Hi all,
I'm building a streamer+DAC and just got the enclosure and the 7" touch screen. I need to cut a rectangular hole in the aluminum front panel which is 8mm thick. The screen will take up majority of the front panel's surface. I don't have much tools except a drill so my options are limited. I could drill a few holes at the start and use a hand saw with subsequent filing, but I'm afraid I will just ruin the beautiful aluminum panel. I'm in the UK and I would rather have it laser cut for a reasonable compensation. Could anyone recommend what kind of establishments I can reach out to? I have searched this forum and saw people recommending a nibbling tool, but I'm afraid the front panel is a bit too thick for this.
I'm building a streamer+DAC and just got the enclosure and the 7" touch screen. I need to cut a rectangular hole in the aluminum front panel which is 8mm thick. The screen will take up majority of the front panel's surface. I don't have much tools except a drill so my options are limited. I could drill a few holes at the start and use a hand saw with subsequent filing, but I'm afraid I will just ruin the beautiful aluminum panel. I'm in the UK and I would rather have it laser cut for a reasonable compensation. Could anyone recommend what kind of establishments I can reach out to? I have searched this forum and saw people recommending a nibbling tool, but I'm afraid the front panel is a bit too thick for this.
Attachments
Try a makerspace or model engineering group.
It could be done with a mini mill. You would have a radius in the corner due to the round milling tool.
Alternatively, a hand router should be able to cut aluminium though I've not tried it.
You would need a template jig which can be a piece of 9mm MDF with the rectangular hole in.
Think about if you want the panel rebated at the back so the screen is not too recessed.
Actually, I'm not clear if you want the screen behind the panel or poking through the panel.
I would expect paying commercial rates for a one-off job would be prohibitive but if you wanted to try just google laser cutting services.
If you revealed your location (nearest town) then you might get more precise recommendations.
It could be done with a mini mill. You would have a radius in the corner due to the round milling tool.
Alternatively, a hand router should be able to cut aluminium though I've not tried it.
You would need a template jig which can be a piece of 9mm MDF with the rectangular hole in.
Think about if you want the panel rebated at the back so the screen is not too recessed.
Actually, I'm not clear if you want the screen behind the panel or poking through the panel.
I would expect paying commercial rates for a one-off job would be prohibitive but if you wanted to try just google laser cutting services.
If you revealed your location (nearest town) then you might get more precise recommendations.
Thanks @russc ! Yes, router is a good option, I just need to buy it for this one-off job - I've already seen some videos how to cut aluminium with it, and indeed people use MDF with a hole for guidance. I live in Oxford and only found this company www.rennd.com - I could travel to London to do it as well.
The screen is almost the same thickness as the panel, ideally I would like to have the screen level with the surface of the panel. This is possible if I shave off about 0.5mm on the back of the panel for those little round tips of the screen with the holes for the screws.
The screen is almost the same thickness as the panel, ideally I would like to have the screen level with the surface of the panel. This is possible if I shave off about 0.5mm on the back of the panel for those little round tips of the screen with the holes for the screws.
Bolt the aluminium to the MDF using the 4 corner holes so it doesn't move.
Ideally you'd practice first.
If you don't have any scrap ally then make a smaller hole template first and try cut a smaller hole in the panel for practice.
Use the full size template on another piece of MDF to check the hole comes out the exact size - test fit the screen.
If fitting the screen through then the hole will have to be quite precise to look good.
Maybe some black PVC tape across the back of the joint to stop light showing through.
Just note you will have the tool radius in the corners unless you hand file it after.
As I say, I've never machined alu this way. It may be easier to jigsaw the bulk out & just finish the edges with the router.
You could try City of Oxford Society of Model Engineers. Someone there may be willing to mill it for a donation.
Ideally you'd practice first.
If you don't have any scrap ally then make a smaller hole template first and try cut a smaller hole in the panel for practice.
Use the full size template on another piece of MDF to check the hole comes out the exact size - test fit the screen.
If fitting the screen through then the hole will have to be quite precise to look good.
Maybe some black PVC tape across the back of the joint to stop light showing through.
Just note you will have the tool radius in the corners unless you hand file it after.
As I say, I've never machined alu this way. It may be easier to jigsaw the bulk out & just finish the edges with the router.
You could try City of Oxford Society of Model Engineers. Someone there may be willing to mill it for a donation.
Awesome tips, thanks! That company just quoted my 110 GBP, I might as well buy a cheap router and do it myself. Will also need to get MDF and scrap ally for practice as you are saying. I want to invest in the tools that I will be able to reuse in the future. Maybe for DIY speakers? 🙂
I’ve contracted work to this company, Precintl, also called LAVA 3D Printing.
https://www.3dprintingservice.cc/cnc-machining/
They’re in China and communicate promptly in English. The finished pieces are both accurate and fit exceptional. Their cnc machines change tool heads on the fly, and they have tools to make what other machine shops couldn’t, so they can make complex parts.
https://www.3dprintingservice.cc/cnc-machining/
They’re in China and communicate promptly in English. The finished pieces are both accurate and fit exceptional. Their cnc machines change tool heads on the fly, and they have tools to make what other machine shops couldn’t, so they can make complex parts.
