Looking for very good bass driver

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Well,
I am starting my new subwoofer project. I have an enclosure idea witch I would like to test and I want this sucker to go low, and when I mean low I mean low. I would like the thing to go to at least 20Hz if not 10-15Hz :devilr:. The reason being is I would like to increase the bass window that you really can feel. I don’t want to have too big of an enclosure but it can be probably up to 10 Cubic Ft. (about 283.2 liters). I haven’t decided on what type of enclosure I am going to use but I think it will ether be a vented or one of the two bandpass type of designs. The bandwidth does not have to be huge but I do want the response to flat from say 10-100hz (most DVD sub sound tracks only go to 80hz right? Can a bandpass enclosure get that type of bandwidth?). I would like to use a driver with rubber surround rather then treated foam because it lasts longer. I prefer poly cones but other materials are ok as well. I only prefer poly because I worry about other materials like paper ether breaking up or getting loose over time at fairly high levels. I am looking to be paying no more then $400.00 dollars on the driver but if this is not feasible then please post suggestions of ether less or more cost so I can see what there is available to me. Also can PRs tune the box that low?

Thanks,
Slice :devilr:
 
heheh my 10 was a kicker c10 it was so bagged i bought it for 20 and used it in a ported box then a friend said hey try these ( instructions to the bandpass box) and i did and WHOLY CRAP if i had money and wanted bass id build anothere one it was so power full and so pure i ran 140 watts into it and crap it was freakin loud i loved it i still to this day prefur it over my 15" usd in a ported box and i can probably bet that the bandpass was louder even though my 15 was bigger and handled more power..

if i was more nuts id build 2 of the same ones or 2 x 10" in on box and just enlarge the enclosure..
 
Subwoofer

Slice,

You don't have to spend $400 on a driver to go that low, and, especially, when you have 10 ft3 to work with, then a flat frequency response from down LOW to 100 hz will not be a problem. Put an Adire Audio Tempest in that size box, ported and tuned to 15-16 hz and you will have what you desire, with only $150 spent on the driver.

Cheers,

Dave
 
Blueprint 1803

For something that should be enough for most people (then again there are always those who'll put a LAB-Horn in their living room ;-) would blow this setup away with a mere couple of Watts or so) A Blueprint 1803 should fit the Bill quite nicely in a 10 cu. ft. enclosure tuned to 18 Hz (or even below). A quick run through the numbers with WinISD show a response that will start rolling off slowly below 40 Hz(F3) to about 15 Hz (F10), but Goup Delay is closer to that of a traditional sealed box in the frequency range in which you are likely to encounter significant energy content and the ported configuration affords you the extension (add a room to the equation and you will most likely more than satisfy your bandwidth critereon and you can always EQ the thing). Cunstructing the port for such a beast might be a bit of a problem though (I personally wouldn't use a round port at those dimentions anymore) and excursion limited power (1000W RMS) should be available down to about 15 Hz.

Now add some Organ recordings into the fray and let 'er rip.

I'm not sure about the foam situation (aren't they rot-resistant these days?) Anyone have any specifics? Also their website moved, looking for their new address.
 
Ex-Moderator
Joined 2002
Hi Slice,

Here is a very comprehensive list of speaker manufacturer links.
http://members.chello.se/jpo/driveunits.html

Below is a picture of one of my endtable subwoofers. They're 4.5cu.ft and the speakers are TAD 1601a's (about $500USD/pr. on eBay). They are tuned over damped with an electronic boost for a theoretical flat response to about 22Hz.

Enjoy:)
Rodd Yamas***a
 

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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Joined 2001
Just thought that I would mention that 2 ten inchers have the same cone area as one fifteen incher. So if you want to move the same amount of air as a fifteen incher but don't want a fifteen, that is one way to go.

Two twelve inchers have just a little less air moving ability than one eighteen incher.

One more thing. If you have two speakers and run them on different channels of the amp, the sensitivity goes up 6 dB. So if you have one ten inch woofer that plays at 90 dB on one watt input, then doubling the enclosure volume and adding a second ten incher connected to a different channel playing at one watt will make the setup play at 96 dB. (of course you want to adjust the port length). :)
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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JasonL said:
why is that true.. why wouldent you just put them in paralle and get 4 ohm speakers and drive them like that.. im thinkin about 4 10's 2 x 10" per box then have my small eithere towers or small satelite speakers. on top..

1/Many amps (most actually) don't really like 4 ohm loads.
2/ if your stereo amp doesn't bridge into mono, it is a way of getting both channels in play (again much more conservatively -- both channels see 8 ohms instead of the 2 ohms they would see with the amp bridged driving a 4 ohm speaker)

A BIG possible advantage of 2 drivers is that can be loaded push-push. The pus-push combination cancels most of the Newtonian load generated by a moving speaker and thereby it is not passed on to the box, making the box work & sound better.

dave
 
--Two twelve inchers have just a little less air moving ability than
--one eighteen incher.

Wouldn't you have to overdrive the 12's to get the same
low freq. output as the 18" playing a modest volume?

If you over drive 12's to get the same results, won't
distortion increase alot compared to the 18" playing a
modest volume ?

If an array of 12's is better, why do prosound folks
use arrays of 18's ? hehe
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
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