Yes, Indeed, that's It!
Did I Say that the box is too big?
Let's see...uhm...the sensitivity chart showed much less ( it's logarithmical)dB sensitivity than 95/96 dB, talking about the D54...
I was watching at the new faital 4fe42, which Is 'fullrange' (recent thread in multi-way talked about the difference in design of a 'pure' midrange from a full range ) and hits 90 dB. Those drivers are probably used in 'line arrays'...
So it's possibile to use instead of a 6fe100 this Little 4fe42, theoretically
But the form of the dustcap Is a replica of a dome, so needs to be cut! But, why, why all this struggling for having miniature speakers..? Indeed these ramblings are for finding a low midrange
In a 4-way...
For a 3 way should be a 6-7 " midbass
So the widest choice of speakers on Earth!
Now I would advocate someone to tell somebody that a 6" in that 50x100 baffle that developes in depth another 50 cm and needs Aid from an adiacent source (with different assigned band) that works with smaller wavelenghts...
I mean, the baffle works for radiation, call It a 180° horn, and ..
Why worry?
Did I Say that the box is too big?
Let's see...uhm...the sensitivity chart showed much less ( it's logarithmical)dB sensitivity than 95/96 dB, talking about the D54...
I was watching at the new faital 4fe42, which Is 'fullrange' (recent thread in multi-way talked about the difference in design of a 'pure' midrange from a full range ) and hits 90 dB. Those drivers are probably used in 'line arrays'...
So it's possibile to use instead of a 6fe100 this Little 4fe42, theoretically
But the form of the dustcap Is a replica of a dome, so needs to be cut! But, why, why all this struggling for having miniature speakers..? Indeed these ramblings are for finding a low midrange
In a 4-way...
For a 3 way should be a 6-7 " midbass
So the widest choice of speakers on Earth!
Now I would advocate someone to tell somebody that a 6" in that 50x100 baffle that developes in depth another 50 cm and needs Aid from an adiacent source (with different assigned band) that works with smaller wavelenghts...
I mean, the baffle works for radiation, call It a 180° horn, and ..
Why worry?
Davor D and or Jawen, is this the same thing As the Beyma driver you mentioned?
https://usspeaker.com/beyma 12BR70-1.htm
is that a reputable site?
https://usspeaker.com/beyma 12BR70-1.htm
is that a reputable site?
Yes it that one!
Don´t know anything about site usspeaker.com, but have bought 15-20 times from
https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/speaker-beyma-12br70-8-ohm-12-inch.html
111 $ each in France
Is there a 10" version of that woofer?
A 10" driver would integrate better with a 2" dome midrange, an 8inch would be even better
A 10" driver would integrate better with a 2" dome midrange, an 8inch would be even better
Unfortunately they don't have it in stock untill end of May. Some other european shops I checked are also currently out of stock.
It seems like that driver is little scarce at the moment.
Do you mean Dynaudio D54?
Its 250W rms. If xo point is 1000Hz then some 15% of total power goes to it.
To fully utilize that, you would need 1400W rms woofer to cover the rest 85%
I can see how this isn't a straightforward thing to answer properly, so thanks for the reality check. I'll try again.
Would you agree that it's best to have more power than the tweeter would actually use so that amplifier distortion isn't an issue and the tweeter isn't restricted by it..? The amount is going to be less than the figure you quoted.. there's no benefit to having excessive power available and that would also restrict your choice of amplifiers.. not something you want with tweeters.
As an example of what I'm talking about, I watch my tweeters on an oscilloscope while listening to loud music, before choosing an amplifier power to use. As it turns out, 1W is much more than I need.
Would you agree that it's best to have more power than the tweeter would actually use so that amplifier distortion isn't an issue and the tweeter isn't restricted by it..? The amount is going to be less than the figure you quoted.. there's no benefit to having excessive power available and that would also restrict your choice of amplifiers.. not something you want with tweeters.
As an example of what I'm talking about, I watch my tweeters on an oscilloscope while listening to loud music, before choosing an amplifier power to use. As it turns out, 1W is much more than I need.
Not sure I got this completely, but I think I wrote something similar in #100. When you take into account headroom necessary for transients, the actual power is much less than rms.
Normally, woofer is more powerful than midrange, and midrange is more powerful than tweeter.
But, D54 is exceptional driver and we have tight budget to find suitable woofer and tweeter that will match it well in already made box and with available 150W amp.
So, my comments and recommendations are based on that.
Normally, woofer is more powerful than midrange, and midrange is more powerful than tweeter.
But, D54 is exceptional driver and we have tight budget to find suitable woofer and tweeter that will match it well in already made box and with available 150W amp.
So, my comments and recommendations are based on that.
