Hi, my dad called me up and asked if I could have a look at some old "radio tubes".
I asked him just to tell me what it said on the boxes.
"Well, you better get in the car and drive over here instead".
So I drove, and then my jaw struck the garage floor.
There where thousands of them.
A few hundred in boxes and far more just mixed in cardboard boxes. No info regarding if they are used, new or broken.
So, I guess that I have some sorting to do and I might as well look for a way to separate the bad from the good so I can sell them.
So.... What do I need?
There is a sub 100$ machine on eBay which has its own thread here and then there are DIY versions.
But I have far to much to do and expenses to go with them.
So budget and time is in short demand.
So advice is appreciated.
Kind regards!
I asked him just to tell me what it said on the boxes.
"Well, you better get in the car and drive over here instead".
So I drove, and then my jaw struck the garage floor.
There where thousands of them.
A few hundred in boxes and far more just mixed in cardboard boxes. No info regarding if they are used, new or broken.
So, I guess that I have some sorting to do and I might as well look for a way to separate the bad from the good so I can sell them.
So.... What do I need?
There is a sub 100$ machine on eBay which has its own thread here and then there are DIY versions.
But I have far to much to do and expenses to go with them.
So budget and time is in short demand.
So advice is appreciated.
Kind regards!
Attachments
Looking at your stash, you will require an older type of valve tester for the old valves.
A lot of the newer testers have not got the bases to fit.
If you want to build one, grab a known good design, select the bases you require, the pin outs you need and put it together.
If you were in the UK I have an AVO 160 that I can test them all for you but knowing the Swedish Customs people, they will charge you tax on any returns from testing.
The attachments may be useful to you.
A lot of the newer testers have not got the bases to fit.
If you want to build one, grab a known good design, select the bases you require, the pin outs you need and put it together.
If you were in the UK I have an AVO 160 that I can test them all for you but knowing the Swedish Customs people, they will charge you tax on any returns from testing.
The attachments may be useful to you.
I have seen some that just take a regular tester, like the one I posted, and add the sockets needed.
Wire all No1 pins together and then to a bananaplug, repeat with the other pins and then just use bananawires to connect the socket you want.
Wire all No1 pins together and then to a bananaplug, repeat with the other pins and then just use bananawires to connect the socket you want.
Sorry but I didn't see a link to testers.
I would track down someone local to you and do a deal either borrowing a tester or to get them to test for you.
Some cheaper testers just show conduction of heaters and anode - cathode.
Good luck and I hope you find one.
Even one of these; Digital Vacuum Tube Tester Full Kit with LCD Display | eBay you will be very limited.
I would track down someone local to you and do a deal either borrowing a tester or to get them to test for you.
Some cheaper testers just show conduction of heaters and anode - cathode.
Good luck and I hope you find one.
Even one of these; Digital Vacuum Tube Tester Full Kit with LCD Display | eBay you will be very limited.
If you have some (programmable) bench power supplies available, plus some crocodile clamps, you could do something along these lines (scroll down to see tube examples): GitHub - mbrennwa/PyPSUcurvetrace: Python program for I-V curve tracing of electronic parts using programmable power supplies
I got a reply from the seller.
He didn't recommend this since I seem to have tetrodes and pentodes.
He recommended another one which handles these and also rectifiers.
But I found this which seems lika an alternative.
A low cost, easy to build diy valve/tube tester | Valve Heaven
Find a used commercially produced tube tester.
One thing about testers. They can tell you a tube is bad, but they really are not good at telling us a tube is good. If a tester says bad tube, I believe it. But testers rarely put real world voltages and currents through a tube. And testers rarely test for noisy or for microphonics.
One thing about testers. They can tell you a tube is bad, but they really are not good at telling us a tube is good. If a tester says bad tube, I believe it. But testers rarely put real world voltages and currents through a tube. And testers rarely test for noisy or for microphonics.
Ok, what is the simplest and cheapest way to test if a tube works?
Preferably the more common octal and Novak tubes.
ECC-family, el34, 6v6 and such.
Preferably the more common octal and Novak tubes.
ECC-family, el34, 6v6 and such.
An old Taylor 45C valve tester would cover your valves (tubes ) .
I used to own one long ago but its just basic and not up to my Avo VCM MK4 which I spent months renovating .
That would at least give you an indication , I added bases by using old valves to make up a converter .
I notice you have a SC European base pentode they are from the ,30,s .
The actual cheapest way is to get an old amplifier and try them out --making sure non have shorts to the elements first.
I used to own one long ago but its just basic and not up to my Avo VCM MK4 which I spent months renovating .
That would at least give you an indication , I added bases by using old valves to make up a converter .
I notice you have a SC European base pentode they are from the ,30,s .
The actual cheapest way is to get an old amplifier and try them out --making sure non have shorts to the elements first.