Hi,
Lgreen,
thanks for posting that set of instructions and referring Googler to p15 where it tells him exactly how to connect his transformer.
Googler,
learn to read!!!!!
You'll gather I'm more than a little annoyed.
Lgreen,
thanks for posting that set of instructions and referring Googler to p15 where it tells him exactly how to connect his transformer.
Googler,
learn to read!!!!!
You'll gather I'm more than a little annoyed.
I have got a 1000VA 4*20v toroid is it possible to use this for testing without the outputs connected as described in the wiki ?
(would be about 28 V DC)
I'm waiting fore a 1000 VA 4*28v to arrive wich i will use,as permanent toroid, but i'm very close on finishing my krell and will possibly test it this weekend, but if i have to change a lot of components to test with the 4*20 toroid i'll better wait.
If i understand the wiki correct q111 has to be mounted on the heatsink with the outputs, but what about f.inst. q107, q108 should they be mounted on heatsink too ?
Sorry if somebody asked a look alike question before i haven't read the whole tread, but a lot of it.
(would be about 28 V DC)
I'm waiting fore a 1000 VA 4*28v to arrive wich i will use,as permanent toroid, but i'm very close on finishing my krell and will possibly test it this weekend, but if i have to change a lot of components to test with the 4*20 toroid i'll better wait.
If i understand the wiki correct q111 has to be mounted on the heatsink with the outputs, but what about f.inst. q107, q108 should they be mounted on heatsink too ?
Sorry if somebody asked a look alike question before i haven't read the whole tread, but a lot of it.
At almost 6000 posts it is not feasible to read this entire thread...
We must remain helpful and courteous to new comers and at the same time they must "attempt" to ask throughout questions and do some searching before posting.
Googler, if your transformer has 3 wires, look at the pwr PCB and it has three contacts. The two center holes are tied together. You only need to connect the "center tap" lead to one of those holes.
The other two wires need to go in each out side hole. It does not matter which one goes on which side.
The caps should all be orientated the same way. One side is positive voltage so the caps negative (-) side ties to ground, the other side is negative voltage so the positive (+) side ties to ground. The caps must maintain the voltage potential as they are marked. Do not reverse the voltage. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask.
All-
If people have doubts about general pwr wiring concepts I must STRONGLY question whether they should attempt to build a powerful amp with out personal assistance. I would suggest anyone not SOLID in electronics establish a relationship with a fellow member to listen and learn. It may save your life (or house
).....
We must remain helpful and courteous to new comers and at the same time they must "attempt" to ask throughout questions and do some searching before posting.
Googler, if your transformer has 3 wires, look at the pwr PCB and it has three contacts. The two center holes are tied together. You only need to connect the "center tap" lead to one of those holes.
The other two wires need to go in each out side hole. It does not matter which one goes on which side.
The caps should all be orientated the same way. One side is positive voltage so the caps negative (-) side ties to ground, the other side is negative voltage so the positive (+) side ties to ground. The caps must maintain the voltage potential as they are marked. Do not reverse the voltage. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask.
All-
If people have doubts about general pwr wiring concepts I must STRONGLY question whether they should attempt to build a powerful amp with out personal assistance. I would suggest anyone not SOLID in electronics establish a relationship with a fellow member to listen and learn. It may save your life (or house
).....
Hey, take it easy. Just because you are annoyed over a question it doesn't give you an excuse to be rude about it!
I have read far from all of this thread but it's almost 6000posts long and it has been kept at a civil tone all the way, theres no reason to change that now. I, for one am grateful for all help I have gotten in this thread. From you and everyone else but I must admit that that comment pisses me off.
Troy made a good point never the less.
rabstg said:
All-
If people have doubts about general pwr wiring concepts I must STRONGLY question whether they should attempt to build a powerful amp with out personal assistance. I would suggest anyone not SOLID in electronics establish a relationship with a fellow member to listen and learn. It may save your life (or house
Boy, I'm glad you weren't around when I started my first amp. I'd still be looking for someone to help me. The important thing, IMO, is to not be afraid to ask the dumb questions. I didn't have a clue how a power transformer worked when I built my first amp. It was only through asking questions and the kind help of folks on this forum that have gotten me this far. I have learned a lot and so far ony been shocked once. Thankful that we only have 120V mains here in the states. 😀
Blessings, Terry
Almost certain this link has been posted here before.
http://zero-distortion.com/start.htm
Designing your own power supply
What you need to know about building a proper power supply for any amp. Except for actual hands on experience.
