It was the use of foam core I was getting at. They produced it as an alternative to the Celestion aerolam enclosures. I'm not sure why it disappeared from the market - technical reasons, perceived value (too light) or logistics (too easily damaged in shipping or in shops).
Tom Evans did something similar with his foam enclosure Eikos FR1.
Apologies for the threadbomb - this should be in the foam core thread rather than the TL.
Tom Evans did something similar with his foam enclosure Eikos FR1.
Apologies for the threadbomb - this should be in the foam core thread rather than the TL.
No worries, I was just curious when you said the 780 was similar only to look it up and see a small 2 way sealed bookshelf. Several other manufacturers use composite foam core that I am aware of. People should start using wooden faced honeycomb panels used in marine construction. That looks like wood, is very strong and stiff but much lighter.
No, not tiny but a manageable size not unlike many 5in monitors - just a bit deeper. But they weigh nothing! The front baffle profile is pretty small though at 6in wide an 14in tall.
The 30Hz came from boundary reinforcement as desk is near a back wall and the desk itself. I boosted the left channel with +3dB low shelf 80Hz Q=0.7 to match the additional gain the right speaker has as it is closer to side wall. That's it though and the response before was transformed to the flat shelf you seen when desk mounted.
The 30Hz came from boundary reinforcement as desk is near a back wall and the desk itself. I boosted the left channel with +3dB low shelf 80Hz Q=0.7 to match the additional gain the right speaker has as it is closer to side wall. That's it though and the response before was transformed to the flat shelf you seen when desk mounted.
Yes, they are sticky and attract dust like a magnet. Don't saw or cut wood near them! You just have to get used to the fact that they won't be pristine when used in a normal household environment. Not the best choice for speakers to be used in a wood working shop
With a moist lint free towel you can wipe some of it off. Use tweezers to pick off bigger stuff. Be careful about using sticky tape to pull dust off - it will rip the get coating off. The non-hardening gel coat is what makes it sound smooth. It is a damping agent similar to the sticky stuff Dayton and Tang Band put on the interface of the surround and cones on some drivers.The DC28F seems to cross acoustically nicely at 1300Hz, with -6dB/oct Butterworth electrical high pass filter at 2kHz in my case. You could use a -24dB/oct LR at 1.2kHz probably and it would sound nice.
I have some non-sticky domes too and they don't sound as smooth. So despite the inconvenience, in the end, it is about sound quality for me so I live with it.
Just one look at the response and you will have a hard time finding a smoother tweeter at any price:
http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/275-070-dayton-audio-dc28f-8-specifications-46121.pdf
Yes, they are sticky and attract dust like a magnet. Don't saw or cut wood near them! You just have to get used to the fact that they won't be pristine when used in a normal household environment. Not the best choice for speakers to be used in a wood working shop
The DC28F seems to cross acoustically nicely at 1300Hz, with -6dB/oct Butterworth electrical high pass filter at 2kHz in my case. You could use a -24dB/oct LR at 1.2kHz probably and it would sound nice.
I have some non-sticky domes too and they don't sound as smooth. So despite the inconvenience, in the end, it is about sound quality for me so I live with it.
Just one look at the response and you will have a hard time finding a smoother tweeter at any price:
http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/275-070-dayton-audio-dc28f-8-specifications-46121.pdf
Thank you
I feel much better now about this choice. This is my firs large project (kind off copying S. Linkwitz top baffle) I was going to use 24dB LR at 1600hz, but I may lower it to something like 1500hz. Woofers are 8" HDS205 Nomex. So with 8" woofers I need to cross as low as possible. Thank you. I really value your response.
I have looked at that driver and actually designed a speaker around it. It's not smooth and is low sensitivity. Dayton is known for good value but I am not sure this driver can be said to be a good value for that kind of money. Much better is the RS150P-8. Great smooth response with 1st breakup peak up in 5k rather than 2k. 90dB sensitive, correct lower Qts for a compact TL, only 1mm less xmax, looks nice, and is $44. With baffle step loss you are at 85dB overall sensitivity. The ES is 84dB so you would be at 79dB after baffle step loss (and then some).
