Yes, to my ears, the 193v sounds better. To me, the 193v sounded better with virtually no warm-up and no break-in time. After 45 minutes, there was no question.
From first turning it on, the 193v had more depth of sound. I"m not talking about sound-stage. At this point, all three amps sound-stage: height, width depth are the about same.
I listened to a bass line from a specific song on my test CD 100 times at least. It bumps along on the other amps. With the 193v, it's an interwoven groove. It's quick and clear and it's right there!
You know when they say, "You can hear the singer's lips part just before they start singing.." I can hear that too, and I also can hear their tongue peel off the roof of their mouth before they start singing. It's that delicate a resolution. Amazing!
I'm not saying no other amps can do this. Just that I don't have one that does this.
What might be amazing to me, might be old news to you. I might be easly impressed.
My speakers aren't particularly special. Using a 6.5" Dayton Audio full-range in a Voight pipe. 94.7db sensitivity. B1 as pre and a Naim CDP. AudioQuest F-14 (ancient) cable.
Home made ICs. That's it.
Sorry for being wordy, but I like to hear what people think of the sound they get out of their DIY gear. I like to return the favor.
From first turning it on, the 193v had more depth of sound. I"m not talking about sound-stage. At this point, all three amps sound-stage: height, width depth are the about same.
I listened to a bass line from a specific song on my test CD 100 times at least. It bumps along on the other amps. With the 193v, it's an interwoven groove. It's quick and clear and it's right there!
You know when they say, "You can hear the singer's lips part just before they start singing.." I can hear that too, and I also can hear their tongue peel off the roof of their mouth before they start singing. It's that delicate a resolution. Amazing!
I'm not saying no other amps can do this. Just that I don't have one that does this.
What might be amazing to me, might be old news to you. I might be easly impressed.
My speakers aren't particularly special. Using a 6.5" Dayton Audio full-range in a Voight pipe. 94.7db sensitivity. B1 as pre and a Naim CDP. AudioQuest F-14 (ancient) cable.
Home made ICs. That's it.
Sorry for being wordy, but I like to hear what people think of the sound they get out of their DIY gear. I like to return the favor.
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I'm glad you're enjoying them 🙂
I always thought the CCS version was the darkest of the bunch. The inductor versions are still my favorites.
That is totaly OK. Thank you. I hadn't been convinced to the L'amp because of its low gain, but after experience with F4 amp concluded that was not so bad. So decided to built resistor version and I'm satisfied by what Michael offered us. I have got spare pair of 2SK82 so your opinion incourage me to try another version of fabulous L'Amp.
I'm hoping you guys can help me understand something.
I put the amps back on the bench to check the voltages.
I saw there was around 22v dc at the output, but there is no hum or noise at the test speaker.
Have to put my ear right at the speaker to hear any noise at all. Music plays fine through them. Double checked the meter and its set to vdc 200v range. 😕
Does the input need to be grounded during this test? Just guessing since the only difference is an input impedance when the RCA cable is used.
Thanks
Vince
I put the amps back on the bench to check the voltages.
I saw there was around 22v dc at the output, but there is no hum or noise at the test speaker.
Have to put my ear right at the speaker to hear any noise at all. Music plays fine through them. Double checked the meter and its set to vdc 200v range. 😕
Does the input need to be grounded during this test? Just guessing since the only difference is an input impedance when the RCA cable is used.
Thanks
Vince
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I don't think so , ZM. Built it as shown in the schema. No mods, just 193v version.
Should I use a bleeder? Large value? 47k?
Should I use a bleeder? Large value? 47k?
calculate
max output swing is ....
or - even better and easier - L'Amp is hawing how much Watts at output at 8R ...
then divide that power with Rbleed/8R ratio
(put 3W in case of 150-220R)
(or put 3 x 1K plain metal films in parallel and chill ).........
max output swing is ....
or - even better and easier - L'Amp is hawing how much Watts at output at 8R ...
then divide that power with Rbleed/8R ratio
(put 3W in case of 150-220R)
(or put 3 x 1K plain metal films in parallel and chill ).........
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The amp ideally shouldn't be turned on and off without a speaker connected anyway. The schematic includes an 8 ohm load at the output.
When you try to measure DC at the output without a speaker and or bleeder resistor connected, you are measuring the voltage on the cap which is discharging through the 1M resistance of your meter, and that will take a long, long time to reach zero.
I've mentioned all of this before here, and a note has been added to both articles.
When you try to measure DC at the output without a speaker and or bleeder resistor connected, you are measuring the voltage on the cap which is discharging through the 1M resistance of your meter, and that will take a long, long time to reach zero.
I've mentioned all of this before here, and a note has been added to both articles.
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No worries. I just wanted to explain why you were seeing what you were seeing and take some of the mystery out. 🙂
I have a standard Panasonic 15k cap at the output. I'd like to by-pass the cap.
I looked at couple of similar topologies (Zen 4 and Zen 9) and it appears to be OK to proceed.
Anyone try by-passing the output cap? What did you use?
I looked at couple of similar topologies (Zen 4 and Zen 9) and it appears to be OK to proceed.
Anyone try by-passing the output cap? What did you use?
I just looked at the ironamp which caught my interest...
I have a balanced source so I have a 10k/10k Jensen JT-11P-1 and so I wonder if I should put it in front of the simple sit as planned, or if it would be better to do the Ironamp frontend and skip the input cap, R1 and R2.
I have a balanced source so I have a 10k/10k Jensen JT-11P-1 and so I wonder if I should put it in front of the simple sit as planned, or if it would be better to do the Ironamp frontend and skip the input cap, R1 and R2.
Should work 😉 Easy enough to try. Mind your wiring. You might need the damping network. What say the group?
