I can't edit for some reason but I tried the switch again and it worked! your diagram helped me out SOOO Much skull! i'm a fool when it comes to wiring like that, but it made it so much better!
The LED on the Switch still doesn't come on 🙁
<shakes fist>
The LED on the Switch still doesn't come on 🙁
<shakes fist>
cool im glad you got it going. yea it gets bright i cant wait to get my pj up and going my first one was a psone pj with a ohp bulb and i wasnt happy with brightness sence i could only see it at night in a dark room so 400w should be great. keep us updated on your pj
safety warning!
Don't forget that MH lamps put out tons of UV light. (Even the ones that have UV-blocking outer glass still put out a lot.) Even though it looks white, it has enough UV in it to severely damage your eyes or to give you a bad sunburn.
ALWAYS wear UV blocking sunglasses or welder's goggles if you will be looking right at a bare lamp while it is running. If you have to reach into the box to make an adjustment, make it quick or else wear long sleeves and gloves.
Even with UV blocking, these lamps are bright enough to leave major blank spots in your vision for a while. It is like staring at the sun!
They also get very hot, but you should never touch their glass with your bare hands anyway even if it is cold. Just like halogen lamps, you don't want fingerprints on the surface because that can overheat the glass.
Finally, please try not electrocute yourself or your family! Ballasts put out 5000 volt spikes during startup, and then enough power to kill you after that. Get everything insulated and clamped down. If you are not familiar with power wiring, please at least get your work inspected by an electrician or electronics tech.
Don't forget that MH lamps put out tons of UV light. (Even the ones that have UV-blocking outer glass still put out a lot.) Even though it looks white, it has enough UV in it to severely damage your eyes or to give you a bad sunburn.
ALWAYS wear UV blocking sunglasses or welder's goggles if you will be looking right at a bare lamp while it is running. If you have to reach into the box to make an adjustment, make it quick or else wear long sleeves and gloves.
Even with UV blocking, these lamps are bright enough to leave major blank spots in your vision for a while. It is like staring at the sun!
They also get very hot, but you should never touch their glass with your bare hands anyway even if it is cold. Just like halogen lamps, you don't want fingerprints on the surface because that can overheat the glass.
Finally, please try not electrocute yourself or your family! Ballasts put out 5000 volt spikes during startup, and then enough power to kill you after that. Get everything insulated and clamped down. If you are not familiar with power wiring, please at least get your work inspected by an electrician or electronics tech.
Hey thanks for the Advice Guy, I never looked into the arcI figured that would be bad, is there any particular way to mound the ballast, Ignitor and Cap?
mounting parts
It's up to you. I used some aluminum formed into nice curves and screwed to the box frame, to mount my capacitor and ignitor. (Don't squash them.) I used the metal brackets that came with the ballast to bolt it to my box frame. The ballast is very heavy, so you should think about mounting it in a way that spreads out all that stress (if your box is flimsy), and to keep it low so the box doesn't tend to fall over.
The only other major issue is to shield all of those parts from direct exposure to the lamp light. Don't want to overheat them.
It's up to you. I used some aluminum formed into nice curves and screwed to the box frame, to mount my capacitor and ignitor. (Don't squash them.) I used the metal brackets that came with the ballast to bolt it to my box frame. The ballast is very heavy, so you should think about mounting it in a way that spreads out all that stress (if your box is flimsy), and to keep it low so the box doesn't tend to fall over.
The only other major issue is to shield all of those parts from direct exposure to the lamp light. Don't want to overheat them.
ok guys since eveyplace is back orderd on the UHI-S400DD USHIO
is it the ONLY bulb we can use for this ballast that will work for projection ? i finnaly have the money to order one .. but now i cant get one .. and since i have the ballast im not gunna switch to a regular MH ballast and bulb... im almost just went down to homedepot and got the brightest halogon they had ... and then tried to cool it ...
is it the ONLY bulb we can use for this ballast that will work for projection ? i finnaly have the money to order one .. but now i cant get one .. and since i have the ballast im not gunna switch to a regular MH ballast and bulb... im almost just went down to homedepot and got the brightest halogon they had ... and then tried to cool it ...
well my prob is i have the money now.. and might not later .. that and the subout on my reciever isnt working ..... so thats driveing my crazy so i want to get a new reciever .... and i have found a few for what im willing to pay...... witch isnt much but if i do that then ill be waiting o n money again to buy the bulb .. when it comes available again.... lets just say i am very impatient.
I'm also interested in finding an alternative bulb. It will be more than just a few weeks wait from what I was told, more like a few months. In the meantime I wouldn't mind buying an inferior (hopefully inexpensive) bulb to use with the ballast so I can at least continue the project. Anyone have a suggestion?
well i found 2 that i think will work ... but am not sure the only prob is there not that cheap and there color temp is like 2000k
witch from what i know is way to low here is one
http://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_Description.asp_Q_intProductID_E_46876
and heres another
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product.php?product=27
witch from what i know is way to low here is one
http://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_Description.asp_Q_intProductID_E_46876
and heres another
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product.php?product=27
this place seams to have them but cost a bit more
http://www.businesslights.com/product_info.php?products_id=1402
http://www.businesslights.com/product_info.php?products_id=1402
you see they have a one year lamp warranty .. .. is that wierd or is it just me..... hmm i might still get there even with the high price
ok if what we want is around 5000k color temp .. what happens at the 2100k color temp ? is that blue ?
ok if what we want is around 5000k color temp .. what happens at the 2100k color temp ? is that blue ?
if your still looking for the ushio bulb dpc has them for sale
http://www.diyprojectorcompany.com/designs/pico_cutting_panels_en.htm
http://www.diyprojectorcompany.com/designs/pico_cutting_panels_en.htm
yea i saw that i just didnt wanna bite the bullet and pay $50 for bulb ... plus shipping .. when atlanta has them for $37 + shipping..... o well im moveing very soon so ima wait till i move then order
cool just thought id let people know if they couldnt wait for atlantic to get them in there was a second option
hey there does anyone know how to hook some fans up to one of these ballasts? I may have up to 3, would they be okay?
yes, fans are good!
The usual choices are 12 VDC fans or fans that match your local AC power (ie. 120 VAC 60 Hz in the US). If you use DC fans, then you will need a 12 VDC power supply that can drive them.
Lots of different styles of fan. Most builders use a little box fan like a PC power supply fan. Those are pretty quiet, and that is something you want.
AC fans can be wired up to the hot side of your power switch and the neutral wire of the line cord. Or you could include a dedicated switch just for the fans, so you could leave them running for a few minutes after you shut off the lamp.
With DC fans, you can connect them directly to their power supply and then wire the AC input of the power supply as above.
Simple, if you know anything about wiring electricity. If not, please find somebody locally who does. It is not worth your life or burning down your house just to save a few bucks.
The usual choices are 12 VDC fans or fans that match your local AC power (ie. 120 VAC 60 Hz in the US). If you use DC fans, then you will need a 12 VDC power supply that can drive them.
Lots of different styles of fan. Most builders use a little box fan like a PC power supply fan. Those are pretty quiet, and that is something you want.
AC fans can be wired up to the hot side of your power switch and the neutral wire of the line cord. Or you could include a dedicated switch just for the fans, so you could leave them running for a few minutes after you shut off the lamp.
With DC fans, you can connect them directly to their power supply and then wire the AC input of the power supply as above.
Simple, if you know anything about wiring electricity. If not, please find somebody locally who does. It is not worth your life or burning down your house just to save a few bucks.
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