Anyone know of a good loctal socket that does not take a hammer to put tubes into, or get out of again for that matter?
i don't know about "loctal" sockets but when octal sockets are tight and firm it's a good thing.
and if you are pulling tubes straight out without using a gentle circular motion your doing it wrong (same goes for inserting them, use a slight circular "tilt" motion until the tube is fully seated, don't just jam them in!)
and if you are pulling tubes straight out without using a gentle circular motion your doing it wrong (same goes for inserting them, use a slight circular "tilt" motion until the tube is fully seated, don't just jam them in!)
Yep, but pulling the glue loose off of bases or hearing things crack is a bit too much. I don't like putting all my weight on a tube to get it into a socket. Loctal is a lot tighter than ovtal, not much the same other than number of pins. Think noval pins but a bit ticker.
Hey Jim, I got a lifetime supply + of Loctals, mostly Cinch and Amphenol. If you are interested send me a PM and we can work out details.
@Ket: I think those are Magnovals you are refering to?
I notice the russian and old US ones have completely different pin styles than the chinese junk. They tend to work with two plates to pin the tube pin, vs the round pinch pin made out of adamantium in the chinese sockets.
DAK; I'm in europe not sure shipping will keep it interesing.
I notice the russian and old US ones have completely different pin styles than the chinese junk. They tend to work with two plates to pin the tube pin, vs the round pinch pin made out of adamantium in the chinese sockets.
DAK; I'm in europe not sure shipping will keep it interesing.
No, magnoval as no key.Here an picture and an example.@Ket: I think those are Magnovals you are refering to?
Mona
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Old stock Philips is really good, the bakelite is quite fragile so dont tighten the screws too hard. they can be found relatively easy at the Rosmalen swapmeet, or at one of the other hamfests.
@Ket: I think those are Magnovals you are refering to?
I notice the russian and old US ones have completely different pin styles than the chinese junk. They tend to work with two plates to pin the tube pin, vs the round pinch pin made out of adamantium in the chinese sockets.
DAK; I'm in europe not sure shipping will keep it interesing.
They are not too heavy. Probably around 10 ounces in weight for 4. You can try and check shipping from usa to your country. Small packet airmail or letter post.
Hey buizen-lover... when are those swap-meets? Any coming up?
@Ketje: Hah, never noticed those before.
@DAK: I'll check. Thanks for the offer.
@Ketje: Hah, never noticed those before.
@DAK: I'll check. Thanks for the offer.
I like the Russian loctal sockets. 😉
If you get the cheap china ones, you need to use a big screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to spread the center pin first.
If you get the cheap china ones, you need to use a big screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to spread the center pin first.
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Typically, there is a small, round bump stamped into the metal band that goes around the bottom of the tube. Tip the tube in the direction of the bump (push from the top of the opposite side) and the tube should just pop out. A small drop of penetrating oil from the bottom of the tube socket on the center pin might also help with this.
+ 1 for the Russian local sockets.
For instance: Ceramic Loctal-8, B8G (Sylvania, 1938) socket 12G1L, 12P17L, 2G27L, 2P29L, 4P1L | eBay
I think you have an etracer Jim, I use one of the above sockets in my etracer, must have put 100 + valves through the same socket, never had a problem, just solder them up and use em. Valves go in easy enough, secure connection when in use, comes out easy.
For instance: Ceramic Loctal-8, B8G (Sylvania, 1938) socket 12G1L, 12P17L, 2G27L, 2P29L, 4P1L | eBay
I think you have an etracer Jim, I use one of the above sockets in my etracer, must have put 100 + valves through the same socket, never had a problem, just solder them up and use em. Valves go in easy enough, secure connection when in use, comes out easy.
yep, it's for my etracer plus some for a 4P1L amp in the future. The current socket in the etracer will not hold any tube as they are so tight, I need to keep pressure on the tube to make contact with the pins and do the trace like that. Same with the magnoval sockets really, can't get any tube in there, they are so tight.
Yeah, with you on the magnoval too. I don't have a lot of traffic through that socket, if that changes then I'd be inclined to try one of the PTFE sockets from the various Asian vendors.
Shame it's got 9 pins and you've already soldered the ceramic stock socket in place, lots of rework there if you do change it.
Shame it's got 9 pins and you've already soldered the ceramic stock socket in place, lots of rework there if you do change it.
Yeah, tell me about it. Have half a mind to order a new plate and gather new sockets for a complete overhaul. I've already order those teflon sockets for the typs they have.
The P socket I have already destroyed getting a KC3 out of there, as it locked into place and would not come out again. Only tested one tube in it. Most of those chinese sockets are complete trash.
The P socket I have already destroyed getting a KC3 out of there, as it locked into place and would not come out again. Only tested one tube in it. Most of those chinese sockets are complete trash.
I suspect these sockets sold as Magnovals today of actually being Novar sockets - same pin circle diameter, but thinner pins.
Best regards!
Best regards!
A few years ago I bought over ebay about 20 pieces of HAT-teflon loctal socket for my C3g, C3m and 18040 (Phillips predecessor post tube of Siemens C3g).
Excellent sockets, I always use them.
Excellent sockets, I always use them.
Hey buizen-lover... when are those swap-meets? Any coming up?
@Ketje: Hah, never noticed those before.
@DAK: I'll check. Thanks for the offer.
These are some Amphenols that i have.
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