AdamThorne said:
It has been my intention to start a dedicated Tysen thread for sometime, but i just haven't had the time yet. I will probably take advantage of the new forums coming up to kick one off in the Planet10-hifi Marketplace thread.
We have been VERY pleased at how well this speaker has come out. Next experiment is to do up a PLLXO with just the HP buffered using a pair of EVUL's B1-turbo buffers.
I am nearing completion of the drivers for the MTMs and laid the drivers out last night to get a hint of what they'll look like.
dave
Attachments
planet10 said:
Looking good, but where's the ductseal? I've got some extra if you need it... I take it you're going to keep the plastic trim ring? I was thinking about going without due to concerns with the hollow underside causing a resonance; instead I filled the cavity with duct seal.
The sheen looks familiar, but I haven't tried enabling yet. Maybe for the first round of mods.... I'm experiencing a time crunch now, my wife's due with our first kid at the end of May. Hopefully my speakers will be wailing before the little one, otherwise it may be a bit before they get tested.
Hi,
I just got pointed this way by Dave.....
I too am looking towards some kind of low end reinforcement for my fonkens. Also want to build them as stands (such a neat idea Dave) and I have 4 B&W drivers that I could use providing they suit.
I suppose I am pretty lost at this and really don't know where to begin. Having said that heres a couple of wishes:
1. I would like to use just the drivers I have (save $$).
2. I would really like to just use these with a crossover and not have to go active if at all possible. External is fine, but not biamping etc.
3. They should fit under the fonkens as stands.
4. Be workable with my current amp (pass F5)
The cabinet work is not really a problem, but the designing I would like to learn more about. That and the crossover calculation.
Is there a primer somewhere that a fella should look to to get a handle on this? Don't want to bug you fellas endlessly with the kind of stuff I should know already.
Thanks,
Fran
I just got pointed this way by Dave.....
I too am looking towards some kind of low end reinforcement for my fonkens. Also want to build them as stands (such a neat idea Dave) and I have 4 B&W drivers that I could use providing they suit.
I suppose I am pretty lost at this and really don't know where to begin. Having said that heres a couple of wishes:
1. I would like to use just the drivers I have (save $$).
2. I would really like to just use these with a crossover and not have to go active if at all possible. External is fine, but not biamping etc.
3. They should fit under the fonkens as stands.
4. Be workable with my current amp (pass F5)
The cabinet work is not really a problem, but the designing I would like to learn more about. That and the crossover calculation.
Is there a primer somewhere that a fella should look to to get a handle on this? Don't want to bug you fellas endlessly with the kind of stuff I should know already.
Thanks,
Fran
Not to hand.
Would have loved to have kept this passive, but from your comments it seems that it ain't to be.
What about building some kind of chipamp kit from ebay or similar? Is there something you would recommend?
Theres a velleman 200W kit (K8060)? Is this complete crap or would that kind of kit be ok for this app? If its complete rubbish I can probably try to get my hands on an older receiver/amp if needs be.
Fran
Would have loved to have kept this passive, but from your comments it seems that it ain't to be.
What about building some kind of chipamp kit from ebay or similar? Is there something you would recommend?
Theres a velleman 200W kit (K8060)? Is this complete crap or would that kind of kit be ok for this app? If its complete rubbish I can probably try to get my hands on an older receiver/amp if needs be.
Fran
My 1st inclination is to keep an eye open for a 70s amp/receiver at a thrift store or boot sale... they nicely repurpose for sun amps.
Since your paralleled impedance will be 8 ohms a high voltage chip amp will work too... Plate amps would be OK, but ones with built in XOs could get in the way.
dave
Since your paralleled impedance will be 8 ohms a high voltage chip amp will work too... Plate amps would be OK, but ones with built in XOs could get in the way.
dave
So far, at least with my set up, active is definitely the way to go. I've got a little class T Trends integrated and it really benefits from having the strain of powering the low end taken off of it. I'd imagine an F5 would outclass the Trends a bit, but I'm sure it would still benefit as well.