CNC cutting a hole in a piece that already has it's outer profile cut out is more time (and money) than having the CNC simply cut out the whole part including the profile and mounting holes and LCD hole. The reason for this is that the operator must position the piece accurately in the machine and he only gets one chance to get it right. Usually he will have to pocket out a template in wood that will hold the piece, that way he just uses the same X/Y origin and the pocket holds your piece, he changes nothing with the template clamping just inserts your piece into the pocket. I've done this on my CNC, its the only way to position the piece accurately. Usually you machine the whole piece outer profile and holes all from the same origin, that's easy. CNC'ing into the field of a part that already exists involves some tricks (time and money).
I would get a $500 small CNC machine and make the whole part over from 8mm flat stock, or machine this part using the template pocket method I described. It will be a learning journey yes, but in the end worth it, and fun.
I have this little guy (link below) in my basement shop, I did get the extended bed for it so I can machine up to 300mm x 300mm panels. In my garage I have a machine that can do up to 24 x 24 inches, but the little machine I enjoy using more. Also this spindle is for wood/plastic, I use a AC wired Makita trim router 1.25 horsepower, cuts aluminum beautifully with a good bit and using the proper feed rate and spindle speed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BL3YYQVN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/live/video/056d5b535e26405eb7ad57975c3e2580?ref_=dp_vse_ibvc0
I would get a $500 small CNC machine and make the whole part over from 8mm flat stock, or machine this part using the template pocket method I described. It will be a learning journey yes, but in the end worth it, and fun.
I have this little guy (link below) in my basement shop, I did get the extended bed for it so I can machine up to 300mm x 300mm panels. In my garage I have a machine that can do up to 24 x 24 inches, but the little machine I enjoy using more. Also this spindle is for wood/plastic, I use a AC wired Makita trim router 1.25 horsepower, cuts aluminum beautifully with a good bit and using the proper feed rate and spindle speed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BL3YYQVN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/live/video/056d5b535e26405eb7ad57975c3e2580?ref_=dp_vse_ibvc0
Last edited:
Front Panel Express told me they would machine parts I supplied as long as they could complete the process from one side. I ended up doing the hole pattern myself but they were willing to do it at a reasonable cost.
Carbide tipped router bit on a good plunge router with a plywood guide is the cleanest way. Go in one mm steps and lube the bit often. Slow steady motion is key. Aluminum will gall the bit if you go too fast and melt instead of cut. 8mm is seriously thick and will take manu passes to do right. the corners will be rounded the same diameter as the cutting bit. You can square them off with a file but they are less likely to crack if rounded. Metal wants to fracture at any sharp corner, which is why airplane windows have rounded corners with no sharp angles. They found that out the hard way! Square windows were ripping the aluminum from the corners due to the stress on the body of the plane! Oops!
How about make a 2 to 3mm thick aluminum frame for the touch screen panel? I think it is much easier to fabricate.
Luckily aluminum is somewhat soft and easy to machine.
either use a router jig frame.
Or since a one time job.
Just cut wood straight pieces
and use high strength double sticky tape
to attach your jig.
Then use straight bit with bearing follower.
Screens are common with car stereo.
and often include a framing bezel.
So even with a metal bit and jigsaw hand cut.
The bezel will hide any crimes/imperfections.
Cannot recommend laser for your region.
But would add the cost of labor and setup files.
will be the same or not more than a router
straight bit, tape and 4 pieces of wood
either use a router jig frame.
Or since a one time job.
Just cut wood straight pieces
and use high strength double sticky tape
to attach your jig.
Then use straight bit with bearing follower.
Screens are common with car stereo.
and often include a framing bezel.
So even with a metal bit and jigsaw hand cut.
The bezel will hide any crimes/imperfections.
Cannot recommend laser for your region.
But would add the cost of labor and setup files.
will be the same or not more than a router
straight bit, tape and 4 pieces of wood
Ask around for a wire EDM machine service, much cheaper than laser here in India.
Or ask the display seller if has a matching housing. That will be mass produced, so much more accurate and well finished, at a reasonable cost.
I pay about Rupees 0.12 per square mm for wire EDM here in India, taper cut is more expensive.
Your job is about 24 inches, or 600 mm approx. long x 8 mm, or 4800 square mm.
That rate is for regular customers, odd items will cost about double.
That will cost me about $7.25...
Or ask the display seller if has a matching housing. That will be mass produced, so much more accurate and well finished, at a reasonable cost.
I pay about Rupees 0.12 per square mm for wire EDM here in India, taper cut is more expensive.
