Not a good choice if you ask me, Vas and Qts are too big for your box. You'll get a big bump in bass response. Check large vented box recomended by Eminence, Vb=6 cu.ft. Fb=47,8 Hz. It has 5dB bump around 75 Hz. Good for open stage, but not for home listening rooms.
Actually, I wouldn't use that driver in a vented box at all. Qts is more suitable for closed.
Another potential issue is matching with midrange. If you download the additional data for Dynaudio D54 in post #27, you can see the frequency response. Its 96 dB/W/m but that starts to drop below 1500-1600 Hz. So, to match the efficiencies, x-over point should not go lower than that. And 1500-1600 Hz is a bit high for 15in driver.
If you go with Eminence, I recomend Beta 12A. One per box.
Max linear alignment gives Vb=185 Lit. Fb=41,5 Hz.
Eminence large vented box is Vb=4,75 cu.ft (135 Lit.) Fb=45 Hz.
Your box is in between with 160 Lit, so Fb=42-43 Hz should work fine and give good bass extension.
Yes, tweeter must match efficiencies of woofer and midrange. That one looks good.
There is something I am not understanding here.
What's wrong with the speakers as currently built?
Personally I'd not try and mate a 50mm dome midrange to a 300mm woofer but I am usually happy with the bass of a couple of 12inch woofers, sealed or ported and usually I prefer sealed in large boxes.What do you want to achieve ?
What's wrong with the speakers as currently built?
Personally I'd not try and mate a 50mm dome midrange to a 300mm woofer but I am usually happy with the bass of a couple of 12inch woofers, sealed or ported and usually I prefer sealed in large boxes.What do you want to achieve ?
Well, a Little renewal would benefit!
double bass as original- why not ?
The horizontal horn? Put some Raven tweeter in there! Fountek? None?! Dayton AMT?
And about woofers, limiting the choice to three old chassis design Is frustrating!
double bass as original- why not ?
The horizontal horn? Put some Raven tweeter in there! Fountek? None?! Dayton AMT?
And about woofers, limiting the choice to three old chassis design Is frustrating!
Moondog55, i haven’t taken the current woofers out to see what they are but I remember they were old car subs I had which required a lot of power and were very inefficient. The current tweeters sound terrible. At the time, I picked them up for $20 and slapped them in. So I get a lot of really harsh treble and not a lot of return on the low end. Though they’ll play very low, I have to push them HARD to produce much sound. I figured this would be the time to change things since I can get some extended time off and have money to put toward the project. The boxes are the only thing I’m desperate to keep because they have sentimental value to me. The rest can be adjusted.
Davor, much obliged for your thoughts as well, thank you. I appreciate people offering advice where I am uncertain.
OK Now I understand better.
The dome mid is a good one [ I use a Peerless with similar spec] but it would work better with a driver somewhat smaller than 12"
More work perhaps but what about a 3.5 using a reasonable 6" or 8" midwoofer and keep one of the existing 12" as a bass boost down low [ the .5 driver] using a single big inductor around that baffle step frequency.
These are reasonable and good value
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DC160-8-6-1-2-Classic-Woofer-295-305?quantity=1
These are a bit better
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...sb16pfcr25-8-6-paper-cone-woofer-8-ohm-round/
The dome mid is a good one [ I use a Peerless with similar spec] but it would work better with a driver somewhat smaller than 12"
More work perhaps but what about a 3.5 using a reasonable 6" or 8" midwoofer and keep one of the existing 12" as a bass boost down low [ the .5 driver] using a single big inductor around that baffle step frequency.
These are reasonable and good value
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DC160-8-6-1-2-Classic-Woofer-295-305?quantity=1
These are a bit better
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...sb16pfcr25-8-6-paper-cone-woofer-8-ohm-round/
I'll stay out of the mid discussion initiated post 47. I've been assuming the 12' woofer only has to handle below 800 or 1200 hz.
