Unfortunately those would be over kill. I had some large PSB goldi's running at one point, they were too large for the particular room, although being vented is a big consideration. They were boomy at times, more than I liked. Great speakers in the right room.
Those are beautiful but too large and possibly to much for me to undertake 🙁
In reference to size, no bigger than say a Klipsch Cornwall and no smaller than a Heresy. A sealed design about the size of the Heresy that could work good on 28" or 30" stands.
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I have Dynaudio in a vented arrangement and there small. Stand mount small. The Dynaudio woofer's help them reach low, bass notes, be them drums or a Cello or bass guitar or an organ or kick drum gets reproduced faithfully. I always feel confidence playing Dynaudio drivers. They play hard while keeping there composer. If the recording was done well I feel they taunt me to serve up more current, never to let me down they deliver like champs. It doesn't matter weather its Rap or Classical or hard Rock to heavy metal dance or house.
In this case I have my woofer brand picked out, but no they aren't Dynaudios. I think I will be going with Morel's, fairly certain.
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Thanks for helping me sort out my speakers fella's.
I'll surprise you on exact specifics when I get to unbox the woofers and come up with a suitable baffle design. Its not going to be complex, a simple and effective 6 sided slightly box =). Perhaps something that combats standing waves. I do at least half of my planning in the moment. Sometimes thats good, sometimes bad.
Stuffing material, I already chose rockwool, unless theres something better. Distributed evenly throughout, and not too tight.
to meet my criteria..
Loud, punchy and controlled,
sealed,
Did I mention loud?
Main objective : to feel crystal clear well defined bass rattle my organs. Though the MF an HF are just as important. I'm looking among Morel and Scanspeak for the higher frequencies.
I'll surprise you on exact specifics when I get to unbox the woofers and come up with a suitable baffle design. Its not going to be complex, a simple and effective 6 sided slightly box =). Perhaps something that combats standing waves. I do at least half of my planning in the moment. Sometimes thats good, sometimes bad.
Stuffing material, I already chose rockwool, unless theres something better. Distributed evenly throughout, and not too tight.
to meet my criteria..
Loud, punchy and controlled,
sealed,
Did I mention loud?
Main objective : to feel crystal clear well defined bass rattle my organs. Though the MF an HF are just as important. I'm looking among Morel and Scanspeak for the higher frequencies.
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I wanted Tetra 406's for the longest time. Something had me thinking they were sealed, there not. Doesn't matter, they sound great.
I got to thinking today, how cool would it be to clone the 406s in a sealed version?
I'm not sure if my cabinet making good enough to pull a pair off. I'm somewhat of a perfectionist, I can see myself not being happy with them if the joints were shoddy. That or I could go through extra material until I get them right. If needed. But thats not logical.
The Tetra's are Made over here too. I think I want to go for a clone build....I'll give it some more thought.
I got to thinking today, how cool would it be to clone the 406s in a sealed version?
I'm not sure if my cabinet making good enough to pull a pair off. I'm somewhat of a perfectionist, I can see myself not being happy with them if the joints were shoddy. That or I could go through extra material until I get them right. If needed. But thats not logical.
The Tetra's are Made over here too. I think I want to go for a clone build....I'll give it some more thought.
Attachments
I made a set in the '90s. May I suggest you don't use the idea of cloning if you can't track everything down. Instead just work out a suitable volume for a woofer of your choice, calculate the size of the front panel then try to fit the two on to it. If it doesn't look good then change the cabinet size or change the woofer to bring on a different cabinet size... maybe you would prefer to do this in the reverse order 😉
As an owner of an AR-1*, let me point out that the essences of the AR-3 have not be presented clearly in this thread. Here's my best memory.
You have two upper-range drivers with excellent dispersion and a woofer with a very low Fo (maybe 13 Hz) in a well-stuffed 1.4 cu foot box with the thickest walls anybody ever used before or since. And a somewhat complicated XO (like all good XOs) and volume adjustments (depending on the model).
The sound is wonderful, neutral, clean and with a speaker peak around 38 Hz (guess), a surprisingly satisfying bass in a small box.
I wish I knew where you could buy a woofer driver like that. Anybody know? In the absence of such a driver, you could duplicate the AR-3 with a more conventional driver and a larger box.
B.
*placed in a carefully researched location in my music room, quite a good sub-woofer. And only 65 year old.
You have two upper-range drivers with excellent dispersion and a woofer with a very low Fo (maybe 13 Hz) in a well-stuffed 1.4 cu foot box with the thickest walls anybody ever used before or since. And a somewhat complicated XO (like all good XOs) and volume adjustments (depending on the model).
The sound is wonderful, neutral, clean and with a speaker peak around 38 Hz (guess), a surprisingly satisfying bass in a small box.
