Just first impressions while filling today - it feels quite a bit stiffer than the first one thanks to the additional ribs. It also feels heavier although it really is not. The pre-work with the file on the edges and coating with putty will most probably pay back, the inside looks already much better now.
Pelanj, I am about to buy a printer and I would like to ask you your experiences with printing sizes. I see you mention you have the FLSUN SR, which is 26x26x33cm (while the max height seems to be limited to the center axis). I am thinking about a 25.6x26.5.25.6 and 35x35x35 models (Bamboo and Voron).
Given your experience, considering the necessary sectioning due to the geometries involved and the trouble of joining parts, do you think it be worth to go for the larger printer size? How troublesome is the joining, filling of parts? For sure, the bigger printer the better, but I am asking myself how much work will really be spared with the bigger printer, which is, obviously, more expensive.
By the way, I am mostly interested in ~300 Hz horns, so they will be somewhat larger than you 62cm horn here (like ~90 cm), I would appreciate you comments!
Given your experience, considering the necessary sectioning due to the geometries involved and the trouble of joining parts, do you think it be worth to go for the larger printer size? How troublesome is the joining, filling of parts? For sure, the bigger printer the better, but I am asking myself how much work will really be spared with the bigger printer, which is, obviously, more expensive.
By the way, I am mostly interested in ~300 Hz horns, so they will be somewhat larger than you 62cm horn here (like ~90 cm), I would appreciate you comments!
My advice would be to buy as large printer as you can affort. For best print quality and speed, do not get one with a moving bed. So either a delta or corexy style printer would work fine. These are also easier to build an enclosure for. Splitting and joining needs some extra work, but it is not that bad, once you figure out the tolerances.
It really helps to make smaller test prints to test the fitting.
Voron looks really good - that is the one I would buy if I ever wanted to upgrade mine. I learned to live with the limitations of my current printers and for really large stuff, I use a CNC router or a combination of printed and machined parts. This horn is about as large as I would go for - and also the number of parts.
And I recommend at least 0.6 mm nozzle. If you can tune the printer to 0.8 or 1 mm, that would be even better.
It really helps to make smaller test prints to test the fitting.
Voron looks really good - that is the one I would buy if I ever wanted to upgrade mine. I learned to live with the limitations of my current printers and for really large stuff, I use a CNC router or a combination of printed and machined parts. This horn is about as large as I would go for - and also the number of parts.
And I recommend at least 0.6 mm nozzle. If you can tune the printer to 0.8 or 1 mm, that would be even better.
Thanks for your reply. The Voron is really my first choice too, but because I am not experienced with printers I have thought that a ready assembled, no fuss option would be better to start off. The Bamboo Lab option seems to be of great print quality out of the box, fast and around half the price (when taking into consideration printed parts and RPi for the Voron), albeit smaller. It has a 8mm nozzle option too. If printing diagonally on the bed, I believe It is possible to pull 35cm wide parts (absolute max) on it, so three sections across might get me to around the ~90cm I need. Still, the Voron would allow bigger parts to be printed and mods/repairs/refinements in the future. If I go with it I will go with the Formbot one.
Now that you mentioned you have a CNC, I have also been looking into this https://docs.v1engineering.com/lowrider/ . I have still to research more on cnc's.
Now that you mentioned you have a CNC, I have also been looking into this https://docs.v1engineering.com/lowrider/ . I have still to research more on cnc's.
Pelanj, what did you end up doing with these horns?
I wanted to ask what was your technique on the second one where you (as far I understand) filled the inside? What did you fill it with? Did you notice a considerable change in resonance/vibrations working this way? Did the back-side ribs add rigidity and was it beneficial? What is your wall thickness?
One of the nicest approaches I have seen for filling is from mabat , his connecting pieces for joining "petals" and the sparse gyroid infill. I have to start finding out how to prepare the horns in Fusion to do this. I am about to order some PLA-CF and see how it goes...
I wanted to ask what was your technique on the second one where you (as far I understand) filled the inside? What did you fill it with? Did you notice a considerable change in resonance/vibrations working this way? Did the back-side ribs add rigidity and was it beneficial? What is your wall thickness?
One of the nicest approaches I have seen for filling is from mabat , his connecting pieces for joining "petals" and the sparse gyroid infill. I have to start finding out how to prepare the horns in Fusion to do this. I am about to order some PLA-CF and see how it goes...
I thought there had been second (improved) version.
Docali, I have taken note of your comments on PLA-CF and metal filled filament. I am trying to sort out materials (filament and fill) and a method to connect the parts, such that one can assemble them with ease. To try there is also PLA-GF (glass fiber), PLA w/ stone filling and TPU (65D and harder).
No second horn from PLA planned. But there is a pair in plywood in the making.
For any suggestions to divide and connect parts we have to wait for @pelanj or search the forum.
I have printed a throat adapter with PLA/bronze and I like the result. Maybe filling parts after printing could also be a valid option.
For any suggestions to divide and connect parts we have to wait for @pelanj or search the forum.
I have printed a throat adapter with PLA/bronze and I like the result. Maybe filling parts after printing could also be a valid option.
The saga continues here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...rns-picture-heavy-thread.402587/#post-7435393 - the all wooden WN300ALO horn made with the help of a CNC router.
I have realized I have this horn unfinished. The inner surface was filled with acrylic putty and just one layer of acrylic spray paint, the walls are stil hollow (infill only). DE72 driver is mounted now. A knock test suggests, that the extra ribs were worth adding. Might still need some modeling clay around the mouth for ultimate damping though. I think I have found my favorite color combination for my horns.
Definitely not as nice or damped as the wooden ones, but should be enjoyable, too.
Definitely not as nice or damped as the wooden ones, but should be enjoyable, too.
