Another CL-34 owner had his upgraded to avalanche diodes would this make the sound better or better heat dissipation. Where can you use avalanche diodes in the PS board?
Also what would better using JJ or F&T dual 50uf caps or 2 radial caps of Nichicon or Elna or Panasonic?
For those who are interested i tried 3x mundorf 50+50uf:
50+50uf mundorf
And tried 6x 47uf 105° Panasonic if i remember well, i selected this option: better "air flow" this way. On my design you can choose whatever you want, the holes are present for both.
The boards are the same size,it's just the way the picture is taken.
I use 30v zener 6-7mm above the board for better heat dissipation.
50+50uf mundorf
And tried 6x 47uf 105° Panasonic if i remember well, i selected this option: better "air flow" this way. On my design you can choose whatever you want, the holes are present for both.
The boards are the same size,it's just the way the picture is taken.
I use 30v zener 6-7mm above the board for better heat dissipation.
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Hello Prologue,
Do you still have power supply pcb for CL34 I'm interested?
Best regards
Hi everyone! Huge fan of the forum. I recently snagged a cl34 and wasnt sire if the board looks intact or if some of the board has been removed? Also any mods or upgrades would be very much appreciate. Guts shots included!
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Wfm333 I have a CL-34 that I am looking to restore and am still figuring out the circuit and layout but I can give you some initial feedback on your unit. It certainly has had some issues in the past and has had some repair work done to it. The two immediately obvious things to me are 1. The large hole in the main power supply PCB and the corresponding piece of stripboard that has been added as a workaround fix. This seems to be a common problem area with the CL-34 and is presumably due to overheating of the bank of nine WZ-310 zener diodes that are connected in series to provide a 280V regulated voltage rail 2. The flexi cable that runs from the switch board at the front (dubbing, monitor, mode and pilot lamp) to the back of the main board near where the tape phono connectors are located, has been replaced by some regular stranded wire (it is in a loom with some white cable lacing tape/string). This seems to be another problem area with the CL-34 as mine has had a similar fix done in the past.
Thanks for your reply. Its a supeeb preamp. I feel like its at about 70% of its capabilities . A good service and recap will make a huge difference.
Hi guys, can somebody help to download owners manual and brochure from hifiengine and share here? Seems IPs from Belarus are blocked now and VPN doesn't help to log-in. Much appreciate your help.
My Cl34 is running the old phillips miniwatt valves. I have a few spare new tungsols , mullard, svetlana, sovtek that i was planning on rolling too hear if there is any improvement over the old miniwatts. Most advice i have read says that v1 and v2 are the most imprtant stages to try first. Is this the case with the cl34 too? Also should i worry about biasing etc compatibility with the rest of the miniwatts or just chuck them in and go with whatbsounds best?
Thanks!
Thanks!
I couldn't understand the schematic but apparently if i remember correctly.. left is v1 and v3 right is v2 and v6. Can someonw please confirm which tubes would have the most effect on sound qualitiy ? Thankyou!
Just wondering if these caps look like they are toast or if it is normal for the tops to look like this?
Would the owner of a healthy CL34 please list the following voltages while the preamp is working? The voltages I am interested in are:
1. P1, P4, P5, F1, F3 on the CB-A3034M PCB
2. F1, F2 on the CB-A3034H PCB
Thank you very much in advance!
1. P1, P4, P5, F1, F3 on the CB-A3034M PCB
2. F1, F2 on the CB-A3034H PCB
Thank you very much in advance!