Remember that wiring a big value cap in reverse makes a real nice grenade. Better to keep asking so called dumb questions than picking shrapnel out of your bod.
http://zero-distortion.com/start.htm
Designing your own power supply
What you need to know about building a proper power supply for any amp. Except for actual hands on experience.
Remember that wiring a big value cap in reverse makes a real nice grenade. Better to keep asking so called dumb questions than picking shrapnel out of your bod.
ROVSING said:
This is in the Krell Build Wiki. Also I think Stuart responded to my questions on this long ago. Here is a wiki quote (but check there for the links)
So to answer the question- "no but you can if you want to" Only Q111 need be on the output heat sink, you have the option of putting the others there too. This is how I built mine (only Q111)-- but there are a lot of wires to that heatsink!
Hi Kmj,
the questioner asked a range of questions relating to connecting his transformer to Briangt's PSU, not how to build KSA Klone.
I and a few others attempted to help him (8 or 9 replies).
It turns out that the source of his PSU also published a manual which detailed how to connect his transformer.
It appears to me it was not a question of omitting to read a 6000 post thread. More a case of adopting the attitude "I can't be bothered to read instructions".
That sort of laziness is inexcusable.
I am saddened to think that you have some sympathy for him.
If my short repost seemed rude then maybe the message got home.
the questioner asked a range of questions relating to connecting his transformer to Briangt's PSU, not how to build KSA Klone.
I and a few others attempted to help him (8 or 9 replies).
It turns out that the source of his PSU also published a manual which detailed how to connect his transformer.
It appears to me it was not a question of omitting to read a 6000 post thread. More a case of adopting the attitude "I can't be bothered to read instructions".
That sort of laziness is inexcusable.
I am saddened to think that you have some sympathy for him.
If my short repost seemed rude then maybe the message got home.
AndrewT said:
Andrew, I do appreciate your help and I have read every single post in this thread. The problem is the PSU board that I have is not the same as the board used in the gainclone guide that was linked, I believe it is a variant one of the Aleph PSU boards. While I am sure the same principles applied, I wanted to be absolutely positive.
I know that there are many of these PSU boards floating around - I haven't seen any discussion of people actually using them in their Krell clones to date.
Thanks everyone,
Brad
".......I haven't seen any discussion of people actually using them in their Krell clones to date. Thanks everyone, Brad......"
I have not seen pictures or read of anyone finished who used BrianGT's PWR supply boards.
These ARE different from the GC boards, and they WERE designed to compliment the Mini-A, A30, and A5.
I have 4, and will be using 2 of them on my A30 and UcD180ad. I decided to go "old school" (but way over built) on the Krell as is the tradition...
Brad-
Please post pics when done... What caps did you use for the BrianGT PCB's? I only have the 13,000uF 63VDC version from Steve @ Apex.jr. I decided 3 per side was NOT enough for the Krell and will be using 2 68,000 @ 50VDC per rail.. Again from Steve @ Apex.jr.
I have not seen pictures or read of anyone finished who used BrianGT's PWR supply boards.
These ARE different from the GC boards, and they WERE designed to compliment the Mini-A, A30, and A5.
I have 4, and will be using 2 of them on my A30 and UcD180ad. I decided to go "old school" (but way over built) on the Krell as is the tradition...
Brad-
Please post pics when done... What caps did you use for the BrianGT PCB's? I only have the 13,000uF 63VDC version from Steve @ Apex.jr. I decided 3 per side was NOT enough for the Krell and will be using 2 68,000 @ 50VDC per rail.. Again from Steve @ Apex.jr.
I'll be using 20 of the 12,000uf 50WV Nichicon caps that I bought from apexjr. I am planning to put 3 per rail on the board in the PSU box and two per rail off board in the separate monoblocks. 60,000uf per rail or 120,000uf per channel seems beefy enough for me. I'll post pics when I get the cases together.