Here is a thread showing the use of unibox software to calculate bass reflex response for woofer. Several experts weigh in on the advantages of different design calculations, particularly for a 12" faital 12pr300 . https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/basic-question-about-bass-reflex-alignment.396836/ Post 19 lists four solutions for that woofer which has fs 47 vas 4.24 cuft or 120 l, qt of .46 somewhat similar to beta-12a but more excursion of 7.37 mm instead of 4.4 for the beta-12a. I respect the opinions of several of the posters like scottmoose GM timuikku diyiggi allenb and wolf_teeth. Note these are generic designs, not tuned for the room. I personally intend to do room tuning with a $50 used graphic equalizer, although people with smart phones tend to use DSP between line level source & amp. Original poster's box is 5.7 cuft which is bigger than 4.2 cuft VAS which is good for low bass but requires care to not blow xmax below 100 hz and damage the driver.
Has OP ordered omni mike, interface to PC, cables yet? Can't measure response without that. I use a kitchen stool for speaker stand and a $10 used camera tripod for mike stand instead of a purpose built mike stand. Tripod requires a diy mike adapter of rubber block, plastic or wood.
Here is a thread showing the use of unibox software to calculate bass reflex response for woofer. Several experts weigh in on the advantages of different design calculations, particularly for a 12" faital 12pr300 . https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/basic-question-about-bass-reflex-alignment.396836/ Post 19 lists four solutions for that woofer which has fs 47 vas 4.24 cuft or 120 l, qt of .46 somewhat similar to beta-12a but more excursion of 7.37 mm instead of 4.4 for the beta-12a. I respect the opinions of several of the posters like scottmoose GM timuikku diyiggi allenb and wolf_teeth. Note these are generic designs, not tuned for the room. I personally intend to do room tuning with a $50 used graphic equalizer, although people with smart phones tend to use DSP between line level source & amp. Original poster's box is 5.7 cuft which is bigger than 4.2 cuft VAS which is good for low bass but requires care to not blow xmax below 100 hz and damage the driver.
Has OP ordered omni mike, interface to PC, cables yet? Can't measure response without that. I use a kitchen stool for speaker stand and a $10 used camera tripod for mike stand instead of a purpose built mike stand. Tripod requires a diy mike adapter of rubber block, plastic or wood.
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Ehm, I'll stay out from the discussion started at #48
I'm asking First: what would you want to do? Choices...maybe guided by your listening preferences, otherwise you would accept any suggestion.
I already gave my contribution on Page 2.
That meant - tabula rasa, litterally
No, I haven’t acquired any of the mic, cables, or interface nor do I know what I’m doing with that. I’m completely unfamiliar with software for designs. I’m not against it, that’s just a whole new world to me.
my listening tastes are very wide and again, I’d like to be able to cover as close as possible to the full audio spectrum with the box and mid I have. I can change the tweeters and definitely need to change the woofers. I’m just trying to figure out how to maximize the mid bass and low bass with the cabinet I’ve got. I want to be able to hear the organ and double bass with classical. I want to be able to have the thump of R&B or Rap and I also want to hear detail and good sound with classic rock and classical pieces.
if I run multiple woofers in a cabinet, what do I do if they are 8 ohms? The 2 (that are inefficient and require far, far more power than my home amp can supply) which I have now are each 4 ohms, so it made it simple for me to run them in series to look like a single 8 ohm woofer. Unfortunately I can’t even begin to drive them as is made worse by their low efficiency (I believe they were 86db or somewhere like that).
I just want to know how to match and maximize the low end assuming I have a decent mid and tweeter covered.
as for a complete restart I have the attachment to the cabinets as those were gifts and handiwork from family members. I also have a very unfortunate budget limitation I have to work within. so I do t think I can afford to start over from scratch.
I really do truly appreciate the thoughts and contributions people are willing to give.
my listening tastes are very wide and again, I’d like to be able to cover as close as possible to the full audio spectrum with the box and mid I have. I can change the tweeters and definitely need to change the woofers. I’m just trying to figure out how to maximize the mid bass and low bass with the cabinet I’ve got. I want to be able to hear the organ and double bass with classical. I want to be able to have the thump of R&B or Rap and I also want to hear detail and good sound with classic rock and classical pieces.
if I run multiple woofers in a cabinet, what do I do if they are 8 ohms? The 2 (that are inefficient and require far, far more power than my home amp can supply) which I have now are each 4 ohms, so it made it simple for me to run them in series to look like a single 8 ohm woofer. Unfortunately I can’t even begin to drive them as is made worse by their low efficiency (I believe they were 86db or somewhere like that).
