Pinkmouse's PCB has the Winter/Summer setting for the switch to change to ClassA or to ClassAB optimal bias.
It was the earlier Thread, about 8 to 10 years ago.
There is no earlier Thread, so Pink's PCB must be in this Thread.
It was the earlier Thread, about 8 to 10 years ago.
There is no earlier Thread, so Pink's PCB must be in this Thread.
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my bad. i meant composite picture, so that i can redraw it in eagle. file would be nicer, of course. but that's what i searched for unsuccessfully.
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Andrew
Jan Dupont boards had the switchable bias as I remember, My Pinkmouse boards didn't have the option, unless some jerry rigged them in and never saw it.
Could be wrong, since it's been awhile.
Regards
David
Jan Dupont boards had the switchable bias as I remember, My Pinkmouse boards didn't have the option, unless some jerry rigged them in and never saw it.
Could be wrong, since it's been awhile.
Regards
David
AV,
you must be right. I remembered wrong.
Those PCBs in posts 8584 & 8586 are what I have and they don't have the Summer/Winter switch.
you must be right. I remembered wrong.
Those PCBs in posts 8584 & 8586 are what I have and they don't have the Summer/Winter switch.
You are correct..
But remember Jan's also had the reversed pot traces that needed the fix..
Both boards (Jan's and pink mouse) were very good.
still going
Hard to believe that my Krell clone is almost 10 years old. Still going strong. I've got the Pinkmouse boards where the low bias option is nice for summers here in California.
Hard to believe that my Krell clone is almost 10 years old. Still going strong. I've got the Pinkmouse boards where the low bias option is nice for summers here in California.
Mine are 9 years old. Still work perfectly though I don't listen to them very often. My room is fairly small and the fan noise get to me after a while.
Yeah
Terry, I hear you on that!
Also anyone who says 60C is when touching the Heatsink hurts, I cannot believe. I think it hurts about 53C but maybe I'm just a wuss.
Seems like you and I have built quite a number of amps- should we start a comparison thread? Which one do you like the best?
Maybe I'm just wondering if I a have lost out on the the newest DX amps and Honey Badger? But then again, I have a few amps over here that have not been plugged in for 2 or more years.
Terry, I hear you on that!
Also anyone who says 60C is when touching the Heatsink hurts, I cannot believe. I think it hurts about 53C but maybe I'm just a wuss.
Seems like you and I have built quite a number of amps- should we start a comparison thread? Which one do you like the best?
Maybe I'm just wondering if I a have lost out on the the newest DX amps and Honey Badger? But then again, I have a few amps over here that have not been plugged in for 2 or more years.
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It really doesn't seem like ten years since I was finalising the PCB whilst watching the snooker, but the World Championship has come around again so it must be! 🙂
Mine is currently on the shelf, needs new PSU caps, the s/h ones I used finally reached the end of their natural life. I think I need to design some new speakers to use it properly, currently I'm running multi-way systems with active crossovers, and it just won't fit in the rack with all the other amps.
Or, I could build a bigger rack. 😀
Mine is currently on the shelf, needs new PSU caps, the s/h ones I used finally reached the end of their natural life. I think I need to design some new speakers to use it properly, currently I'm running multi-way systems with active crossovers, and it just won't fit in the rack with all the other amps.
Or, I could build a bigger rack. 😀
I didn't know what a s/h capacitor was, so tried to look it up-
Type SH is a radial leaded aluminum electrolytic capacitor with a +105 ºC, 2000 hour long life rating. The SH is a high reliability product and is ideal for high quality applications that require long life in high temperatures environments.
http://www.cde.com/catalogs/SH.OLD.pdf
Can't wait to see your electricity bills. You must have been using the amp a LOT!
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