It's a beyrllium ribbon tweeter, a boron/titanium 3" fullrange on a leather covered corian baffle, and three 12" graphite composite woffers. My goal was to try to get away with no equilization. It seems to be flat to about 40 hz. I will be playing around with crossover points till I'm old and grey it seems, but the sound right now is very satisfying. I need to do a finish on the W baffles, but I havn't decided how just yet.
Any sugestions?
Any sugestions?
Attachments
Very nice and welcome to the half-completed Open Baffle Club. Right now I have finished my mid-high panel in veneer with semi-dark stain-don't remember what colour. For low-end I have a single Illusion Audio LM-804, seems to do the trick with my budget. It resides in an H-baffle and is bare MDF. I will be finishing it in veneer and may try using rubbing oils or marine resin, still unsure. Anyway, looks to sound nice and hope everything works out!
Impressive.
Are you using passive crossovers by any chance? I'd be very interested in hearing about your strategy for matching levels and combatting dipole bass rolloff, if you're willing to share any information about that.
Are you using passive crossovers by any chance? I'd be very interested in hearing about your strategy for matching levels and combatting dipole bass rolloff, if you're willing to share any information about that.
HeatMiser said:Impressive.
Are you using passive crossovers by any chance? I'd be very interested in hearing about your strategy for matching levels and combatting dipole bass rolloff, if you're willing to share any information about that.
I am breaking all the rules. I use passive crossovers and one 8 watt SET 300b mono block amp per side. The tweeter is crossed at 12k 1st order. The mid is run full range with a home made 8 ohm silver wire non inductive resistor in series. The woofers are crossed at 150 hz Linkwitz-Riley 2 nd order.
Peter Daniel said:Everything that comes from Tom is impressive.
You are to kind. I aspire to your standards.
Have you started your Halo's yet?
Tom,
With the 2nd order xover on the woofer, was it necessary to change its wiring polarity to integrate it with the full-range driver?
With the 2nd order xover on the woofer, was it necessary to change its wiring polarity to integrate it with the full-range driver?
JohninCRjohninCR said:Tom,
With the 2nd order xover on the woofer, was it necessary to change its wiring polarity to integrate it with the full-range driver?
Yes the woffers are out of phase with the full range.
Timn8ter said:Please tell the true story of the squiggly boards behind the speakers.![]()
I could tell you but then I'd have to...well you know.
They are copys of these.
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/superioraudio/equipment/0803/shaktihallograph.htm
Tom,
How much of a difference do those Shakti Hallograph clones make? Was building them worth the effort?
How much of a difference do those Shakti Hallograph clones make? Was building them worth the effort?
johninCR said:Tom,
How much of a difference do those Shakti Hallograph clones make? Was building them worth the effort?
John
They were well worth making. I plan on building three others for the center and a pair of rears. They really focus the sound.
Tom,
Don't you think they are just an adjustable sound diffuser?
It gives me some ideas for room treatment though.
Don't you think they are just an adjustable sound diffuser?
It gives me some ideas for room treatment though.
johninCR said:Tom,
Don't you think they are just an adjustable sound diffuser?
It gives me some ideas for room treatment though.
Yes I think that's what they are.
What are your ideas?
I've been looking around at room treatments. I've seen boards filled with angular and wavy cut pieces (too much work, not easily adjustable, but almost artsy looking), sound shutters (3 flat boards on louvers, adjustable but ugly), the things you copied (artsy looking, adjustable, but takes up floor space) among other things. The audio objective of all these things is to diffuse reflected sound waves.
My main idea would be to come up with a variety of things that are artistic, functional, and if possible, adjustable including both things that absorb and diffuse. These would include things ranging from helmholtz resonators for bass traps, to paintings that act as absorbers and/or diffusors. The goal would be to end up with a room that is well treated acoustically and remain visually appealing and tastefully done.
5 of your things in a room would be too much for me from a visual standpoint. 2 more might be ok, but I'd hang the others from the ceiling and make them able to pivot on the top piece strung to the ceiling or wall mount them and pivot on the "arm".
I remember reading somewhere that alternating absorbtion and diffusion is a good strategy and that it's important to try to deal with first reflections, so you may want to add a couple of absorbers and some bass treatment before adding more diffusors.
My main idea would be to come up with a variety of things that are artistic, functional, and if possible, adjustable including both things that absorb and diffuse. These would include things ranging from helmholtz resonators for bass traps, to paintings that act as absorbers and/or diffusors. The goal would be to end up with a room that is well treated acoustically and remain visually appealing and tastefully done.
5 of your things in a room would be too much for me from a visual standpoint. 2 more might be ok, but I'd hang the others from the ceiling and make them able to pivot on the top piece strung to the ceiling or wall mount them and pivot on the "arm".
I remember reading somewhere that alternating absorbtion and diffusion is a good strategy and that it's important to try to deal with first reflections, so you may want to add a couple of absorbers and some bass treatment before adding more diffusors.
The goal would be to end up with a room that is well treated acoustically and remain visually appealing and tastefully done.
http://www.psaudio.com/articles/listening_room_9.asp
I've seen that room before. Tastefull, but a little too much like a library to suit my tastes. I was definitely thinking about one bookshelf though filled with different sized books as a nice diffusor and maybe even absorb some bass with all that mass.
Timn8ter said:
Definitely not a "treatment" method I'd want to copy.
Oooo!
please give us the full scoop on ALL the drivers! (make, params, cost, etc.)
each one looks very interesting (I love graphite injected woofers, and a titanium fullrange - never even heard of such a thing.. drool.. and the tweeter sounds like a TAD but it doesn't look like one.)
please give us the full scoop on ALL the drivers! (make, params, cost, etc.)
each one looks very interesting (I love graphite injected woofers, and a titanium fullrange - never even heard of such a thing.. drool.. and the tweeter sounds like a TAD but it doesn't look like one.)
ScottG said:Oooo!
please give us the full scoop on ALL the drivers! (make, params, cost, etc.)
each one looks very interesting (I love graphite injected woofers, and a titanium fullrange - never even heard of such a thing.. drool.. and the tweeter sounds like a TAD but it doesn't look like one.)
They are all early vintage TAD. Circa 1986. The tweeters are the PT-R29A. They are good from 4k to 50k and are about $269.00 each last I looked but are no longer available. The mids are the 12-746A, a 4 3/4" Boron/Titanium mixture. One piece cone and dust cap with a Faraday Ring. It is incredibly thin. I know because I put my finger through another one while dusting it. They were $349.00 each. The woofers are the 30-784A, a 12" graphite cone with a Faraday ring and dual voice coils.
The cones are very brittle/ridgid. Don't ask how I know that 🙁
They are $536.00 each from Pioneer and should still be available.
The system sensitivity is about 88db/W. All the drivers are very heavy and very well built.
I am quite happy with the way they are comming around.
Not having to bi or tri amp them is a real bonus.
This is all the info I have at my finger tips.
Hope it helps.
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