The kit I got was about $120 USD and came with everything you'd need to use it, save some sort of chassis. I upgraded the RCA jacks and got a metal chassis and spent a bit more, as is always possible in this hobby.
In your situation, Fran, I guess the first thing would be to figure out the parameters of the drivers you have. Then you can start figuring out what type of box you'd need and how big, etc.
The kit I got was about $120 USD and came with everything you'd need to use it, save some sort of chassis. I upgraded the RCA jacks and got a metal chassis and spent a bit more, as is always possible in this hobby.
In your situation, Fran, I guess the first thing would be to figure out the parameters of the drivers you have. Then you can start figuring out what type of box you'd need and how big, etc.
OK,
I've out the word out looking for an older SS amp of >50WPC. Hopefully one will wander my way.
No hope I think of getting any kind of measurements on these drivers - just too long out of production and google turns up very little. The only bit of info I can get is that the original crossover was 1st order butterworth with a 1kHz crossover freq.
Fran
I've out the word out looking for an older SS amp of >50WPC. Hopefully one will wander my way.
No hope I think of getting any kind of measurements on these drivers - just too long out of production and google turns up very little. The only bit of info I can get is that the original crossover was 1st order butterworth with a 1kHz crossover freq.
Fran
planet10 said:
Yeah, I went the easy road; I'm green and impatient.
I bought this kit: http://www.audio-kits.com/catalog/item/4071180/3884480.htm
So far so good, it does it's job, has pots for the high pass outputs. I know it's not the end-all be-all of XO's, but I'm happy.
woodturner-fran said:
I would think that not having any of the parameters might make it pretty difficult to come up with decent results in a reasonable amount of attempts.
There are computer applications that measure driver parameters, the one I've seen was at partsexpress.com and retailed for around $100, IIRC.
Another thing to keep in mind, you could get four matched drivers for +/- $100, exclusive of shipping. I know Madisound has Silver Flutes for about $22 each that may work well.
Either way, spending a bit more money up front may end up saving it in the long run by cutting back on wasted wood (not to mention your time).
strider75 said:
For just a couple drivers, manual is the cost effective way.
http://diysubwoofers.org/measure.htm
I have all the calvulations in a SS
dave
strider75 said:
Yeah, I went the easy road; I'm green and impatient.
I bought this kit: http://www.audio-kits.com/catalog/item/4071180/3884480.htm
So far so good, it does it's job, has pots for the high pass outputs. I know it's not the end-all be-all of XO's, but I'm happy.
That is a decent looking one to keep in mind... dig you get the op-amp upgrades?
Here is a pic of my Tysen XO. Fonken + extened range woofers could be 4 parts simplier (and if you could install the HP cap in the amp you are using even less.
dave
Attachments
planet10 said:
Nah, I want to get a good baseline to work with, make sure my system has the right synergy, and once I get that handled see what I can do to tweak it incrementaly. That and the upgrade was something like $40 additional, IIRC, and damn if I'm not frugal, too.
There is a slight bit of hiss evident, but I really have to listen for it. I've been running it without the cover, however, and I don't think that helps. At some point I'm going to look into a passive line level XO. Currently I'm running a B1 into the active XO with it's op amps and associated circuity, and I don't think it's doing the B1 the justice it deserves. I like the philosophy of simple is better. All in it's due time.
planet10 said:
Good link- Thanks, Dave.
Another link that includes details of the 'added mass' method for getting to Vas (and a spreadsheet as well) is at
Rod Elliott's site
Be aware that different box modelling programs/spreadsheets demand varying numbers of T-S parameters. Data like Le can be tricky to get, so picking the right box program can help to make things simpler, if not necessarily more accurate/reliable. (This is my rookie experience after spending some time checking out different freeware/software solutions available online.)
John
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.