BeanZ, very nice job!
I have a questions though:
The wires from the smoothing caps seems very thin for a 800 W (is it 2 x 800W?) amp
It's a little bit odd to have horizontal heatsinks, any fan? Maybe it's sufficient for home use?
Can you take a few closeups? Very nice looking, indeed!
I have a questions though:
The wires from the smoothing caps seems very thin for a 800 W (is it 2 x 800W?) amp
It's a little bit odd to have horizontal heatsinks, any fan? Maybe it's sufficient for home use?
Can you take a few closeups? Very nice looking, indeed!
The wire is thin for 800W. However, during normal usage, you will only be sourcing a few amps. There are fans inside which continuously run. During normal listening conditions there is only a few degrees C temperature rise. When testing a full power with continuous sine waves, the amplifier was extremely hot. I don't recommend performing this kind of testing for extended periods of time unless your cooling system is rated for continuous sustained powers. I had a friend take these pictures while he had a digital camera. I will see if I can get some new ones on the site. Look for new ones near the end of April when I release the aforementioned Integrated Class-T Amplifier with ZVS power supply and off-line Power Factor Preregulator. I have mentioned it many times before and won't go into it again here. I will present the step-by-step process of designing and building switching power supplies (including magnetics) and Class-T amplifiers. Hope everyone is still intersted......stay tuned!!
BeanZ
BeanZ
The wire gauge from the Caps are 16AWG. The smaller wires that you see near the right side of the transformer are for the Stereo Blue LED VU meter. 16AWG shoud suffice for typical applications but there is certainly no harm in using larger gauge wire. And to peranders: Months ago I indicated that I would get you the board file, and it turns out that all I could dig up was an older file with just the two amplifier channels on a single board about 8" x 6". I can send them to you near the end of April. Why the end of April for all these things? I just recently moved to another city and I no longer have a computer but will again at the end of April...
BeanZ
BeanZ
Does anyone know of a good company in the USA that can make a PCB for the Leach Superamp for a good price?
BeanZ said:
Hello BeanZ.
I have checked your PCB layout and it is a Protel file.
There are no aditional circuits, only the SuperLeach board.
Anyway, thanks for the layout.
mario
Leach Amp compared to Super Leach Amp
You said you build the Leach Amp and now the Super Amp. Can you comment on the sonic differences between the two? I have an older Leach Amp, Version 3, and have, for years now, planned to upgrade it to the 4.5 version. I was wondering if, for normal home use, the Super Amp is really any better. The designs are so very similiar.
You said you build the Leach Amp and now the Super Amp. Can you comment on the sonic differences between the two? I have an older Leach Amp, Version 3, and have, for years now, planned to upgrade it to the 4.5 version. I was wondering if, for normal home use, the Super Amp is really any better. The designs are so very similiar.
Super Leach Amp
Hi, I've been reading the posts and there is been taking about a pcb, schematic and super leach amplifier.
Can some one help me out? Can I see a schematic of the amp?
An URL is OK; the lore the better.
Thanks
Hi, I've been reading the posts and there is been taking about a pcb, schematic and super leach amplifier.
Can some one help me out? Can I see a schematic of the amp?
An URL is OK; the lore the better.
Thanks
lawbadman said:
www.barebonespcb.com
www.pcbexpress.com
are two that are most often mentioned around here.
BobEllis said:
Stupid question here.... Does one need to send them schematics and layouts or do they have "reference" models... in this case the Superleach on hand?
I'm curious, I know Q28 Q29 Q30 and Q31 are located on the heatsink, but in the pictures there are four other transistors per channel also on the heatsink, which transistors are those?
Hi Folks!
Dear BeanZ!
The pictures of the Super-Leach-Amp show a very nice built-up. I also planned to built up this big amp, but finally I decided to built up the "normal" Leach-amp vers. 4.5. This amp reproduces music very clear and clean with a deep dry bass. Therfore I can imagine how your amp "sounds".
Did you have any problems with the construction?
Wopo
Dear BeanZ!
