Was in B&Q today getting some plywood cut for a W bin.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
For those with the skills, tools and experience, I can understand the desire to make loudspeaker enclosures as works of cabinet makers art - but, is all that completely necessary to make what is in the end, just another box? What I don't understand is the fascination with workshops full of powered tools and machinery.
tapestryofsound
For those of us who've never encountered a B&Q, please do tell use what the heck they are. Bored & Quarrelsome? Bluebuck & Quagga? Bristles & Quills? Blueberries & Quinoa?
The suspense is killing me!
-Gnobuddy
B&Q are a diy shed who sell a lot of stuff the diy enthusiast might want.
Unfortunately everything they sell is at best described as mediocre in quality and much is downright c**p. But I don't think they are any worse than the rest, Everything is being manufactured down to a price, and not up to a standard, and it makes doing a job extremely frustrating.
Unfortunately everything they sell is at best described as mediocre in quality and much is downright c**p. But I don't think they are any worse than the rest, Everything is being manufactured down to a price, and not up to a standard, and it makes doing a job extremely frustrating.
Mixed with Canadian Tire and Princess Auto, perhaps? I think the quality at Home Depot is typically not as bad as Drewan mentions, and they supply a lot of professional contractors (as well as DIY types.)
-Gnobuddy
The thing is they are what we have, they supply as good stuff as is available in the UK, Mnp birch ply here.
They pay **** poor wages, minimum in fact, hence my very early attempt to suggest bung the guy a few "bucks,/euros/dollars"
Their sw facility however is spot on, way better than you could do at home.
My post was to say take advantage of this and take the hurt out of the job.
I did read at the depot only 5 free cuts, challenged the guy, " just tell me what you want"
Keep that guy onside, struggle with the other bits not basic squaring
They pay **** poor wages, minimum in fact, hence my very early attempt to suggest bung the guy a few "bucks,/euros/dollars"
Their sw facility however is spot on, way better than you could do at home.
My post was to say take advantage of this and take the hurt out of the job.
I did read at the depot only 5 free cuts, challenged the guy, " just tell me what you want"
Keep that guy onside, struggle with the other bits not basic squaring
Locally known as "Been and Queued", we all have a sense of humour. Sadly too busy at BHols and weekend as little other options at the price.
FWIW, There are two HDs on my route to work, and one of them - the Gordon Head location - is almost a joke, or should I temper that by saying they cater to a less discriminating clientele. I for one am quite willing to drive the extra 20mins to a location with a more sensible inventory. But then, I'm not buying my speaker construction materials from them - of any of the retail businesses, I'd patronize Windsor Plywood.
The B&Q 5 cut rule has been lifted. It's now 15 cuts free, then 50p each.
That drove me to getting one board chopped, paid for and stacked in the car. Then walking back in the store and getting the other board cut. Well... £7.50 is £7.50 and it was easy work to see that in my pocket, not theirs. (in needed the full 15 on both boards)
I will resize my pics, they seemed to do themselves yesterday, but today they're monstrous... Sorry about that.
That drove me to getting one board chopped, paid for and stacked in the car. Then walking back in the store and getting the other board cut. Well... £7.50 is £7.50 and it was easy work to see that in my pocket, not theirs. (in needed the full 15 on both boards)
I will resize my pics, they seemed to do themselves yesterday, but today they're monstrous... Sorry about that.
So I have made some progress with my boxes, and I got them to a point where they are looking pretty good.... the problem i have now is that there are some very, very fine gaps telegraphing on some joints (even after filling with 2 part wood filler and then sanding back with up to 600 grit sand paper). If you run your finger over them they are unnoticeable, but light and shadow shows them up.
I'm wondering what is the best way to deal with these? I'm hoping to take these boxes to a piano gloss type finish eventually, or as close as I can get!!
I think that going back to the 2 part wood filler and sanding is perhaps too aggressive for this job? should I just keep on building up the primer layers then sanding back? Or would I be better off using a very fine surface filler?
Pictures attached.....
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqbocGnuou-Qh9w5PmrYLt07GBx9yw
I'm wondering what is the best way to deal with these? I'm hoping to take these boxes to a piano gloss type finish eventually, or as close as I can get!!
