Ray Collins said:Have these been sanded any?
Ray
Not yet, its just a rough finish. In a couple of weeks time I'll do all the final finishing work to get it looking much better.
sq225917 said:double bank holiday weekend Shin...
we're all expecting huge progress from you...
Going to have to dissappoint cause I'll be away getting absolutely hammered in Liverpool. 🙂
Ray Collins said:Pretty smooth surface for having only sanded the primer.
Ray
For once it looks better in the photo's than in person, it looks like Seals face up close.
Shin,
I am not familiar with the brands of materials in the earlier photo; I assume that the primer is a sandable, automotive type? Also that you employ wet sanding?
Ray
I am not familiar with the brands of materials in the earlier photo; I assume that the primer is a sandable, automotive type? Also that you employ wet sanding?
Ray
Ray Collins said:Shin,
I am not familiar with the brands of materials in the earlier photo; I assume that the primer is a sandable, automotive type? Also that you employ wet sanding?
Ray
Right on all points.
The great and wise EU are banning all the paints I use for health, safety and environmental reasons. Come this time next year I'll have to switch to hydrofan stuff which is water based, costs a fortune but does perform well. Its a similar situation as to what we've just witnessed with the lead and ROHS. All completely unfounded and irrelevant. Some dick heads in Brussels need to justify their day jobs so come up with this **** to get paid at the end of each month.
Things is you tend to get used to a system of paints and this system allows you to get good results. Having to swap is just a PITA.
Shin,
You are preaching to the choir!!! I too am unable to use my old familiar Binks because I don't have a booth with exhaust fans and explosion proof lights, etc. When I shot my race cars and airplanes I just wet down the hanger floor to settle the dust, wiped 'em down with MEK and sprayed!! Oh well...
Ray
You are preaching to the choir!!! I too am unable to use my old familiar Binks because I don't have a booth with exhaust fans and explosion proof lights, etc. When I shot my race cars and airplanes I just wet down the hanger floor to settle the dust, wiped 'em down with MEK and sprayed!! Oh well...
Ray
ShinOBIWAN said:
Going to have to dissappoint cause I'll be away getting absolutely hammered in Liverpool. 🙂
Off to the mighty RAZ/Blue Angel?
Liverpool is a mecca for cheap booze and great nights out, theres so much less attitude than London, i try to get up there a couple of times a year.
Nick.
Don't see any wood hardener in that stockpile Ant, I assume you still use it else the MDF must soak up gallons of automotive primer.
richie00boy said:Don't see any wood hardener in that stockpile Ant, I assume you still use it else the MDF must soak up gallons of automotive primer.
Didn't bother with it Rich, it reacts with the cellulose primer I'm using this time around. On the Perceives I used 2pack stuff so it was OK.
If you keep the primer in a high build viscosity(hardly any thinner) then it lays down thick and you don't have to do that many coats. You do still use a lot of primer though. I'm guessing I'll need 15-20ltrs to do all the priming work on these.
Had a good night out in Liverpool. Best clubbing scene in the North IMO.
Not DIY related but treat myself to a new camera over the weekend too, the Fuji S3000 was just a bit bulky for comfort when out and about. After looking around for the afternoon I went with the Sony DSC-T50 which is one of the compact style ones:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I was nicely surprised by the quality of the shots. They're about as good as the big Fuji managed but in a more compact package. The larger LCD screen makes taking shots really easy too.
Here's a couple of shots I took:


Ray Collins said:How about a few from the Liverpool Club sceen?!
Ray
Sorry Ray, no camera with me. Clubs are a dangerous place for camera's, but boy the sights probably justify the risk!
I've got to mod the faceplate of the RAAL so whilst I had it in bits I took a couple of shots:
The RAAL would be a good choice for a line array. Once the faceplate is removed you can mount flush with the next driver and have a few mm between each ribbon element:
Close up of ribbon in gap:
Rear chamber:
Shortly after I took these shots I ended up destroying the element
The magnetic gap is pretty formidable and sucked one of the hex bolts, that fastens the faceplate, into the gap and through the ribbon... ROLF. Pretty delicate things so watch yourself if you decide to be clever as I did. Replacement element and a couple of spares to be ordered from Alex.
The RAAL would be a good choice for a line array. Once the faceplate is removed you can mount flush with the next driver and have a few mm between each ribbon element:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Close up of ribbon in gap:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Rear chamber:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Shortly after I took these shots I ended up destroying the element

Also sprayed up a baffle and the plinth. Particularly pleased with the finish on the plinth, its a nice smooth satin black, very understated and should be fairly tough wearing thanks to the synthetic mix.



Yeah, I do like that satin black. Wonder if it's tough enough to paint my houseparty speakers with?
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