Thanks for the info XRK!
I already have both drivers so I guess I'm just going to have to build a ported enclosure using BassBoxPro6.
In a 10.3litre box, the f3 is 45hz with a 45mm port that is 265mm long.
The other nice thing with a simple ported enclosure with those drivers is that using linkwitz, or bessel I don't need to add any resistors.
Thanks again, and I'll probably be making a foam core next year with the dayton's you've chosen to make my own version! I already made an Audel Nika with a TB-315SE using foam-core. The stuff is great for a mock-up!
I already have both drivers so I guess I'm just going to have to build a ported enclosure using BassBoxPro6.
In a 10.3litre box, the f3 is 45hz with a 45mm port that is 265mm long.
The other nice thing with a simple ported enclosure with those drivers is that using linkwitz, or bessel I don't need to add any resistors.
Thanks again, and I'll probably be making a foam core next year with the dayton's you've chosen to make my own version! I already made an Audel Nika with a TB-315SE using foam-core. The stuff is great for a mock-up!
You really should try the TL as drawn in the plan - it really is very different (in a great way) compared to a plain bass reflex. It's not really that complicated. If you look at the box plan, it essentially 3 internal dividers that act as bracing that you would normally have to add to a box anyway. If making out of 0.5in ply just 3 extra small rectangular boards need to be glued in place. The add stuffing and you will be in for a treat with deep bass that is low distortion and tight.
Are you saying that I should try the es140ti in the same box?
If so, I'll give it a shot.
I'm not so concerned by sensitivity as I only listen in near-field. Also live in an apartment. I run a kt66 in pentode so about 8-9 watts of tube power and have ELAC 310IB's as my main speakers. I just enjoy playing with new drivers.
Your enclosure's look awesome, and your graphs look very promising.
I'll take your word for how good they sound.
I'm no bass head! but I do enjoy clean bass that extends as low as possible.
Thx!
If so, I'll give it a shot.
I'm not so concerned by sensitivity as I only listen in near-field. Also live in an apartment. I run a kt66 in pentode so about 8-9 watts of tube power and have ELAC 310IB's as my main speakers. I just enjoy playing with new drivers.
Your enclosure's look awesome, and your graphs look very promising.
I'll take your word for how good they sound.
I'm no bass head! but I do enjoy clean bass that extends as low as possible.
Thx!
If you're willing to do a simulation, I'd be grateful.
I had bought the drivers originally to be a bass driver in a 3 way setup.
I got them for a good price, and they just look pretty so I figured why not buy them.
I just want to see if it will work.
Thanks XRK!
I had bought the drivers originally to be a bass driver in a 3 way setup.
I got them for a good price, and they just look pretty so I figured why not buy them.
I just want to see if it will work.
Thanks XRK!
Oh sorry, I have been on travel for past 5 days and did not have chance to do it carefully. My first cut shows it will require a significant reduction in volume of TL. Basically changing TL from 5:4:3:1.5 ratio to 4:3:2:0.75 and width at 5.5in as the Vas is so much smaller. The overall sensitivity is only about 80dB and extension appears to be similar in 55Hz range in 4 pi. Are you still interested if you can only get 80dB sensitivity?
Thanks mate for looking into it a bit further.
I've decided that a simple bass-reflex is probably going to be best for this driver combination.
I will likely build your low-cost PMC-style enclosure in a few months once I'm bored with the new build which starts over the weekend!
Thanks again XRK! People such as yourself are what makes this forum great fun!
K
I've decided that a simple bass-reflex is probably going to be best for this driver combination.
I will likely build your low-cost PMC-style enclosure in a few months once I'm bored with the new build which starts over the weekend!
Thanks again XRK! People such as yourself are what makes this forum great fun!
K
Good luck with the BR! Let me know when you need help making the DC130A TL. I was listening to them again last night and struck by the excellent balance and ability to dig deep without sounding stressed. Played some classic rock from 60's and Hendrix's Watchtower sounds awesome as well as Santana's "Evil Ways" then went to some modern jazz and it sounds great, then some pop with deep synth bass lines and it sounds great. One of the best compact "all arounders" I have that can handle anything you throw at it.