I just want to know how to match and maximize the low end assuming I have a decent mid and tweeter covered.
as for a complete restart I have the attachment to the cabinets as those were gifts and handiwork from family members. I also have a very unfortunate budget limitation I have to work within. so I do t think I can afford to start over from scratch.
I really do truly appreciate the thoughts and contributions people are willing to give.
Look at the Part Express site
Other than chassis
, you can look at the makers corner, or how Is It named, which Is DIy contributions.
Ok, most are BT boxes but there are 'categories'!
Now I understand: you want to keep them the way they are. So it's a big woofer down, a middle mid size woofer and the 2" dome mid at top Left and something at topR. It's rectangular, that's why I suggested a planar, though It should be vertical, but that's not the worst thing in the design.
So, yes, embark in the journey of chosing the drivers and make the necessary partition in order to let them reproduce freely the band assigned...via the crossover. Oh, that meant the suggestion to bring all that paraphernalia in order to sacrifice It to the sacred Altar of Science!
Yes, post #48 probably mean this.
dB, watt, meters, sensitivity et all, good journey at the PE site and Many others!
Other than chassis
, you can look at the makers corner, or how Is It named, which Is DIy contributions.Ok, most are BT boxes but there are 'categories'!
Now I understand: you want to keep them the way they are. So it's a big woofer down, a middle mid size woofer and the 2" dome mid at top Left and something at topR. It's rectangular, that's why I suggested a planar, though It should be vertical, but that's not the worst thing in the design.
So, yes, embark in the journey of chosing the drivers and make the necessary partition in order to let them reproduce freely the band assigned...via the crossover. Oh, that meant the suggestion to bring all that paraphernalia in order to sacrifice It to the sacred Altar of Science!
Yes, post #48 probably mean this.
dB, watt, meters, sensitivity et all, good journey at the PE site and Many others!
If your choice of music includes classical & pipe organ, you would want system Q 0.7 for flat response with a smooth roll off going down below f3. That determines how to size & vent the box for response. System Q of 1.2 is for boom box, a 5 db rise half octave rise above the final roll-off.
I'm happy with one woofer per box, I don't hear distortions on the ones I own. In fact the boxes I own have charted harmonic distortion 2nd harmonic 25 db down from response @ 5 watts 50 hz to 11 khz, 3nd harmonic 25 db down from response 50 hz to 8 hz. 99% of home listening will be below 5 watts on a 98 db 1w1m package. Parties where you use 75 watts/ch, well everybody is talking over the music anyway.
I'm a physicist, I'm all in favor of taking advantage of mathematics & measurements to achieve a goal, My goal is flat response 54 hz to 14 khz (above which I am deaf). Your goal appears to be flat response 30 hz - ? which might be doable. Unibox is free software and runs on excel spreadsheet, or according to the website has been tested with some linux op systems as I have. Or I can make some amplitude response predictions with equations from David B. Weems book that can be run on a calculator or calculator program, for troglodytes like me. There are nice simulation charts from unibox in the thread linked to in post 48, unfortunately for a 6.5" woofer.
Then after I purchase some drivers, and build a box I would have to tweak it with measurements to achieve what I bought at a store, (+-3 db 54-17 khz HD 25 db down) but that store speaker could be stolen tomorrow, since pawnshops will buy them.
Davor D post 41 indicates possible of good result achieving your goal with beta-12 in your box, but the inability of your Dynaudio D54 to support flat response down to 800 or 1200 hz indicates a problem. I don't know mids because I already own tweeters that are flat 800 hz to 17 khz up to 70 watts. Peavey RX22 1.4" CD on used peavey horns. The pair cost me $170 on ebay. The whole 3 way experience leaves me blah. passive crossover components supporting 70 watts cost ~$20 each and you usually need 6 or 10 in a crossover for a 3 way. Alternately triamping a 3 way involves 3 sterso amps heating up the planet up to 14 hours a day (at my house) plus 1 or 2 DSP's. I want passive for one stereo amp. So I'm building ugly 2 ways that might not be stolen. I can't see the specs on the dayton mid moondog posted, parts-express locked up my computer. In my limited mid-driver experience, some 6.5" visaton bh17-8 which is flat 100-5000 hz & +-5 db to 14000 hz. 93 db 1w1m a bit inefficient compared to a beta-12a. I used BG17-8 as sole speakers in bass reflex boxes in my TV room, also in the ceiling of the back of the church to carry the sermon back there.
