The toroids are from Toroidy 500VA 50 vac
The red cubes are from codyt ‘s LSB build ( I asked him what they were also!) they are large Wima film capacitors ( rather than motor run ) type
Thank you for the kind words
Mark
The red cubes are from codyt ‘s LSB build ( I asked him what they were also!) they are large Wima film capacitors ( rather than motor run ) type
Thank you for the kind words
Mark
My LSB monoblocks
Looking great! How do they sound in your music playback system? What are your bias settings, rail voltages and temperatures?
Yea, the thing with really full size speakers is the absolutely superiour full range dynamic scale they can reproduce.
The standmount speaker or small woofer area speaker can surely sound very old lady cute, clean and clear. But it simply can never ever reproduce the full dynamics and the full size sound imaging: the massive, effortless, natural full range sound - Like the really BIG speaker can.
Its simply pure and solidly proven physics. 🙂
Its a doll house sized bass guitar and singer in the sound image compaired with a full sized bass guitar and singer in the sound image.
So, dont hold back. Build the speakers big. Really big. Really, really full bass range! 🎺🙂🎸
The standmount speaker or small woofer area speaker can surely sound very old lady cute, clean and clear. But it simply can never ever reproduce the full dynamics and the full size sound imaging: the massive, effortless, natural full range sound - Like the really BIG speaker can.
Its simply pure and solidly proven physics. 🙂
Its a doll house sized bass guitar and singer in the sound image compaired with a full sized bass guitar and singer in the sound image.
So, dont hold back. Build the speakers big. Really big. Really, really full bass range! 🎺🙂🎸
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Now one 2SK182ES Lazy Singing Bush channel is up and playing chill out music on the mini test KEF speaker at the build bench! 🙂
No THD measurements yet. But here is the thing. With R1 at 8k2 the bias topped out at 2,4A. So i changed the R1 to 3k3, and that fixed the bias range. Now i have adjustment range P1 10k from 2,1A to 3,2A.
But how do i modify the range for the output node voltage? With rail voltage at -84,5V i now have C* node voltage adjustment range P1 5k from -27,1V to -32,5V.
Around -42V would, if i understand this correctly, with the -84,5V rail voltage, be a good starting point?
No THD measurements yet. But here is the thing. With R1 at 8k2 the bias topped out at 2,4A. So i changed the R1 to 3k3, and that fixed the bias range. Now i have adjustment range P1 10k from 2,1A to 3,2A.
But how do i modify the range for the output node voltage? With rail voltage at -84,5V i now have C* node voltage adjustment range P1 5k from -27,1V to -32,5V.
Around -42V would, if i understand this correctly, with the -84,5V rail voltage, be a good starting point?
increase ZD string voltage for as much volts you're missing
say 15V/500mW zener in place of LED1, oriented as other zeners
say 15V/500mW zener in place of LED1, oriented as other zeners
say 15V/500mW zener
Exellent! Ill try that. 🙂
Time to cobble together a Digikey parts order. Hmmm. What do i also need for the F4, F5, F5m and F6 builds. And the DIY FE 2023. And the EAR 843, and the… 🙂🙂🙂
The Heat is ON! Thanks Zen. The new 15V zener gives me range from -39,5V to -44,9V output node voltage. 🙂
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