Hi Ulogon, thanks for kind words!
I also think its nice project, regardless its my baby 🙂
In the past I used it without mat, stone is polished and flat, no problem with vinyl damage, I also used old flat LP as mat. It all sounded good, but very difficult to compare 1 to 1 . One of big downsides of Project arm is that VTA adjustment is very fiddly. By the time I adjust VTA for new record height, difference was difficult to spot. I ended with self made cork mat , it seemed to sound better then, and its easy to clean , practicality but it also matters 🙂.
These tests were many years ago, so frankly I also don't know now.
On the housing (its veneered outside, and copper layered inside MDF) I'm not worried that much, it is made so it look good, hides motor and electronics, not particular acoustic purpose. Only mechanical thing attached to the housing is motor. The plinth rests on heavy duty damped springs. I tried spikes too at some stage, it did not sound much worse but it was much more sensitive to people dancing on parquet floor 🙂 Probably wall mounted concrete post would solve that, but then I moved my home about 11 times since that TT way build, If I made one concrete shelf for it every time, you imagine, that would be all that Im doing.
If you go for build, at least my (limited) experience is:
Cheers,
Drazen
I also think its nice project, regardless its my baby 🙂
In the past I used it without mat, stone is polished and flat, no problem with vinyl damage, I also used old flat LP as mat. It all sounded good, but very difficult to compare 1 to 1 . One of big downsides of Project arm is that VTA adjustment is very fiddly. By the time I adjust VTA for new record height, difference was difficult to spot. I ended with self made cork mat , it seemed to sound better then, and its easy to clean , practicality but it also matters 🙂.
These tests were many years ago, so frankly I also don't know now.
On the housing (its veneered outside, and copper layered inside MDF) I'm not worried that much, it is made so it look good, hides motor and electronics, not particular acoustic purpose. Only mechanical thing attached to the housing is motor. The plinth rests on heavy duty damped springs. I tried spikes too at some stage, it did not sound much worse but it was much more sensitive to people dancing on parquet floor 🙂 Probably wall mounted concrete post would solve that, but then I moved my home about 11 times since that TT way build, If I made one concrete shelf for it every time, you imagine, that would be all that Im doing.
If you go for build, at least my (limited) experience is:
- Ridiculously oversized and tight tolerances as possible bearing does good. Little bit oversized motor will drive it with good bearing oil. Any wobble of the platter in the bearing makes difference. This TT makes tighter and more precise sound than any commercial TT I compared with, all those have little bit loose tolerance bearings (in my mechanical engineering view). But than it is subjective too, as i could not compare them with the same cartridge.......
- 100% rigid connection between bearing and arm fitting.
- Not every stone is same, what I use rings less than most slates or marbles, less density and homogeneous. I would like once to make plinth of cast Iron, aged for 1-2 years and than machined, like for high speed CNC machines, but that's for another life.
- Well glued one thin layer of softer material reduces vibration, I used copper. There is theory about it that I did not study in details, however in practical test this limestone does not ring much when glass ball is thrown at it, with one copper layer even less.
- I soldered pickup lids directly to input of MC preamp inside TT, with 0.34mV (in LF only 0.034mV) signal I think every reduction in cable length and unnecessary connections matters. My SSm2017 based preamp is dead quiet, without record playing the noise is below what I can hear unless I put my ear directly on speaker.
- See post #3
Cheers,
Drazen
These inverters can be found used for low prices. I do not see one in your original pictures.
Hi, where???? I could not find it cheap.
Unit looked exactly like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/2854098958...H6V7SA&hash=item4273c1659b:g:XyMAAOSwzPpkxF29
I did not take picture before trying to repair, now its bunch of broken parts as unit is not made to be serviceable :-(
Thanks so much for your effort!
They are still over 100€ delivered, but Ill look at this, at least I have my TT in function again without problems, upgrades can wait then ,
Thanks again
They are still over 100€ delivered, but Ill look at this, at least I have my TT in function again without problems, upgrades can wait then ,
Thanks again
Hi Rich, absolutely fantastic project! Thank you very much for sharing this nice work!
Just 2 questions:
1. Where did you post code for RPi?
2. Was there a group buy for PCB's , any left?
And one not important question, I can fix this myself; did you make also a board for 3 phase amp?
Cheers,
Drazen
Just 2 questions:
1. Where did you post code for RPi?
2. Was there a group buy for PCB's , any left?
And one not important question, I can fix this myself; did you make also a board for 3 phase amp?
Cheers,
Drazen
As an alternative there's this https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...e-generator-for-turntable-motor-drive.298018/
I use this to drive my v. large 3 phase Papst motor
I am the ROW distributor and ship the latest CPU (v1.06) and the bare pcb all over the world except the USA.
