Hi everyone. I’m new but happy to be here. I have a pair of speakers that I have been working slowly at since college. Started in Electrical engineering and then went into ministry instead. The boxes are very large and custom finished. My grandparents paid for the materials and my uncle built the boxes. My grandparents have since passed and my uncle ‘s Parkinson’s is now advanced to the point he cannot do woodworking any longer. All that to say these cabinets have a lot of sentimental value to me.
the components were…what I could afford at the time. I have acquired in the time since 2 dynaudio d-54-af midrange drivers (someone told me these are excellent midranges) and 2 Peerless XT25TG30-04 tweeters which were also recommended.
I have a grant for a bit of time off from ministry (3 weeks) and funding for a renewal project. I would love to finish these With the new tweeters and midrange.
the cabinets are very large, I had a 12 and a 15 mounted on the front of each. I can’t add dividers if necessary.
what I need is help with woofer and crossover recommendations. I use a Yamaha 150 watt amp. What I want are to make these the feature pieces of a stereo music system. I want as much range as possible, to be able to play them without needing a sub. I want them to sound good and cover a full range so I can enjoy not only the look and the memories but also the music. I see Madisound has faital pro 15” woofers on sale. would those work?
really looking for woofer advice and tips. Thank you all for being willing to help!
the components were…what I could afford at the time. I have acquired in the time since 2 dynaudio d-54-af midrange drivers (someone told me these are excellent midranges) and 2 Peerless XT25TG30-04 tweeters which were also recommended.
I have a grant for a bit of time off from ministry (3 weeks) and funding for a renewal project. I would love to finish these With the new tweeters and midrange.
the cabinets are very large, I had a 12 and a 15 mounted on the front of each. I can’t add dividers if necessary.
what I need is help with woofer and crossover recommendations. I use a Yamaha 150 watt amp. What I want are to make these the feature pieces of a stereo music system. I want as much range as possible, to be able to play them without needing a sub. I want them to sound good and cover a full range so I can enjoy not only the look and the memories but also the music. I see Madisound has faital pro 15” woofers on sale. would those work?
really looking for woofer advice and tips. Thank you all for being willing to help!
First welcome to the forum! 😀
Recommend you add pictures and the box volume and dimensions, and any other details you can provide, this would be about the minimum anyone would need to help you.
Also a link to the woofer you propose to use.
Without this information there is no assistance possible.
Recommend you add pictures and the box volume and dimensions, and any other details you can provide, this would be about the minimum anyone would need to help you.
Also a link to the woofer you propose to use.
Without this information there is no assistance possible.
If you go that large, you should do like the Neumann monitors, i.e. put the tweeter and midrange in a waveguide.
But that should be done with different drivers, I guess...so return to start.
Why a 15? Aahh, because of the things involved.
Make the math ( to realize where to put the Xò points in order to create a 'coherent front' emission given by the superposition of the three speaker playing [the same voice]) or Just consider downsizing and a 10" Is still big
But that should be done with different drivers, I guess...so return to start.
Why a 15? Aahh, because of the things involved.
Make the math ( to realize where to put the Xò points in order to create a 'coherent front' emission given by the superposition of the three speaker playing [the same voice]) or Just consider downsizing and a 10" Is still big
Ok. I’ll get some pictures and dimensions after a bit.. Thank you!
also, typo in my post, I CAN have someone subdivide the cabinets for whatever works. I’m not handy at all nor do I have the tools, but I’m sure I can find someone who will help.
thanks so much for the responses already.
also, typo in my post, I CAN have someone subdivide the cabinets for whatever works. I’m not handy at all nor do I have the tools, but I’m sure I can find someone who will help.
thanks so much for the responses already.
I think Pete is hinting at the fact that we are an international forum and many of us use SI units rather than imperial measurements.
Pictures are still needed.
If the box is 17 inches wide as I suspect it is unlikely a 15 inch woofer is going to fit comfortably or maybe at all. You would certainly compromise the baffle board. 12 inches would be reasonable.
Pictures are still needed.
If the box is 17 inches wide as I suspect it is unlikely a 15 inch woofer is going to fit comfortably or maybe at all. You would certainly compromise the baffle board. 12 inches would be reasonable.
