!!!Lets Finally Assemble A 250w hqi setup!!!!!

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#21
I had my own dumbass...But he fell down an elevator shaft. You see he thought the elevator door was just stuck and pried it open and aaaahhhhhhhhhhhh.

Unfortunately he was the last dumbass in a long generation of dumbasses that have served my family for generations...
So now we are stuck without a dumbass and are forced to borrow other people's dumbasses.

But that's another story.....
 
#23
wow, all i can really say is wow.... im gone so shortly and such hillarity insues... anyway enough making fun of my grammatical errors.

Here ya go jimmy or val or whatever you damn name is, this is what your company had to say

"It is not hqi compatible.

sorry .
P.S. This better not be that damn negative design kid who keeps emailing us, we will soon be forced to get a restraining order if you dont stop harrasing us. perv.

Bruce"



so yeah i guess it wont work.
 
#24
yea I emailed that guy from that site and he said that It wouldnt work for HQI and he wanted to know what I was needing it for and I said for my "aquarium" he hasent responded back, I think hes on to our rouse, still kinda shisty that he didnt respond yet. who knows I suspect 100+ will be the norm for this ballest.Freakin Home depot they should stock the ballest for our uses, geese the lack of consideration from them.LOL
 
#25
ok the people from pure land supply (http://www.purelandsupply.com/category.html?UCIDs=1108137) emailed me and sent me the specs. http://www.ushio.com/files/UHI-DE SpecSheet.pdf

They have 150 watters with 12000 lumens and 4200 color temp or 11000 lumens and 5200 color temp. Which would be better and why?

ALSO

If i remember the specs of the expensive lamps that were made for my commercial projector, they were 10000 lumens and had a 3200 color temp, i will double check. So if i can make an effective reflector (or rip the one from my ohp) It should be brighter or atleast the same brightness of the stock lamp. WOOO HOOO! But then again i could just use the 250 watters incase i suck at making a reflector. Either way let me know what you think of those bulbs and my theory.


Im personally leaning towards the 150w mainly because of size, although its not a whole lot smaller, it might help depending on the lamp opening of the projector i ordered. I might change my mind if it gets here and i have more room to work with.
 
#26
OK -- my almost-set-up lighting system is an ICECAP 250W MH electronic ballast with one of the $33.95 DE's (4200K temp, 20k lumens, 10k life) from BulbSource (they're Eiko's BTW). I got the ballast for $120 from OceanEncounter and a DE socket pair from HelloLights ($12.50).

If you get the BulbSource cheapies, make sure you get the 70W/150W DE sockets from HelloLights -- they're actually rated for 1000W (as seen in their photo) and you need the ball-end spring clips as opposed to the 250W DE sockets with a wedge design.

Still waiting for the sockets to come in and it's a nice week-long UPS ride from Cali, but I did at least test my wiring skills with the ballast and a temporary bulb rig. The electronic ballast produces a light buzzing noise when it's warming and starting up the bulb, but after that, it's completely silent.

http://oceanencounter.com/Merchant2..._Code=OE&Product_Code=I2HB&Category_Code=ICMH

http://www.hellolights.com/15hqilamhol1.htm
 
#28
This diagram shows the difference between FC2 and RX7s type double ended metal halide bulb ends.
http://www.blv.co.uk/survey of burning positions.htm

Found an even lower price for the same spec bulb (MH-DE250/TD/4K/RSC) -- Vista has the bulbs for $29.80 but their shipping is $8.50. BulbSource is $33.95 + $3.90 shipping, but if you buy 3 or more bulbs, shipping is free! (great for group buys).
http://www.vistadiscountlighting.com/product_pages/general_lamps/metal_halide.html

Interesting image projector that possibly could be adapted with the addition of a small LCD?
http://www.articulight.com/gp/02.html

And I found bulbs and fixtures from these UK dealers, but unfortunately, couldn't find sockets -- maybe if you contact them, they can get them or tell you where to find them?
http://www.lighting-direct.co.uk/mhalide.htm
http://www.dealec.co.uk/acatalog/Deal_Electrical__Hitlite_Double_Ended_Metal_Halide_Lamps_344.html
http://www.powersaver.co.uk/lighting/metalhalidedisp.shtml
 
#29
Poohbear -- did you ever put something together? And if so (or not), what? (or what did you try?)