For a 1500 W amp the forementioned SB Nero series 800 W woofer would suffice!
The crossovers for Pro drivers use coils with larger diameter wire and usually have protection for the tweeters
Nothing else...well, something changes...did I tell you that big drivers at home don't work?
The crossovers for Pro drivers use coils with larger diameter wire and usually have protection for the tweeters
Nothing else...well, something changes...did I tell you that big drivers at home don't work?
Ok Moondog55 and anyone else who asked. Please feel free to laugh, but here are the drivers which I currently have in my cabinets (one set in each cabinet)
1 pair Dr. Crankenstein high voltage series 12 inch woofers. I have no and cannot find any information on these. The best I’ve seen (which isn’t helpful) is here https://www.diymobileaudio.com/thre...stion-this-is-not-another-sub-question.31356/
the other 2 are the aw1251se on here. Decent car audio subs, but that’s all I had to use in these speakers and why I’m wanting to re-do them now.
1 pair Dr. Crankenstein high voltage series 12 inch woofers. I have no and cannot find any information on these. The best I’ve seen (which isn’t helpful) is here https://www.diymobileaudio.com/thre...stion-this-is-not-another-sub-question.31356/
the other 2 are the aw1251se on here. Decent car audio subs, but that’s all I had to use in these speakers and why I’m wanting to re-do them now.
You are wrong. I listen to two 500 w AES capable 1505-8KADT 12 hours a day in my house. Lowest distiortion speaker I've ever heard in this flyover city. 15" diameter, crossed at 1800 hz, 12 db/octave. The sound doesn't change as I walk around my 14'x33'x11' music room. Which means the dispersion is adequate from 11' away which is as close as I sit. I listen at 1/8 to 25 watts/ch. I did power them to 70 w/ch once with earplugs to test an amp for max power. My current amp is 75 w/ch, a M-2600.
I was reading recent posts and laughing as the herd was trying to guide OP into a 10" woofer "that would blend better with the mid". D54-AH mid is -2 db @ 1000 hz compared to 2000 hz. Beta-12a is is +3db @ 1000 hz compared to 200 hz. Would be wimpy 40-100 hz bass from an 8" or 10" woofer IMHO. See page 5 of the beta-12a cabinet download for the "low tunedbass guitar" design that is flat at 50 hz, -3db at 40 hz, -3db 1000 hz. Since the D54AH is 32 db 1w1m ("see the chart") a resistor would be required series the woofer to blend with it. Personally I would buy a 98 or at least a 96 db 1w1m mid. The RX22 mid+tweeter in my SP2(2004) are 111 db 1w1m and can be flat 17000- 800 hz if you want to limit the cabinet to 175 W AES (1985 version SP2).
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Ouch! You put a lot of numbers in your posts but you fail on the one that counts! Ok, I thougt it was 96...go figure! But next you fail in design: between thousands of woofers in the market, why can't you choose for the right one? What does it mean : put a resistor in series with the wf?! Usually I see 1-3 Ω before the midrange, better, an L-Pad, because it might be too 'hot', and that's the practice.
The jpg spec of d54af shows 96 db 1w1m, the chart on the pdf file shows 16 db or 31 db depending on which axis label you use. That chart was measured at 2.83 v. I suppose small labels are amplitude, large labels are wattage, but who knows?
I wouldn't resist the beyma 12br70 that davor d did a sim on, it has more xmax than beta-12a. But davord didn't do an xmax plot at 30-50 hz. eminence did assert in their low tuned bass cabinet design that beta-12a was okay at 75 watts. Which the OP has , probably in his yamaha 150. I find veering off into 10" woofers rather shocking after all the discussion of low bass. The beyma 12br70 is $155 + freight added at usspeaker.com today, eminence beta-12a is $120 free freight. I've never used that vendor.
I have a pair of KLH23 10" + 3" cone 2 ways. They are nice but not commanding. One woofer quit, probably because I walk around the room with the tone arm on the LP, and excursion was an inch without a low cut in the mixer. Probably tore the ribbon to the winding, exceeded Xlim. The elder at the church complained about too much bass on organ with Peavey 1210 speakers, so I replaced woofer in the KLH23 with a 88 db 1w1m parts-express model. Is definitely softer bass than the original woofer cabinet.
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Yes, for my purposes, I think I’ve narrowed it to the Beyma or the Eminence (unless I’m missing something) and I was not really looking for smaller than a 12 inch woofer unless that was intended as part of a 3.5 way setup Moondog55 had mentioned.
what about the xmax plot at 30-50hz?
Thanks for the continued guidance and input everyone.
what about the xmax plot at 30-50hz?
Thanks for the continued guidance and input everyone.