Hi all,
I have purchased a pair of Lowther DX4 silver coils. Now I am looking at a DIY cabinet for them. I red quite good reviews of Medallion II (III) cabinets. Link to Lowther America site, were originally cabinet designs available for download, doesn't exist anymore. Anybody has an idea were can I find those drawings?
Thanks
I have purchased a pair of Lowther DX4 silver coils. Now I am looking at a DIY cabinet for them. I red quite good reviews of Medallion II (III) cabinets. Link to Lowther America site, were originally cabinet designs available for download, doesn't exist anymore. Anybody has an idea were can I find those drawings?
Thanks
I think Jena Lab Medallion is the same cabinet
acc. to The Lowther Medallion II Loudspeakers
"The Medallion II cabinets were designed for Lowther Club of America by Jennifer Crock of JENA Labs"
acc. to The Lowther Medallion II Loudspeakers
"The Medallion II cabinets were designed for Lowther Club of America by Jennifer Crock of JENA Labs"
I already send PM to Jon Ver Halen. If I'm lucky to get drawings, I'll share my Lowther Medallion experience.
My current system: Visaton B200's in JE Labs OB, paired with WE91A style diyhifisupply 300B SET amp (amorphous OPT, silver wiring, tantalum resistors), passive preamp (also from diyhifisypply, amorphous TVC) and Consonance CD120 player.
Never had Lowthers before. Very interesting to compare with my OB's.
My current system: Visaton B200's in JE Labs OB, paired with WE91A style diyhifisupply 300B SET amp (amorphous OPT, silver wiring, tantalum resistors), passive preamp (also from diyhifisypply, amorphous TVC) and Consonance CD120 player.
Never had Lowthers before. Very interesting to compare with my OB's.
The wayback machine is your friend.
Link to original page: Medallion
I've also attached the pdf plans to this post. I can't honestly say it floats my boat, but YMMV and it probably won't suck like an elephant in a serengeti hoover factory after the dry season.
Link to original page: Medallion
I've also attached the pdf plans to this post. I can't honestly say it floats my boat, but YMMV and it probably won't suck like an elephant in a serengeti hoover factory after the dry season.
Attachments
Last edited:
Would you like me to be honest, or tactful?
Assuming the latter, the TP1, as it's a compound horn & has size on its side. The rest? No thanks. Too small, too heavily compromised. If you want a back-horn, and you want reasonable LF gain & extension, then the laws of physics dictate that you need bulk. Note that that is just my opinion, and many (probably most) will disagree.
Assuming the latter, the TP1, as it's a compound horn & has size on its side. The rest? No thanks. Too small, too heavily compromised. If you want a back-horn, and you want reasonable LF gain & extension, then the laws of physics dictate that you need bulk. Note that that is just my opinion, and many (probably most) will disagree.
...the laws of physics dictate that you need bulk...
So far there is only a Woden horn for the PM4a but it will give you an indication:
Dimensions 77.25x14x19.5" HxWxD (1962x356x495mm)
Lowthers are tricky to design for as the factory specs are not internally consistant in many cases.
dave
So far there is only a Woden horn for the PM4a ...
There will be more. Busy week as I'm away from home for a few days but will make a start.
So far there is only a Woden horn for the PM4a....
would like to hear how they sing... but those is beyond my skills...
DX4 Enclosure
I see that the plans magically appeared earlier, so me attaching them would be redundant. These go to about 65 hz, and drop like a rock in terms of low end response. Plan on a subwoofer. Integrating the sub is difficult, as the bass response is both out-of-phase (it is generated by the back of the cone) and has a time delay (because of length of the horn). Subs that have variable phase response should be considered.
Alternatively, try the All Fun Horn or Big Fun Horn. If you have room in the corners, these give much better bass response.
Best,
Jon
I see that the plans magically appeared earlier, so me attaching them would be redundant. These go to about 65 hz, and drop like a rock in terms of low end response. Plan on a subwoofer. Integrating the sub is difficult, as the bass response is both out-of-phase (it is generated by the back of the cone) and has a time delay (because of length of the horn). Subs that have variable phase response should be considered.
Alternatively, try the All Fun Horn or Big Fun Horn. If you have room in the corners, these give much better bass response.
Best,
Jon
If you want a back-horn, and you want reasonable LF gain & extension, then the laws of physics dictate that you need bulk.
What about an ML-BLH as a compromise between bulk/low tuning? I don't recall ever discussing this alignment on any of the forums other than as a ML-TQWT, which of course isn't the same.
I mean has anybody ever experimented with venting any of the so called BLHs that are just BVRs? IIRC they looked promising using MJK's software sims I did ages ago now, but don't have MC loaded, etc., to refresh my memory .
GM
These are off the Lowther website. Mind boggling carpentry skills needed.
Lowther Loudspeakers -
Try Googling: "Bob Brines Lowther".
A lot of info there. I think he is reckoned as the guru on Lowthers in MLTL speakers. I am not sure if he is still operating.
Lowther Loudspeakers -
Try Googling: "Bob Brines Lowther".
A lot of info there. I think he is reckoned as the guru on Lowthers in MLTL speakers. I am not sure if he is still operating.
those are big for my listening room.. unfortunatelyAlternatively, try the All Fun Horn or Big Fun Horn
My first idea was to build Bob Brine / MJK MLTL's. Plans are on web site Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker DesignTry Googling: "Bob Brines Lowther".
A lot of info there. I think he is reckoned as the guru on Lowthers in MLTL speakers.
But: I don't like idea of using BSC circuits... For me FR speaker means direct connection from amp OPT to driver w/o something in between.. Maybe it's just prejudice and I'm wrong...
Looks OK as long as one adheres to its rather large 2.25"/5.72 cm bend radius: https://catalog.belden.com/techdata/EN/9497_techdata.pdf
GM
GM
But: I don't like idea of using BSC circuits... For me FR speaker means direct connection from amp OPT to driver w/o something in between.. Maybe it's just prejudice and I'm wrong...
You're not if coupling to a high output impedance in general and a SET amp in particular; otherwise better to have sufficient power to handle transient peaks and use some form of EQ with variable DF tone controls like found on vintage electronics.
GM
My first idea was to build Bob Brine / MJK MLTL's.
I auditioned his first ones and in the ~near field were very impressive, but even then they would audibly distort on some transients and not always in a euphonic way like is the norm for vintage drivers or even their more modern/cheap 'clones' [IME], though they were SS driven, so maybe a different 'story' with 300Bs or similar.
GM
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