My plan is to do something along the lines of DIY Labs' compact Mark II design, but the project is currently at a complete standstill for lack of a reflector. I did finally get a useable pair of HQI sockets, but there isn't much use protyping without a completely functional (optimal) light source.

I placed an order on Amazon for a $10 set of small stainless steel bowls (looked highly polished -- by Progressive), so I'm hoping one of those will be at least somewhat useful.

With a 500W halogen worklight I've tried my projection panel both intact and removed from its chassis. I thought I could use it more easily dismounted, but the solder points for the flex cable proved to be tempermental when moved too much, so for fear of causing irrepairable damage, I put it back in its protective little plastic shell. And unless I find a good (and protective) way of mounting the panel and controller board inside the projector, it'll probably stay there.
 
#30
I think i have a setup in mind, but the people at yellertwo and i havent quite been able to come to agreement on a bulb. I might have to order the bulb seperate.

Here is the bulb i want http://www.goodmart.com/products/36759.htm
because its small, bright, and not to expensive. I have seen other brands that are brighter and im still looking for retailers of them. But what i plan to do is use that bulb with a 150w icecap ballast, a g12 socket, and the commercial lamp reflector.
 
#32
poohbear said:
I think i have a setup in mind, but the people at yellertwo and i havent quite been able to come to agreement on a bulb. I might have to order the bulb seperate.

Here is the bulb i want http://www.goodmart.com/products/36759.htm
because its small, bright, and not to expensive. I have seen other brands that are brighter and im still looking for retailers of them. But what i plan to do is use that bulb with a 150w icecap ballast, a g12 socket, and the commercial lamp reflector.
Click to expand...

Poohbear: Very cool! Be interesting to see if 150W can pull it off as a projection source. Have you figured out what to use as a reflector, or do you have a cannibalized fixture in mind? The form factor could allow you to use a can from a ceiling fixture and optimally an ellipsoidal (better than parabolic).

Negative Design: I think some HQI's require an electronic ballast of a certain spec or better, although Sylvania's specs only mention that the ballast has to be ANSI. Besides, magnetics are bulkier, less energy efficient, and noisier.

Electronic ballasts cost more, but you get:
* Compact self-contained design
* Don't require separate capacitor or ignitor
* Extended lamp life - up to 25%
* Consistent lamp color
* Uniform lumen output
* Reduced lamp flicker
* Cool, silent operation
* Long ballast life (most have a 3 year warranty)
 
#34
Im using an electronic ballast because its smaller, quieter, more engergy effecient.. etc.. And for the reflector i plan to use a canabalized stock reflector with the built in bulb. Hopefully i dont blow up the bulb and get shrapnel in my face... I have pics of the lamp i plan to canabalize posted someplace on the forum.
 
#35
Actually, that's the halogen worklight I own, or something like it... only $9 at Home Depot. But the reflector is designed for the much smaller halogen bulb and it's really pretty crappy -- not much more than a sheet of aluminum with a stamped pebble finish and not even polished.

Make sure you enclose your prototype in a cardboard box or something if you're worried about the lamp exploding... that's what I did the first time I fired it up. Tempered glass between light source and LCD will hopefully protect your panel as well.
 
#37
Well I did it.

I forked out the cash for a 250w Icecap ballast, HQI Bulb and sockets. If I don't get to anxious I will take some pictures of before and after the retro fit.

My Current Setup:
OHP with 1000w Halogen BRH bulb
MegaShow LCD Panel, 100:1 CR, 30ms RT, 640x480, 16mil colors
Cheap VGA Box
Xbox, and PS2 connected with Svideo through VGA Box.
 
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