Ok, inches. external. 3/4 inch HDF I believe. Sorry, I didn’t realize about international. Pictures to come. I know the baffle and speakers aren’t pretty. Again, most of this was done when I was younger. I had help cutting and finishing the actual cabinets. I just placed the components, which again were kind of whatever I had. So I know it’s pretty bad. That’s why I hope to do it up right and finish it off.
I can easily fit 12s in, that’s what is in the picture. 2 12 inch woofers. They were 4 ohms. Didn’t know if a single driver 8 ohm would be better, or if I’m better off using multiple woofers or…
that’s why I’m asking for help. I have a Budget of around $500 for the drivers.
I can easily fit 12s in, that’s what is in the picture. 2 12 inch woofers. They were 4 ohms. Didn’t know if a single driver 8 ohm would be better, or if I’m better off using multiple woofers or…
that’s why I’m asking for help. I have a Budget of around $500 for the drivers.
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But you have a dome mid and a tweeter that are usually mounted sealed from the flange and don't Need a back Chamber, thought a structural view would suggest to give attention to the openings, in this case two holes...well, three, considering the woofer.
Internal dividers are not usually necessary.
That looks like 2 12" woofers, a 4" mid, a top end compression driver.
Possibly competent as is, but the determination of what to do next is the measuring. You need an omni microphone, an interface to a PC or laptop, a mike stand, a speaker stand. USB omni mikes are cheapest but are useless for time aligning the two or 3 drivers. A condensor mike requires an interface that provides phantom power. I use a Peavey PV8 mixer I paid $30 for and replaced the volume pot and resoldered one joint killing the left channel. Also a XLR mike cord if condensor, also a 1/4 phone plug to 1/8" stereo phone plug to go in the blue line level input of the PC. No blue input, you need a USB interface from mixer to PC.
Then speaker solfware like REW, which is free. Comes in windows, mac, linux varieties.
I had a friend that bought and built a 4 way speaker using the finest drivers Allied Radio sold in 1968. Sounded awful. I bought a 2 way that actually sounded good.
For woofers the europeans are all over Faital, but I live 40 miles from the Eminence factory in Kentucky. A eminence Kappapro 10 LF for vented or a deltapro-10 for sealed should do about anything anybody wants in a 3 way. Parts-express is a eminence dealer in Ohio. Eminence also has 12' models. I like the pro suffix because of the aluminum frame, that doesn't absorb energy the way a steel frame does. -Lite are the eminence neodynium magnet line, which is an unnecessary expense IMHO for a home unit that doesn't get carried from gig to gig.
That looks like 2 12" woofers, a 4" mid, a top end compression driver.
Possibly competent as is, but the determination of what to do next is the measuring. You need an omni microphone, an interface to a PC or laptop, a mike stand, a speaker stand. USB omni mikes are cheapest but are useless for time aligning the two or 3 drivers. A condensor mike requires an interface that provides phantom power. I use a Peavey PV8 mixer I paid $30 for and replaced the volume pot and resoldered one joint killing the left channel. Also a XLR mike cord if condensor, also a 1/4 phone plug to 1/8" stereo phone plug to go in the blue line level input of the PC. No blue input, you need a USB interface from mixer to PC.
Then speaker solfware like REW, which is free. Comes in windows, mac, linux varieties.
I had a friend that bought and built a 4 way speaker using the finest drivers Allied Radio sold in 1968. Sounded awful. I bought a 2 way that actually sounded good.
For woofers the europeans are all over Faital, but I live 40 miles from the Eminence factory in Kentucky. A eminence Kappapro 10 LF for vented or a deltapro-10 for sealed should do about anything anybody wants in a 3 way. Parts-express is a eminence dealer in Ohio. Eminence also has 12' models. I like the pro suffix because of the aluminum frame, that doesn't absorb energy the way a steel frame does. -Lite are the eminence neodynium magnet line, which is an unnecessary expense IMHO for a home unit that doesn't get carried from gig to gig.
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Eh! The mid has a (short)WG and the 12" seems to have some 'grunt'!
But they are 4 ohm..
Bad!
You would want your amp to play cold and safe..
But they are 4 ohm..
Bad!
You would want your amp to play cold and safe..