~Brad
EDIT: Another thought I had a while ago was to put 3x12000uf per cahnnel on teh top of the board and 3x 4700uf axial type on bottom, the leads would be long enough to offset them from the solder tabs so that I could still have room to get in and solder the snap-ins too. That went by the wayside when I decided to go separate the PSU from the rest of the amp.
~Brad
EDIT: Another thought I had a while ago was to put 3x12000uf per cahnnel on teh top of the board and 3x 4700uf axial type on bottom, the leads would be long enough to offset them from the solder tabs so that I could still have room to get in and solder the snap-ins too. That went by the wayside when I decided to go separate the PSU from the rest of the amp.
BrianGT Boards
Hi Googler,
I have 6 of BrianGt's boards and have assembled all of them....they work great. GeWa's explanation of hook-up is correct.
The boards are very nice boards, but I decided not to use them in my KSA50 because they use a single full wave rectifier bridge (with discrete diodes) to supply both pos and neg rails on each board. I've decided to go with a rectifier bridge for each rail.....4 for a two channel KSA.
Another oddity of those boards is that if you view them with transformer In on the left, and PSU Out on the right, then the negative rail is on the top of the PSU rather than the positive rail. This is opposite of how most schematics are layed out, and may have led to some of your confusion.
Robert
Hi Googler,
I have 6 of BrianGt's boards and have assembled all of them....they work great. GeWa's explanation of hook-up is correct.
The boards are very nice boards, but I decided not to use them in my KSA50 because they use a single full wave rectifier bridge (with discrete diodes) to supply both pos and neg rails on each board. I've decided to go with a rectifier bridge for each rail.....4 for a two channel KSA.
Another oddity of those boards is that if you view them with transformer In on the left, and PSU Out on the right, then the negative rail is on the top of the PSU rather than the positive rail. This is opposite of how most schematics are layed out, and may have led to some of your confusion.
Robert
Hi Googler,
my memory must be getting worse.
Is that a separate PSU box for each mono-block Klone?
I would prefer to see a slight bias towards more capacitance beside the amp PCB and less in a remote PSU.
Since you have 20 * 12mF how about +-36mF at the amp and +-24mF at the rectifiers. Fill the extra hole in the Brian board with a cheap 4m7F or 6m8F. You could stretch this bias even further going +-48mF at amp and 12m//6.8m//4.7mF at rectifier.
Multiple caps at the first smoothing are a good tweak to improve ripple capacity.
Have you looked at PSUD11?
You can examine the effect of distributed capacitance in an RCRC type PSU and how it affects ripple and voltage drop.
my memory must be getting worse.
Is that a separate PSU box for each mono-block Klone?
I would prefer to see a slight bias towards more capacitance beside the amp PCB and less in a remote PSU.
Since you have 20 * 12mF how about +-36mF at the amp and +-24mF at the rectifiers. Fill the extra hole in the Brian board with a cheap 4m7F or 6m8F. You could stretch this bias even further going +-48mF at amp and 12m//6.8m//4.7mF at rectifier.
Multiple caps at the first smoothing are a good tweak to improve ripple capacity.
Have you looked at PSUD11?
You can examine the effect of distributed capacitance in an RCRC type PSU and how it affects ripple and voltage drop.
6000?
Or you can use a film decoupling cap in parallel to lower the ESR of your big electrolytics. I just put some in myself.
Actually I think we had this discussion with Googler before if memory serves. Someone suggested using fancy Neutrik connectors on the PSU and amp cases to prevent incorrect hookup and the CRC concept was discussed as well...or was that with someone else?
Edit-
Hey K-Amps, where you at, this was too easy!
Edit#2- found it- this was discussed from about Post 5560 up to around Post 5562.
Or you can use a film decoupling cap in parallel to lower the ESR of your big electrolytics. I just put some in myself.
Actually I think we had this discussion with Googler before if memory serves. Someone suggested using fancy Neutrik connectors on the PSU and amp cases to prevent incorrect hookup and the CRC concept was discussed as well...or was that with someone else?
Edit-
Hey K-Amps, where you at, this was too easy!
Edit#2- found it- this was discussed from about Post 5560 up to around Post 5562.