I think that going back to the 2 part wood filler and sanding is perhaps too aggressive for this job? should I just keep on building up the primer layers then sanding back? Or would I be better off using a very fine surface filler?
Pictures attached.....
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqbocGnuou-Qh9w5PmrYLt07GBx9yw
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matt - i don't think you'll get the desired results trying to fill the gaps with paint/primer - they're not really meant for that. when sanding/surface prep try shining light on the areas to get a good look at any remaining defects. to fill the gaps, any basic wood filler will work; however; good adhesion is important. for best results, you should sand back to bare wood before applying the putty. fwiw, as a cabinetmaker, we sand wood to 120 for painted projects, lightly scuffing with 400 to give some tooth for additional or top coats. hope this helps
Matt, the issue you have is that different surfaces with different absorbances will lift or shrink.
You now need to seal the boxes with ANYTHING that is water/paint resistant.
Seal them, sand them, seal and sand again then finish. Any open surface will move when wetted, Even if veneering this holds true.
You now need to seal the boxes with ANYTHING that is water/paint resistant.
Seal them, sand them, seal and sand again then finish. Any open surface will move when wetted, Even if veneering this holds true.
After I glue up the enclosure I fill all joints with a generous application of elmer’s wood filler. I prefer it to any other wood filler I’ve used (incl 2-part).
After I sand back everything to flush, I use an oil-based primer in a spray can. I start by applying an initial coat to all seams, letting it dry, then apply another in good light, paying attention to any seams telegraphing through. Notice that even though you have “overfilled” these crevices, the crevice itself continues to telegraph through. These are the areas I apply the most primer and subsequently sand back more judiciously.
The third and fourth coats of primer cover the entire enclosure.
I sand back to flush with 220. The crevices should have disappeared at this point. My seams typically have a slightly thicker coat of primer on them than the rest of the enclosure, which is a small price to pay to get rid of seams. The primer is invisible after a few coats of paint anyhow.
After I sand back everything to flush, I use an oil-based primer in a spray can. I start by applying an initial coat to all seams, letting it dry, then apply another in good light, paying attention to any seams telegraphing through. Notice that even though you have “overfilled” these crevices, the crevice itself continues to telegraph through. These are the areas I apply the most primer and subsequently sand back more judiciously.
The third and fourth coats of primer cover the entire enclosure.
I sand back to flush with 220. The crevices should have disappeared at this point. My seams typically have a slightly thicker coat of primer on them than the rest of the enclosure, which is a small price to pay to get rid of seams. The primer is invisible after a few coats of paint anyhow.
I'm not sure if I'm keeping up. You have used a two part filler but still have gaps?
Telegraphing? I'm English and still don't get that one. I guess they opening up again, as people are talking about movement. The cheapest sealant I have seen was in tool station. About £8.50 a liter. B&Q took nearly twice that off me. Other options for low wetting sealant are acrylic or multisurface labeled products.
I think there shaping up nicely. Thankfully so has my embarrassingly bad sub box pictured. Though I didn't cut that, B&Q did. I just had to build as off square as they cut it.
Telegraphing? I'm English and still don't get that one. I guess they opening up again, as people are talking about movement. The cheapest sealant I have seen was in tool station. About £8.50 a liter. B&Q took nearly twice that off me. Other options for low wetting sealant are acrylic or multisurface labeled products.
I think there shaping up nicely. Thankfully so has my embarrassingly bad sub box pictured. Though I didn't cut that, B&Q did. I just had to build as off square as they cut it.
Thanks for all the comments, I did use a two part wood filler then I used an acrylic primer (Leyland). Sealing the insides is not something which occurred to me, but it's easy enough to do so I'll pop some on there too.
In hindsight (it's a wonderful thing) think the gaps are probably a result of not using quite enough filler (I took the view that I didn't want to have to remove too much because most of the surface was already good), but I can see in my wisdom I have probably just not added enough!
I'm going to try sanding back and then adding a bit more 2 pack, hopefully that will do the trick!
In hindsight (it's a wonderful thing) think the gaps are probably a result of not using quite enough filler (I took the view that I didn't want to have to remove too much because most of the surface was already good), but I can see in my wisdom I have probably just not added enough!
I'm going to try sanding back and then adding a bit more 2 pack, hopefully that will do the trick!
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