Inside the cabinet, right now, it is open. So it is one big box. That is part of what I’m trying to figure out. I can add divisions, add or subtract drivers, or whatever is needed. I will be replacing the compression tweeters with the peerless models I noted because the compression tweeters are so overpowering and harsh. Currently, the 2 12inch 4 ohm woofer are wired in series to act as 1 8 ohm woofer.
midrange - https://site.diy-loudspeakers.com/i...speakers/dynaudio/MIDRANGE/DYNAUDIO_D54AF.pdf
tweeter - https://www.parts-express.com/Peerl...MI4pfEz7zV_QIVcGpvBB1yywjGEAQYASABEgKZi_D_BwE
Mainly I am wondering if anyone has woofer recommendations to pair with these As well as advice on using a single 8 ohm, or 2 4 ohm woofers or really what to do next.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/special-sale/faital-pro-15fh500-15-high-output-woofer-8-ohm/
this is just one woofer I saw and was considering. It is the 15” woofer I referenced earlier.
midrange - https://site.diy-loudspeakers.com/i...speakers/dynaudio/MIDRANGE/DYNAUDIO_D54AF.pdf
tweeter - https://www.parts-express.com/Peerl...MI4pfEz7zV_QIVcGpvBB1yywjGEAQYASABEgKZi_D_BwE
Mainly I am wondering if anyone has woofer recommendations to pair with these As well as advice on using a single 8 ohm, or 2 4 ohm woofers or really what to do next.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/special-sale/faital-pro-15fh500-15-high-output-woofer-8-ohm/
this is just one woofer I saw and was considering. It is the 15” woofer I referenced earlier.
People usually tone down a CD (compression driver) with a series resistor, plus a current limiter (incandescent lamp) to prevent blowout if a mike drops or a RCA cable comes loose & causes a pop, etc.
2 12" is a bit overpowering for home use. I'm doing fine at 1/8 to 50 watts with one 15" and one 1.4" CD in each box. Your box is too small for 15" woofer.
You could probably get a vented response flat to about 54 hz in a box that size. I aim for high sensitivity because I don't want a huge amp heating up the room. Your yamaha is probably really modest wattage in detail. My commercial speakers are 98 db 1w1m which means 1/8 watt is fine for orchestras playing pianissimo. 50 W is for a Mobile Fidelity recording of a steam engine pounding past a crossing.
Port size & length calculation is an art to itself, and people usually stuff boxes or put fluff on the walls to prevent internal reflections - standing waves.
Don't forget to subtract driver volume sum from internal volume when using frequency tuning calculators. Your box is about 5.7 cu ft. Too large for a standard kappapro-10lf box. https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-Kappa-Pro-12A-12-Cast-Frame-Driver-290-424
With no sub I like to go to 54 hz, but these stop at 63.
2 12" is a bit overpowering for home use. I'm doing fine at 1/8 to 50 watts with one 15" and one 1.4" CD in each box. Your box is too small for 15" woofer.
You could probably get a vented response flat to about 54 hz in a box that size. I aim for high sensitivity because I don't want a huge amp heating up the room. Your yamaha is probably really modest wattage in detail. My commercial speakers are 98 db 1w1m which means 1/8 watt is fine for orchestras playing pianissimo. 50 W is for a Mobile Fidelity recording of a steam engine pounding past a crossing.
Port size & length calculation is an art to itself, and people usually stuff boxes or put fluff on the walls to prevent internal reflections - standing waves.
Don't forget to subtract driver volume sum from internal volume when using frequency tuning calculators. Your box is about 5.7 cu ft. Too large for a standard kappapro-10lf box. https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-Kappa-Pro-12A-12-Cast-Frame-Driver-290-424
With no sub I like to go to 54 hz, but these stop at 63.
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Ok, for a serious start from the basement design, let's start from the actual holes: those would be covered by the new aluminum baffle, 1"/2.54 cm thick minimum, entirely secured to the box
so we have a 160L box, with a baffle step freq of 195Hz,
I think the Faital will do the job,
Faital 98dB; Mid, 94dB, tweeter 91dB; is a more efficient tweeter needed?...
I think the Faital will do the job,
Faital 98dB; Mid, 94dB, tweeter 91dB; is a more efficient tweeter needed?...
How precise do I need to make the volume? Is dividing the cabinet somewhere necessary, to reduce the volume?