You could save a ton of money and tweaking time +crossover components with a 2 way, IMHO. My SP2(2004) have 4 crossover components.
I'm happy with one woofer per box, I don't hear distortions on the ones I own. In fact the boxes I own have charted harmonic distortion 2nd harmonic 25 db down from response @ 5 watts 50 hz to 11 khz, 3nd harmonic 25 db down from response 50 hz to 8 hz. 99% of home listening will be below 5 watts on a 98 db 1w1m package. Parties where you use 75 watts/ch, well everybody is talking over the music anyway.
I'm a physicist, I'm all in favor of taking advantage of mathematics & measurements to achieve a goal, My goal is flat response 54 hz to 14 khz (above which I am deaf). Your goal appears to be flat response 30 hz - ? which might be doable. Unibox is free software and runs on excel spreadsheet, or according to the website has been tested with some linux op systems as I have. Or I can make some amplitude response predictions with equations from David B. Weems book that can be run on a calculator or calculator program, for troglodytes like me. There are nice simulation charts from unibox in the thread linked to in post 48, unfortunately for a 6.5" woofer.
Then after I purchase some drivers, and build a box I would have to tweak it with measurements to achieve what I bought at a store, (+-3 db 54-17 khz HD 25 db down) but that store speaker could be stolen tomorrow, since pawnshops will buy them.
Davor D post 41 indicates possible of good result achieving your goal with beta-12 in your box, but the inability of your Dynaudio D54 to support flat response down to 800 or 1200 hz indicates a problem. I don't know mids because I already own tweeters that are flat 800 hz to 17 khz up to 70 watts. Peavey RX22 1.4" CD on used peavey horns. The pair cost me $170 on ebay. The whole 3 way experience leaves me blah. passive crossover components supporting 70 watts cost ~$20 each and you usually need 6 or 10 in a crossover for a 3 way. Alternately triamping a 3 way involves 3 sterso amps heating up the planet up to 14 hours a day (at my house) plus 1 or 2 DSP's. I want passive for one stereo amp. So I'm building ugly 2 ways that might not be stolen. I can't see the specs on the dayton mid moondog posted, parts-express locked up my computer. In my limited mid-driver experience, some 6.5" visaton bh17-8 which is flat 100-5000 hz & +-5 db to 14000 hz. 93 db 1w1m a bit inefficient compared to a beta-12a. I used BG17-8 as sole speakers in bass reflex boxes in my TV room, also in the ceiling of the back of the church to carry the sermon back there.
You could save a ton of money and tweaking time +crossover components with a 2 way, IMHO. My SP2(2004) have 4 crossover components.
Maximising the low end is best achieved [ IMO/IME] by using two amplifiers and Bi-Amping using external crossovers with DSP or your ears.
Amplifiers are cheap when found used but that needs for the pre-amp being separated from the main power.
If your old Yamaha amplifier had that function that would be my suggestion.
It's also one of the cheaper options
Running two 8R woofers in parallel works for most of us, most amplifiers will handle a 4R load easily enough.
High efficiency and deep bass aren't often found together in one driver and those that do are often quite expensive and beyond my level of expertise and budget; however running two 8R 12" woofers in parallel would be what i would do in that box and that should be of reasonable efficiency to keep up with the mids
Amplifiers are cheap when found used but that needs for the pre-amp being separated from the main power.
If your old Yamaha amplifier had that function that would be my suggestion.
It's also one of the cheaper options
Running two 8R woofers in parallel works for most of us, most amplifiers will handle a 4R load easily enough.
High efficiency and deep bass aren't often found together in one driver and those that do are often quite expensive and beyond my level of expertise and budget; however running two 8R 12" woofers in parallel would be what i would do in that box and that should be of reasonable efficiency to keep up with the mids
Hi there.
For woofer Beyma 12 BR70 is real good quite high up. ( 12 inch 90dB )
https://usspeaker.com/beyma 12BR70-1.htm
111 $ each in France at
https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/speaker-beyma-12br70-8-ohm-12-inch.html
For midrange ; Faithal Pro 6FE200 ( 6,5 inch 90 dB )
https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/speakers/cone-speaker/speaker-faitalpro-6fe200-8-ohm-6-5-inch.html
For tweeter: SB26adc : ( 90 dB )
https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/do...-c000-4-impedance-4-ohm-voice-coil-26-mm.html
106 $ for 2 tweeters
108$ for 2 midrange
222$ for 2 woofers
Total 436 $ plus shipping from France 👍
If you order all 3 from the same distributor in France the shipping will be ok.
