find a review here (pretty good actually)
https://www.tnt-audio.com/casse/usblaster4011_e.html
The filter in the pic seems pretty simple but it's not possible to identify its values.
It's something like this but it is a wild guess.
https://www.tnt-audio.com/casse/usblaster4011_e.html
The filter in the pic seems pretty simple but it's not possible to identify its values.
It's something like this but it is a wild guess.
Just to reassure you that, if connected as shown in the above schematic, the amplifier will see a load of 8 ohm at all frequencies - bass, mid and treble.
That is, the crossover components will ensure that the impedance of the speaker system as a whole will be 8 ohm.
I saw already that one review and there is just picture of crossover but also there is no any values visible on components. Thanks for schematic.
Thank you for that information. One of the most confusing things in crossovers design for me was exactly that and will speaker be connected parallel and be seen by amp as parallel unit or it will be for amp like separate and each of them for certain frequency would be good for amp required impedance. Thanks a lot.
Would it be safe if I use for tweeter filter resistor ceramic one 1.5ohm 5w or to put 2 of those in series according to schematic from post #11 , and also for woofer filter is it okay to use 2 smaller inductors in series, would they work like 1 bigger inductor ? Example 2x0.5mH in series would that be like 1mH inductor?
Sorry if questions are silly but I'm just noob and trying to make some use of parts which I have already. 😀
Sorry if questions are silly but I'm just noob and trying to make some use of parts which I have already. 😀
In your position I would set a budget, decide what type of speakers you would like and what space they are going in and then search for a design from a reputable designer with open source plans and just build them. Search for Troels Gravesen, Paul Carmody, Paul Kittinger, Jeff Bagby, Javad Shadzi, Zaph Audio, Denis Murphy, Rich Craig, Wolf, Jim Holtz, Humblehifi or Ampslab and there are probably a few more but a design from any of these will sound better than anything designed using manufacturers data.
As said the alternative is to get a calibrated microphone, measure the drivers with REW and then us something like Vituixcad to do the design. There are lots of tutorials on line that show how to take measurements and also use Vituixcad. This is not a short process and assumed that you have the budget to make mistakes.
As said the alternative is to get a calibrated microphone, measure the drivers with REW and then us something like Vituixcad to do the design. There are lots of tutorials on line that show how to take measurements and also use Vituixcad. This is not a short process and assumed that you have the budget to make mistakes.
I appreciate your opinion but in my case I think that wouldn't worth money and hassle. As I said before in post speakers which I bought are from us blaster 4011 boxes and I got them used pretty cheap for around 40 euros 6pcs shipping included and I already have my own boxes custom made which are pretty similar to original ones and now I just wanna give speakers second chance for life, nothing too fancy or hifi, just good enough for average ear and I'm trying to do that with parts which I have already laying around.