Your job is about 24 inches, or 600 mm approx. long x 8 mm, or 4800 square mm.
That rate is for regular customers, odd items will cost about double.
That will cost me about $7.25...
Make a round hole slightly smaller than short side on a lathe...less than one hour, go till corners with hacksaw / milling / chop saw.
If you are skilled, use a hack saw, angle grinder is wrong choice as it is hard to control for this because of low power and high thickness.
You can use one to do the final light polishing cuts.
The gantry type milling machine with CNC linked to above is a toy / hobby machine, they start about $12,000 here for a small size machine of half decent quality, with a moving table / rigid spindle and tool changer, made in India or Far East.
Japanese are far costlier, but one you use those, you will feel something is wrong with the cheap ones.
The $500 one is okay for occasional work, the convenience of in house equipment cannot be overstated.
If you are skilled, use a hack saw, angle grinder is wrong choice as it is hard to control for this because of low power and high thickness.
You can use one to do the final light polishing cuts.
The gantry type milling machine with CNC linked to above is a toy / hobby machine, they start about $12,000 here for a small size machine of half decent quality, with a moving table / rigid spindle and tool changer, made in India or Far East.
Japanese are far costlier, but one you use those, you will feel something is wrong with the cheap ones.
The $500 one is okay for occasional work, the convenience of in house equipment cannot be overstated.
I can attest for the $500 machine as I also have a $10,000 machine in the garage, this little machine is actually more stable than the big machine for aluminum. This little guy is quite stiff in gantry and table, both axis. It has dual linear bearings and guide screws and the gantry and frame is of 10mm thick aluminum, solid. The shipped spindle however is hobby quality, but they have an adapter add on to hold a Makita router 1.25 HP, plenty of power. I'd cut the opening with a 1/4 inch hogging bit at 18,000 rpm, uphill climb, cutting a depth of 4mm per pass, start the feed rate on the slow side then speed it up based on the chip size you're getting, you want the largest chips sweet spot. Also do a few practice runs on scrap wood and some scrap aluminum. Then you have a machine for future projects. This machine is also great for making and drilling your own PCB boards.
But you will have to pocket out a template base, because you're trying to land a hole into the center of a piece thats already outer profiled. This aspect is the rub, more skill. Or you can more easily machine a whole panel from scratch.
I think that is a lot of effort for a single piece, unless of course you intend to use it in the future.
Making template, then a CAD drawing, then actual machining, it is a lot of things to learn for someone new to the field.
Sometimes we do things which seem easy to those watching, the person watching does not at times appreciate the experience that has been gained in the past to make it look easy.
How may people in this forum can dial gauge accuracy (0.1 mm max. run out) center a job on a four (independent) jaw chuck on a lathe in 10 minutes?
Making template, then a CAD drawing, then actual machining, it is a lot of things to learn for someone new to the field.
Sometimes we do things which seem easy to those watching, the person watching does not at times appreciate the experience that has been gained in the past to make it look easy.
How may people in this forum can dial gauge accuracy (0.1 mm max. run out) center a job on a four (independent) jaw chuck on a lathe in 10 minutes?
I just did this using an up cut router bit on a Bosch router. Making the guide's is the most important part. Practice on wood first to make sure you have the right dimensions etc.
I did not use any lubrication. I found it was not worth the trouble, if you go slow. I cut 0.5mm on each pass.
Centering the bit in the guide bushing can be a pain. I found that you do not need to get it perfect if you keep the orientation of the router to the work piece the same while cutting. Having a perfectly squared hole which might be off by a few tenths of a mm is better then not having perfectly straight lines for the screen.
I did not use any lubrication. I found it was not worth the trouble, if you go slow. I cut 0.5mm on each pass.
Centering the bit in the guide bushing can be a pain. I found that you do not need to get it perfect if you keep the orientation of the router to the work piece the same while cutting. Having a perfectly squared hole which might be off by a few tenths of a mm is better then not having perfectly straight lines for the screen.
The small home-workship approach (time consuming for something this large but doable if you've no other approach)
Drill 4 holes (wide enough for a hacksaw blade) inset about 1mm from each corner, hacksaw to roughly cut out the rectangle, with about 0.5mm clearance from the final dimensions, then careful filing to enlarge the rectangle and square the corners. Know how to use a file properly (cross filing, draw filing).
8mm thick is a strange choice, here 2 to 3mm would probably be perfectly adequate and cheaper all round. Most panel mounting hardware assumes 3mm / 1/8" max...
Drill 4 holes (wide enough for a hacksaw blade) inset about 1mm from each corner, hacksaw to roughly cut out the rectangle, with about 0.5mm clearance from the final dimensions, then careful filing to enlarge the rectangle and square the corners. Know how to use a file properly (cross filing, draw filing).
8mm thick is a strange choice, here 2 to 3mm would probably be perfectly adequate and cheaper all round. Most panel mounting hardware assumes 3mm / 1/8" max...