Good luck!
Regards John
You are on a tight budget and you want to keep the original box.
You could use two of the low end Dayton woofers
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DC300-8-12-Classic-Woofer-295-320?quantity=1
That would leave you about $200- for crossover parts, those drivers parallel in that box sealed and stuffed would give you plenty of bass but I do think that asking those woofers [ or any 12" woofer ]to meet the Dynaudio D-54 dome at 1 thousand Hertz or so is a big ask.
General rule of thumb for crossovers with any driver is to cross at two octaves above resonance; so 250 *2*2 = 1000; and because most people hear better at and around this frequency the crossover has to be a good one, at least second order or steeper electrically
Hence my earlier suggestion to try and make it a 4-Way or 3.5
4-Way speakers are not easy but the results can be well worth it.
Pix of the rear of your amplifier please and the inside of the box when you remove the woofers Ditto pix of the woofers themselves
You could use two of the low end Dayton woofers
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DC300-8-12-Classic-Woofer-295-320?quantity=1
That would leave you about $200- for crossover parts, those drivers parallel in that box sealed and stuffed would give you plenty of bass but I do think that asking those woofers [ or any 12" woofer ]to meet the Dynaudio D-54 dome at 1 thousand Hertz or so is a big ask.
General rule of thumb for crossovers with any driver is to cross at two octaves above resonance; so 250 *2*2 = 1000; and because most people hear better at and around this frequency the crossover has to be a good one, at least second order or steeper electrically
Hence my earlier suggestion to try and make it a 4-Way or 3.5
4-Way speakers are not easy but the results can be well worth it.
Pix of the rear of your amplifier please and the inside of the box when you remove the woofers Ditto pix of the woofers themselves
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The general rule I was taught is that a speakers costs are about equally dived between box, drivers and cross-over.
Passive XO parts are becoming very expensive whan talking about low crossover frequencies; inductors use a lot of copper and high value capacitors are not cheap
Passive XO parts are becoming very expensive whan talking about low crossover frequencies; inductors use a lot of copper and high value capacitors are not cheap
Agre in general, but xover-parts you can buy used and don´t have to buy more expensive ones..
With the Box allready in hand, i put 85% on the drivers and try fix xover parts for the rest.
And if he uses the Beyma 12 BR70 maby it can be used, by only a LP filter at 1K, and let it roll of.
regards John
SB Acoustic? I Remember I suggested to use One of their woofers, classified as subwoofer. It's a 8" but the big suspension surround makes the cone sort of a 6".
BTW SB makes g'normous subwoofers (woofers) available in 16 ohm, so you have a -bass section-.
So, long stroke, aluminum or non-paper membrane. Little cone which Is easily crossable with the D54.
Infortunately the fat suspension surround Is an obstacle, and at frequencies above 1kHz It Is an issue.
Shall we make a comparison with a 12 paper cone? Or 15"? The original- idea to get a 15" at discount price wasn't bad, the D54 would 'insert' easily for it's high sensitivity ( the Little horn helps for that).
Just make a new baffle and insert a tweeter.
Or...depends, double woofers, again, not paper, and the mid &tw external.
This, would Need an extra speaker to blend between ..eh?; What are we talking about now?? Sonorama of system behaviour predicted before in NORMAL room with NORMAL decay Is expected before making any decision, also personalized F&M to integrate the former.
No, really: I'm not One of "the bigger the better" crowd so I'd proceed my way
BTW SB makes g'normous subwoofers (woofers) available in 16 ohm, so you have a -bass section-.
So, long stroke, aluminum or non-paper membrane. Little cone which Is easily crossable with the D54.
Infortunately the fat suspension surround Is an obstacle, and at frequencies above 1kHz It Is an issue.
Shall we make a comparison with a 12 paper cone? Or 15"? The original- idea to get a 15" at discount price wasn't bad, the D54 would 'insert' easily for it's high sensitivity ( the Little horn helps for that).