I wish I knew where you could buy a woofer driver like that. Anybody know? In the absence of such a driver, you could duplicate the AR-3 with a more conventional driver and a larger box.
B.
*placed in a carefully researched location in my music room, quite a good sub-woofer. And only 65 year old.
To help understand it could you maybe explain what that is... wide, narrow, varying, something else?
The Morel's that were recommend earlier on. How would pyramid shapes be any different than more conventional boxes? Its still a matter of lining up the interior boundaries to suit, no?
I can't understand why that wouldn't work. A sealed cabinet is a seal cabinet. What am I missing?
What components did you load them with back then? The Morel's that were pointed out could work. Its a matter of lining up the interior boundaries to suit, no?
..a sealed cabinet is a seal cabinet. What am I missing?
The more I want to built the pyramids..
Yes, to some degree the closed box is just a closed box, no matter what it looks like. This way involves the bass resonance.
There are two basic ways it could be different, one is the way that internal reflections happen inside the box. Some feel it is better to change the shape of the box by tilting walls so they aren't parallel. This is also the reason we use damping material inside the box.
The other is the exterior diffraction. Some feel it is better to vary the distance to the cabinet edges and choose different shapes for this. This is also the reason people round over the edges.
There are two basic ways it could be different, one is the way that internal reflections happen inside the box. Some feel it is better to change the shape of the box by tilting walls so they aren't parallel. This is also the reason we use damping material inside the box.
The other is the exterior diffraction. Some feel it is better to vary the distance to the cabinet edges and choose different shapes for this. This is also the reason people round over the edges.
I follow ya, interesting.
I first learned about how bass benefits with asymmetrical walls when the box makers started coming up with interesting sloped tops, and contoured baffle bodies to combat reflections.
I had to be different, but not if I can get it to work well lol. Something inspired triangular speaker stand bases I started working on, because they will go great will with the cylindrical shaped posts that come next (will show you what I mean later), and then I got reminiscing to myself about the Tetra's...
I'm in no real rush theres time to decide. I swore I wouldn't start to many things all at one time....
I first learned about how bass benefits with asymmetrical walls when the box makers started coming up with interesting sloped tops, and contoured baffle bodies to combat reflections.
I had to be different, but not if I can get it to work well lol. Something inspired triangular speaker stand bases I started working on, because they will go great will with the cylindrical shaped posts that come next (will show you what I mean later), and then I got reminiscing to myself about the Tetra's...
I'm in no real rush theres time to decide. I swore I wouldn't start to many things all at one time....
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acoustic_Researchhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acoustic_suspension
" Even though acoustic suspension cabinets are often called "sealed box" designs, they are not entirely airtight. A small amount of airflow must be allowed so the speaker can adjust to changes in atmospheric pressure. A semi-porous cone surround allows enough airflow for this purpose. Most Acoustic Research designs used a PVA sealer on the foam surrounds to enable a longer component life and enhance performance. The venting was via the cloth spider and cloth dust caps, not so much through the surround."
https://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/ar94rebuild_e.html
" Hold on, now, I asked, excuse me if I'm wrong, but aren't speakers electro-mechanical devices? Don't the Thiel-Small parameters include some mechanical values as well? I mean, you can't just change the surround for any other surround, as you change the mechanical parameters, which WILL influence the sound, exactly how remains to be seen, er, heard. Yes, he said, but I've been repairing AR speakers for decades now, and I have long ago discovered a German manufacturer who supplies rubber surrounds for specific speakers. AR's 8" units are high on their list."
I hope that helps ! 🙂
" Even though acoustic suspension cabinets are often called "sealed box" designs, they are not entirely airtight. A small amount of airflow must be allowed so the speaker can adjust to changes in atmospheric pressure. A semi-porous cone surround allows enough airflow for this purpose. Most Acoustic Research designs used a PVA sealer on the foam surrounds to enable a longer component life and enhance performance. The venting was via the cloth spider and cloth dust caps, not so much through the surround."
https://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/ar94rebuild_e.html
" Hold on, now, I asked, excuse me if I'm wrong, but aren't speakers electro-mechanical devices? Don't the Thiel-Small parameters include some mechanical values as well? I mean, you can't just change the surround for any other surround, as you change the mechanical parameters, which WILL influence the sound, exactly how remains to be seen, er, heard. Yes, he said, but I've been repairing AR speakers for decades now, and I have long ago discovered a German manufacturer who supplies rubber surrounds for specific speakers. AR's 8" units are high on their list."
I hope that helps ! 🙂
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I REALLY like those AR-94s'. I seem to have trouble deciding on these things. Fortunately some perfect condition psb stratus minis' delayed my woofer purchase. These little guys are power hungry. But there extremely accurate and nice with a high current amp on the larger side.