I use this to drive my v. large 3 phase Papst motor
I am the ROW distributor and ship the latest CPU (v1.06) and the bare pcb all over the world except the USA.
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Hi Drazen, thanks.
1. I send the compiled firmware on request, this is uploaded by drag-and-drop so no programming environment is required
2. There was no group buy, I've provided the PCB Gerber file in the first post of the thread (or you can ask if anyone else has spares from an order)
3. I only provided a 2-channel amp to go with this
Dears,
After sleeping over, I will go for Rich's solution, this is beautiful and so purposeful project!
Next frequency inverter looks very tempting as it is fastest way to result (thank You As-audio) and it was great with my old 165 V Papst, but now Im gonna use 12V motor so additional trafos are needed (Micromaster can output from 0 to Vin, but reducing from 230V to 12V would be horribly chopped I believe).
Plus, if someone else wants to use frequencies inverter; Micromaster Junior has constantly engaged fan that needs to be tweaked off (its 1HP unit, no cooling needed for 20W TT motor). If that is done it is very good for 100V + 3 phase motors.
After sleeping over, I will go for Rich's solution, this is beautiful and so purposeful project!
Next frequency inverter looks very tempting as it is fastest way to result (thank You As-audio) and it was great with my old 165 V Papst, but now Im gonna use 12V motor so additional trafos are needed (Micromaster can output from 0 to Vin, but reducing from 230V to 12V would be horribly chopped I believe).
Plus, if someone else wants to use frequencies inverter; Micromaster Junior has constantly engaged fan that needs to be tweaked off (its 1HP unit, no cooling needed for 20W TT motor). If that is done it is very good for 100V + 3 phase motors.
Hello Rich, @richb
If I can further bother you to check my to do list:
I put in the basket these RPI and OLED, are they compatible:
https://hr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Raspberry-Pi/SC0917?qs=T%2BzbugeAwjjvYEYcRJk%2Bxw==
and this screen:
https://hr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Olimex-Ltd/MOD-OLED-128x64?qs=Rp5uXu7WBW9sJeOZSKRzUw== seems it has right chip, SSD1306:
https://www.olimex.com/Products/Modules/LCD/MOD-OLED-128x64/resources/ER-OLED0.96-2_Manual.pdf
I downloaded your PCB ZIP: "Gerber_PCB_supaspin_v3.0_pico"
Still need your code link .
I'm making small amp PCB with 3 x TDA2030 for 3 phase motor, will publish when ready.
Thanks heaps,
Drazen
If I can further bother you to check my to do list:
I put in the basket these RPI and OLED, are they compatible:
https://hr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Raspberry-Pi/SC0917?qs=T%2BzbugeAwjjvYEYcRJk%2Bxw==
and this screen:
https://hr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Olimex-Ltd/MOD-OLED-128x64?qs=Rp5uXu7WBW9sJeOZSKRzUw== seems it has right chip, SSD1306:
https://www.olimex.com/Products/Modules/LCD/MOD-OLED-128x64/resources/ER-OLED0.96-2_Manual.pdf
I downloaded your PCB ZIP: "Gerber_PCB_supaspin_v3.0_pico"
Still need your code link .
I'm making small amp PCB with 3 x TDA2030 for 3 phase motor, will publish when ready.
Thanks heaps,
Drazen
Yep that's the one
I can't see if that's a bare screen (no SPI/I2C driver) or a complete module - if it has SSD1306 and looks like either of these it's OK:
That's correct
Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send it to you
Sounds good
- Rich
Hi Rich,
Mouser seems to have only that display that fits specs, all others are larger. However that display has so poor Chinese datasheet that its impossible to say if driver SSD1306 is included or not.
This one I found in local store (Conrad), looks exactly like what you showed, but its different driver specified.
However , don't look further. You helped more than enough, Ill find my right display in another shop.
Mouser seems to have only that display that fits specs, all others are larger. However that display has so poor Chinese datasheet that its impossible to say if driver SSD1306 is included or not.
This one I found in local store (Conrad), looks exactly like what you showed, but its different driver specified.
However , don't look further. You helped more than enough, Ill find my right display in another shop.
PCB for 3 phase motor amplifier is ready, 3 x TDA2030, did not bother to polish it, or to remove DC, motor will not care. But this as is is not for audio 🙂
Waiting for other parts.....
Waiting for other parts.....
Hi, just FYI, while waiting for motor drive parts, I opened a thread on MC preamp, I think subject is worth separate thread:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ono-preamplifier-thoughts.414816/post-7728956
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ono-preamplifier-thoughts.414816/post-7728956