I have the plans (dimensions for all the pieces of wood) for .75" or 19mm wall thickness Lab Sub Build. I can only get 24mm wall material. How do I compensate the dimensions to stay true to all the internal volumes? Add 10mm to everything?
Greets!
No, you'll have to redesign the entire horn to preserve its per unit area expansion.
That said, I've never paid much attention to this horn, but I re-calc'd a sim of a similar bulk horn and the minor increase in CR and reduced cab Vb, mouth area simmed a barely measurable and completely inaudible difference, so if I were in your situation I'd center the internal baffles to split the difference, but as always YMMV, caveat emptor, etc..
Might want to ask here just to be sure though if it's a prosound app: http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/forum/category-view.asp
GM
No, you'll have to redesign the entire horn to preserve its per unit area expansion.
That said, I've never paid much attention to this horn, but I re-calc'd a sim of a similar bulk horn and the minor increase in CR and reduced cab Vb, mouth area simmed a barely measurable and completely inaudible difference, so if I were in your situation I'd center the internal baffles to split the difference, but as always YMMV, caveat emptor, etc..
Might want to ask here just to be sure though if it's a prosound app: http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/forum/category-view.asp
GM
Search harder. 18mm is fairly generic and is one of the most common sizes.toshiba_nz said:
It's a difficult build, so plan a lot of time and space to do it.
Greets GM
http://www.geocities.com/hulkss/page3.html has the cad files in a Model Press Myriad format, but the free Myriad reader wont let you change the dimms.
I may just go with your sugestion
Hey Brett, I can get 18mm ply, in a low quality pine. Still not the 19.05mm high quality material thickness used in the plans. I thought about using a thicker ply to compensate for the inferior material. do you have/build the lab sub? Do you play bass thru it? What do you use for tops? What amps and what do you cross the lab sub over @? What wood did you make it from?
http://www.geocities.com/hulkss/page3.html has the cad files in a Model Press Myriad format, but the free Myriad reader wont let you change the dimms.
I may just go with your sugestion
Hey Brett, I can get 18mm ply, in a low quality pine. Still not the 19.05mm high quality material thickness used in the plans. I thought about using a thicker ply to compensate for the inferior material. do you have/build the lab sub? Do you play bass thru it? What do you use for tops? What amps and what do you cross the lab sub over @? What wood did you make it from?
Where do you plan to use the LabSub? A single cab will not get you down in frequency and these were designed by Tom Danley to be used as a set of 6 cabs to get down to 27Hz.
However, you could build an extended adaptor to correct the LF response for even a single cab.
However, you could build an extended adaptor to correct the LF response for even a single cab.
I made mine from an 18mm set of plans. I may still have a copy here somewhere.toshiba_nz said:
Also, if this is for domestic use, some of the Tapped horn designs are fantastic.
I'm going to use Don Bunce's LAB12 design (as I have 4 NIB drivers spare), and then there's Erik (Volvotreter's) 3015LF based design, post 666 in the TH thread. MUCH, MUCH, MUCH, MUCH easier build. Hint: try these first; easier to mod to the wood you have available.
Hi Samuel.. my living room. Its pretty small 4m x 5m. I want to try the version 3 Lab sub. I also had in mind to incorperate them into some bass guitar rig
Hi Brett,
Don Bunce's says he prefers the Lab12 folded TH, but he only gives plans for the straight TH with few details on the construction of the folded version.
He mentions something about cutting the straight one in half, and gluing/screwing it to the side of the other one...
Do you have these plans, or can you get them? Cheers
Don Bunce's says he prefers the Lab12 folded TH, but he only gives plans for the straight TH with few details on the construction of the folded version.
He mentions something about cutting the straight one in half, and gluing/screwing it to the side of the other one...
Do you have these plans, or can you get them? Cheers
I wouldn't bother with a LAB for a BG rig. Doesn't go low enough in single units, is too big and heavy. A single Eminence 3015LF in 120L will give more than adequate SPL and LF extension. Add something else above it if you like full range. Anything more than this and you sould be through the PA.toshiba_nz said:
Through further listening tests I decided the difference in sound was due to room placement,rather than folding.I would suggest building it straight,unless the folded size is more suitable.
I had drawn up a crude plan,but never got a chance to make a better one with dimensions.
Here is the original plan,there are a total of 10 pieces,4 internal,and the remaining 6 are the top,bottom,sides,and front and back.You will need to add some bracing.It is not exactly to scale,the internal pieces should go up to about 8 inches from the top. The dimensions are the same as for the straight horn.Plans for it are at post # 176 of the collaborative tapped horn project in the subwoofer forum.
This folding scheme was based on the Jensen Transflex,and should be usable for any other tapped horn design,as well.
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/3615/foldedtappedhorndw2.jpg
I had drawn up a crude plan,but never got a chance to make a better one with dimensions.
Here is the original plan,there are a total of 10 pieces,4 internal,and the remaining 6 are the top,bottom,sides,and front and back.You will need to add some bracing.It is not exactly to scale,the internal pieces should go up to about 8 inches from the top. The dimensions are the same as for the straight horn.Plans for it are at post # 176 of the collaborative tapped horn project in the subwoofer forum.
This folding scheme was based on the Jensen Transflex,and should be usable for any other tapped horn design,as well.
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/3615/foldedtappedhorndw2.jpg
Still looking forward to doing mine. Went back to school last week, so time is tight, but they will be done.Don Bunce said:
Thanks Brett and Don. I think I'll give the straight TH a go. I kinda wanted the response to extend out (up) as long as possable if it dosnt sound too crappy...What should I be thinking of crossing them over at?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.