The pictures of the Super-Leach-Amp show a very nice built-up. I also planned to built up this big amp, but finally I decided to built up the "normal" Leach-amp vers. 4.5. This amp reproduces music very clear and clean with a deep dry bass. Therfore I can imagine how your amp "sounds".
Did you have any problems with the construction?
WopoHi BeanZ!
I became fan of the Leach Amp, I have the material list here, go to start its construction (v 4.5), later I will be able to post the photos🙂
Already now... a little offtopic, I love this forum!
Cheers,
Diogo Almeida
I became fan of the Leach Amp, I have the material list here, go to start its construction (v 4.5), later I will be able to post the photos🙂
Already now... a little offtopic, I love this forum!
Cheers,
Diogo Almeida
Need help on superleach
Hello, congrats for the amp
Ia m looking for superleach amp PCBs. Do you have any spare or can you direct me to a person who has tested PCbs. Do let let me know the costs in either case.
rgds
Himanshu
Hello, congrats for the amp
Ia m looking for superleach amp PCBs. Do you have any spare or can you direct me to a person who has tested PCbs. Do let let me know the costs in either case.
rgds
Himanshu
Hi yeshu26
You are still looking for the pcb ? I thought you have got them already. I just get someone to make me an adaptor for fixing the the 8 TO-3 (on a seperate board) to the heatsink. I don't know how long it's going to take him but I can go on with the pcbs. I had modified Mr Leach's original pcbs to a main board and made an output board to accomodte the 8 TO-3 along with some components. There is still some wires connecting the main and the output but they can be done using much more thinner wires. Attach is the output board.
You are still looking for the pcb ? I thought you have got them already. I just get someone to make me an adaptor for fixing the the 8 TO-3 (on a seperate board) to the heatsink. I don't know how long it's going to take him but I can go on with the pcbs. I had modified Mr Leach's original pcbs to a main board and made an output board to accomodte the 8 TO-3 along with some components. There is still some wires connecting the main and the output but they can be done using much more thinner wires. Attach is the output board.
Hi ,my amp integrated on a computer
It's my amp
It's my amp
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🙂
Hi PROSTAKA
That's another nice piece of work especially for computerist. Any interference from other parts of the computer at all? You have another source of interference, the TV capture card. Really like to know if your leach is doing as good as it does when "out of the box". I like those connectors and the wiring. That's also what I am using.
Hope this dosen't offend you : everything looking so elegant and tidy except the 2 white 'power lines'. I bet that they were not even plated core lines. Why don't you use the computer power cords? It might be a bit wasteful to cut out the plugs at both end of the cord, using just the middle wire portion. But I think that perfects the whole picture. I had those kind of wires also and the only place I use them is going from the wall socket to a power bank or some domestic appliance which need a really long wire. They can get worn out even at screwed terminal inside the power plug and it always cause a mal-connection.
That's another nice piece of work especially for computerist. Any interference from other parts of the computer at all? You have another source of interference, the TV capture card. Really like to know if your leach is doing as good as it does when "out of the box". I like those connectors and the wiring. That's also what I am using.
Hope this dosen't offend you : everything looking so elegant and tidy except the 2 white 'power lines'. I bet that they were not even plated core lines. Why don't you use the computer power cords? It might be a bit wasteful to cut out the plugs at both end of the cord, using just the middle wire portion. But I think that perfects the whole picture. I had those kind of wires also and the only place I use them is going from the wall socket to a power bank or some domestic appliance which need a really long wire. They can get worn out even at screwed terminal inside the power plug and it always cause a mal-connection.
Need PCBs Big Panda
Hi Bigpanda,
No I made Leach amp, now I want to make Superleach amp. I am looking for PCBs. I have mj 15003 , so your pcb modified for TO 3 is even better
do respond soon
rgds
Himanshu
Hi Bigpanda,
No I made Leach amp, now I want to make Superleach amp. I am looking for PCBs. I have mj 15003 , so your pcb modified for TO 3 is even better
do respond soon
rgds
Himanshu
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