Just make a new baffle and insert a tweeter.
Or...depends, double woofers, again, not paper, and the mid &tw external.
This, would Need an extra speaker to blend between ..eh?; What are we talking about now?? Sonorama of system behaviour predicted before in NORMAL room with NORMAL decay Is expected before making any decision, also personalized F&M to integrate the former.
No, really: I'm not One of "the bigger the better" crowd so I'd proceed my way
Having a second look at the picture of the box and taking the OPs reply on board the tweeters might be cheap piezo A-La Tandy/RadioShack at a couple of dollars each.
Welcome to the Rabbit Hole RevDev
Welcome to the Rabbit Hole RevDev
I tried unibox spreadsheet from audio.claub.net/software/kougaard/ubmodel.html
It might be highly useful if you have a collection of drivers sold in Scandanavia in 2008. Sorry, Such driver parameters as sensitivity, mms, cms xmax,are imported directly from a database of drivers available in 2008, and cannot be typed in. They are protected cells. Using linux flavor lubuntu21 opensource spreadsheet I was unable to get the spreadsheet to update the vented chart with the wrong numbers: even though I changed security parameter to medium as suggested. I used the F9 key to update as suggested.
Beta-12a has Qt .46, Vas 120 L, Fs 47 hz. Using figure 5-6 in David B. Weems Designing, Building, and Testing Your Own Speaker System 4th Ed, the suggested box size for a driver of Qt .46 & Vas of 120 L is 180 L. The OP box is 161 L - driver volumes, maybe 159 L=Vbox. Correct tuned box frequency from figure 5.7 is .85 * Fs(47) = 39 hz. With Vb/Vas=1.33 figure 5.8 suggests F3 will be 0.8*Fs(47)=37.6 Hz. F3 is 3 db below average ampltude frequency. As the Eminence Beta-12a has a 80 ohm impedance peak at 47 hz I have my doubts of the speaker acually producing that F3. Table 5.3 suggests for 37 hz tuning a port diameter of 3" and a length of 1". This book doesn't model cone displacement at any particular wattage. Builder beware of exceeding Xmax (displacement max).
For a 1000 hz rolloff of 12 db/octave figure 6-3 as multiplied by butterworth factors on Table 6-1 gives series inductor of 1.80 mH (millihenry) and parallel capacitance (after the inductor) of 14.2 uf (microfarad). For a 75 w/ch amp use >=100 v rated NP electrolytic or polyprophylene cap, and inductor capable of 3.1 amps with low resistance loss.
It might be highly useful if you have a collection of drivers sold in Scandanavia in 2008. Sorry, Such driver parameters as sensitivity, mms, cms xmax,are imported directly from a database of drivers available in 2008, and cannot be typed in. They are protected cells. Using linux flavor lubuntu21 opensource spreadsheet I was unable to get the spreadsheet to update the vented chart with the wrong numbers: even though I changed security parameter to medium as suggested. I used the F9 key to update as suggested.
Beta-12a has Qt .46, Vas 120 L, Fs 47 hz. Using figure 5-6 in David B. Weems Designing, Building, and Testing Your Own Speaker System 4th Ed, the suggested box size for a driver of Qt .46 & Vas of 120 L is 180 L. The OP box is 161 L - driver volumes, maybe 159 L=Vbox. Correct tuned box frequency from figure 5.7 is .85 * Fs(47) = 39 hz. With Vb/Vas=1.33 figure 5.8 suggests F3 will be 0.8*Fs(47)=37.6 Hz. F3 is 3 db below average ampltude frequency. As the Eminence Beta-12a has a 80 ohm impedance peak at 47 hz I have my doubts of the speaker acually producing that F3. Table 5.3 suggests for 37 hz tuning a port diameter of 3" and a length of 1". This book doesn't model cone displacement at any particular wattage. Builder beware of exceeding Xmax (displacement max).
For a 1000 hz rolloff of 12 db/octave figure 6-3 as multiplied by butterworth factors on Table 6-1 gives series inductor of 1.80 mH (millihenry) and parallel capacitance (after the inductor) of 14.2 uf (microfarad). For a 75 w/ch amp use >=100 v rated NP electrolytic or polyprophylene cap, and inductor capable of 3.1 amps with low resistance loss.
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