Lampucera

I will be buying a Lampucera in about a week to 10 days and then listening to it and then buy a some op amps I won't be in a big rush because it will sound better than my SMSL Sanskrit 10th mk3 🙂. Which means I have time to look at People's opinions. Does the Lampucera come with one op amp chip or two. I have seen this one.
 

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Those 2 large chips are surface mount (SOIC) - not in a socket. You should learn the difference. Surface mount chips have smaller legs going out sideways, not longer and straight down legs like socketed chips (DIP). They are soldered directly to the board.

Those are the Cirrus Logic DAC chips.

When I replaced the NE5532 in a V-DAC I used LT1364 or LT1361. They can fit directly in the same socket.
 
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The NE5532 in the picture is an old Signetics NE5532, and they have been out of production for a long time. Either the old one was used, unsoldered from some device, or it is a fake (or sanded and re-marked). Those old ones sound better than the old TI NE5532 but also modern productions. I have a few pieces, used who knows where and who knows how much. There are a number of opamps that can come into play here, but there is always the possibility of oscillation occurring when switching opamps. If there is no experience, ang some measuring equipment, it's better not to touch them.
 
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And I also have Sparkos SS3602, and some Bursons (V5, V6, V7). SS3602 sounds more aggressive, tighter than Burson and NE5532, lots of detail, punchy sound. I personally like it, but it doesn't mean you will like it. Now that's your game, best to borrow and try it. If your system sound is on the bright side, avoid Sparkos. In that case, Burson V6 Classic dual or V7 Classic dual will probably be better. But who will know in advance. Burson V6 Vivid, V7 Vivid is similar to Sparkos, just a little softer sounding.
 
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Here you have double sided PCB and metallized holes. It is difficult to desolder without a vacuum pump gun. There is a high probability of damaging the PCB. Everything seems good to me on that PCB, I think you should limit yourself to only replacing the opamp.
 
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Those 2 large chips are surface mount (SOIC) - not in a socket. You should learn the difference. Surface mount chips have smaller legs going out sideways, not longer and straight down legs like socketed chips (DIP). They are soldered directly to the board.

Those are the Cirrus Logic DAC chips.

When I replaced the NE5532 in a V-DAC I used LT1364 or LT1361. They can fit directly in the same socket.
I will start with the op amp first and go from there 🙂. Do People use the Wolfson DAC WM4870 I have seen that on this website.
http://www.lampizator.eu/lampizator/lampucera/cd dac lampucera lampizator.html
 
Here you have double sided PCB and metallized holes. It is difficult to desolder without a vacuum pump gun. There is a high probability of damaging the PCB. Everything seems good to me on that PCB, I think you should limit yourself to only replacing the opamp.
I know someone who worked in recording studios soldering equipment he is really good 🙂. I would buy a desoldering gun. I am not in a rush because I want to appreciate the improvement of firstly the Lampucera being better than what I have and then replacing the op amp and appreciate that sound quality 🙂.
 
And I also have Sparkos SS3602, and some Bursons (V5, V6, V7). SS3602 sounds more aggressive, tighter than Burson and NE5532, lots of detail, punchy sound. I personally like it, but it doesn't mean you will like it. Now that's your game, best to borrow and try it. If your system sound is on the bright side, avoid Sparkos. In that case, Burson V6 Classic dual or V7 Classic dual will probably be better. But who will know in advance. Burson V6 Vivid, V7 Vivid is similar to Sparkos, just a little softer sounding.
I want a good sound stage 🙂 I find the sound at the moment in our small living room hard sounding and gets loud too quickly.
 
A good sound stage mostly depends on the recording itself and the position of the speakers in the room. Opamp can't do miracles there. You have to experiment with the position of the speakers first. If they are very close to the back wall, the sound image is flat.
PS
If the sound is as you describe it, don't take Sparkos. 😁
 
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FIrst the traces are poor on this PCB, don't modify it , you might want to replace the OPAMP socked with a prong one.

Then, the opamp is a buffer with no gain, no need to change the opamp, the stock opamp is fine.

Why have a 'discrete' opamp with more tiny circuits in plastic case instead of one plastic case with all the same temperature coefficient? Just because it looks cool?

Analog Devices = AD

OPA2134PA, this is mono and dark sounding, similar to PCM dacs
OPA2604AP, cant remember anything
NE5534, decent
JRC553= included with the lampucera
Ad8620=good sound
Ad8599 (8597 is the mono) = this is seriously good, lot of air, detail
My favorite is ...AD797 if I can remember, I sold it with my sound card in which it was installed.

I recommend you use this one : ada4898, never try it but it might just do the job perfectly, no need for anything else.
https://www.analog.com/en/products/ada4898-2.html
 
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A good sound stage mostly depends on the recording itself and the position of the speakers in the room. Opamp can't do miracles there. You have to experiment with the position of the speakers first. If they are very close to the back wall, the sound image is flat.
PS
If the sound is as you describe it, don't take Sparkos. 😁
🙂 I understand about speaker positioning and moving them about to find what works best and not having them against a wall 🙂andI know that not all recordings you can get a good sound stage. Thank you that your spending time to help and advice me 🙂.