Looking at POTS. Are they a standard pin layout/distance? Like I said, I'd really prefer to make soldering and desoldering/resoldering easy. My hands are not great.
The layout is standard, that is looking from the front the left and right pins are the ends of the track and for a volume pot, left would be signal ground, right would be input, the middle is the wiper and would go to the amplifier along with the ground. The distances are not standard.
PSU board and components are stock, as sold by Chipamp.com (CarlosFM snubberized).
Amp Boards are stock Chipamp.com LM3886, except for the following resistor changes to reduce gain:
Rf=20K
R2=20K
R3=1K
Everything else stock. No additional components (I'll add protection stuff when I have this sorted out).
Amp Boards are stock Chipamp.com LM3886, except for the following resistor changes to reduce gain:
Rf=20K
R2=20K
R3=1K
Everything else stock. No additional components (I'll add protection stuff when I have this sorted out).
Can you give some more information?
PSU, board, values at LM3886,.....
If I leave this permanently in the circuit, does it change the gain/resistor values? I dread desoldering/resoldering in new resistors.
This is available, but so much cheaper.
Would it be noisy? I don't want noise.
RK16312A0B85 ALPS | Mouser Canada
This is more expensive, but beefier. Would it be likely to be less noisy
due to higher cost?
81A2A-B28-D15/D15L Bourns | Mouser Canada
Do you recommend using a PCB for the POT?
Would it be noisy? I don't want noise.
RK16312A0B85 ALPS | Mouser Canada
This is more expensive, but beefier. Would it be likely to be less noisy
due to higher cost?
81A2A-B28-D15/D15L Bourns | Mouser Canada
Do you recommend using a PCB for the POT?
They are both good quality pots from respected manufacturers, I doubt you'd hear any noise from either, but you pays your money and you takes your choice 😉
Pots like those with pins are easier PCB mounted, some are available with tabs with a hole for wiring to directly but I've wired directly to PCB mounting pots, it's a bit fiddly though.
Pots like those with pins are easier PCB mounted, some are available with tabs with a hole for wiring to directly but I've wired directly to PCB mounting pots, it's a bit fiddly though.
I ordered a couple of POTS from PartsExpress. It was cheaper than the Bourne at Mouser and faster shipping to my location.
It will take a few days for them to get here. I hope you'll stick around to continue to help me figure out my signal problem. Thanks!
It will take a few days for them to get here. I hope you'll stick around to continue to help me figure out my signal problem. Thanks!
Just a warning for anyone thinking of buying PE stuff and getting it shipped to Canada.
Hmm...there appeared to be a bit of a catch. Parts Express wanted $USD 24.50 to ship two volume controls to Canada. What a ripoff. In the end, I ordered them anyways, and PE only charged $USD 16.50, but let's face it, they probably could've charged $8.00 or less if they'd only put it in an envelope.
Hmm...there appeared to be a bit of a catch. Parts Express wanted $USD 24.50 to ship two volume controls to Canada. What a ripoff. In the end, I ordered them anyways, and PE only charged $USD 16.50, but let's face it, they probably could've charged $8.00 or less if they'd only put it in an envelope.
Wait...I'm not clear...you wrote
"then ground it to amp ground with a piece of wire.."
What is it I'm grounding to amp ground with a piece of wire?
The POT?
Thanks
"then ground it to amp ground with a piece of wire.."
What is it I'm grounding to amp ground with a piece of wire?
The POT?
Thanks
Don´t overthink it, you are not testing that amp the way you will actually use it.
Just connect a speaker at its output, a sound source (PC/MP3 player/Smartphone/CD player) to a volume pot, between 10k and 50k, Audio/Log taper preferred, and from it to the amp, using a coaxial cable.
Also coaxial cable and properly soldered connectors between sound source and potentiometer (a real one, with metallic case soldered to ground)
Also place the amplifier board inside a metallic case or at least on a piece of wood, to which you glue a piece of kitchen type aluminum paper, then ground it to amp ground with a piece of wire, and place an insulator (cardboard or a magazione will do) on aluminum so it does not short PCB bottom.
Play some music and *then* worry or not about Hum and external noise.
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He means the aluminium foil, but I wouldn't bother with the foil for a test if you're not putting it in a screened case temporarily. If the pot has a metal body connected the cable screen to it
scottjoplin:
As I said earlier, I really don't wish to use coax. I tried two different kinds. Noise levels got worse when I used them. Plus, it's extremely difficult to get coax in there. The space is so tight it's ridiculous. I'll never again work on a project this small. It's great if you're 19 and have x-ray vision and the hands of a surgeon.
As I said earlier, I really don't wish to use coax. I tried two different kinds. Noise levels got worse when I used them. Plus, it's extremely difficult to get coax in there. The space is so tight it's ridiculous. I'll never again work on a project this small. It's great if you're 19 and have x-ray vision and the hands of a surgeon.
At first I didn't. Then I posted here and found out I had wired it wrong. I re-wired it correctly. More noise. Then I tried another type of coax. Still the same results. I got quieter results by just using normal signal wire. Go figure.
Sorry, to be accurate, it is labelled on the package as "primary wire". Stranded. Standard stuff-nothing unusual.
Have you been using it twisted to form a pair, two colours so you know which is which, flow and return?
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