the C18-650 EL is good for bandpass since its QTS is 0.31.
Ang price ani ng driver bai is igo-igo gyud noun for its sound quality.
a QTS from 0.3 to 0.5 is usually good for single tuned bandpass box. A lower QTS closer to 0.3 will produce a wider passband than a higher QTS( closer to 0.5)
hope this helps
jay-r
Ang price ani ng driver bai is igo-igo gyud noun for its sound quality.
a QTS from 0.3 to 0.5 is usually good for single tuned bandpass box. A lower QTS closer to 0.3 will produce a wider passband than a higher QTS( closer to 0.5)
hope this helps
jay-r
jayrjoe:
pyr , I'll go with ES18BPH with C18-650EL
since ES18BPH was designed for this drivers.
since the nature of my tukars are more on kicks.....
well, tigum sa ko ron.....hehehehe...pareha ta......
bason naay dako X'mas bonus hehehehehe.....
asa ato bai, asa sa selenium, kay murag naakoy kopya sa tanan nga plans.
regards,
pyr , I'll go with ES18BPH with C18-650EL
since ES18BPH was designed for this drivers.
since the nature of my tukars are more on kicks.....
well, tigum sa ko ron.....hehehehe...pareha ta......
bason naay dako X'mas bonus hehehehehe.....
asa ato bai, asa sa selenium, kay murag naakoy kopya sa tanan nga plans.
regards,
hienrich
heheehe, mao kay bunos na this month bai,!!!
PAS3MA2 bai, grabe ka bug-at lagi kay ako gigamit kay COMPAK board tanan (HDF) maybe familiar ka ana nga board. Isa pa lang ako nahuman sa midtop kay grabe ka complicated buhaton specially angles. I'll take a picture on it once mahuman ang pintura. Also sa ako mga bass box kay HDF pod ako gamit, bug-at kaayo pero lig-on gyud cya( dili mo vibrate) ,less bracing nya mas tight & fat sound compare to marine ply bisan walay damping material.
Best regards,
jay-r
heheehe, mao kay bunos na this month bai,!!!
PAS3MA2 bai, grabe ka bug-at lagi kay ako gigamit kay COMPAK board tanan (HDF) maybe familiar ka ana nga board. Isa pa lang ako nahuman sa midtop kay grabe ka complicated buhaton specially angles. I'll take a picture on it once mahuman ang pintura. Also sa ako mga bass box kay HDF pod ako gamit, bug-at kaayo pero lig-on gyud cya( dili mo vibrate) ,less bracing nya mas tight & fat sound compare to marine ply bisan walay damping material.
Best regards,
jay-r
Re: protect
there could be several reasons....depending on the way your protection circuit was designed..
one, there could be a slight dc offset voltage that is below threshold of your protect circuit.
there could be other leds lit up inside your amp...
if your amp operates normally and your speakers are fine, then ther is not much of a concerns here...mere annoyance...
lizgar said:
there could be several reasons....depending on the way your protection circuit was designed..
one, there could be a slight dc offset voltage that is below threshold of your protect circuit.
there could be other leds lit up inside your amp...
if your amp operates normally and your speakers are fine, then ther is not much of a concerns here...mere annoyance...
sir Tony,
Your right it is really annoying, this LED indicators is the only way your amp is communicating with you. Especially in multiple setups, it facilitates trouble shooting on your system. Thats why several high end proaudio amp manufacturer had this system develop, a software base remote amp monitoring system were you could view every operating parameter of your power amp via a PC, temp, load impedance, channel gain, crossover frequency,delay, limiter setting, temperature histogram, current consumption and many more. It is really important that your amp is communicating well with you.
Your right it is really annoying, this LED indicators is the only way your amp is communicating with you. Especially in multiple setups, it facilitates trouble shooting on your system. Thats why several high end proaudio amp manufacturer had this system develop, a software base remote amp monitoring system were you could view every operating parameter of your power amp via a PC, temp, load impedance, channel gain, crossover frequency,delay, limiter setting, temperature histogram, current consumption and many more. It is really important that your amp is communicating well with you.
you can check for cold solder, check the trannies, that drives the protect LEDs, they share common reference voltage (on the power supply board) that might be slightly lower or higher than normal , that could be the cause why both of them are slightly lit. Then to be really sure that no "very slow cooking of your speakers" is occurring, check the dc output offset of the amp, set the input gain control of both channel to full kill, then set your DVM to the DC range and measure the dc output voltage of the amps speaker output, It should read less than a fraction of a volt +/-. Though it is very very remote that both of your amp channel is putting out a small dc offset than normal, slightly lighting up the protect LED but failing to deactivate the output relays but HEY it could happen you know where these amps are from keep me posted
keep me posted
@audiomachines:
do you have ideas or t/s parameters for this:
http://www.kolin.com.ph/ourproducts/audio-pa/pd1850.htm
will this work well on the 1850 horn?
thanks,
macweb
do you have ideas or t/s parameters for this:
http://www.kolin.com.ph/ourproducts/audio-pa/pd1850.htm
will this work well on the 1850 horn?
thanks,
macweb
sub
Sir audiomachine..
I'm from Baguio. I'm new on audio set-ups, well I'm planning to build speakers, subs for live concerts.. I'm planning to build Lab Horn cause a friend of mine have instructions for building it.
As I have read on the first page that you have DIY L36 cerwin vega designs, which is better for concert set-ups, LABHORN or L36 subs? if L36 is better, can you email me also the plans and designs? thanks
Sir audiomachine..
I'm from Baguio. I'm new on audio set-ups, well I'm planning to build speakers, subs for live concerts.. I'm planning to build Lab Horn cause a friend of mine have instructions for building it.
As I have read on the first page that you have DIY L36 cerwin vega designs, which is better for concert set-ups, LABHORN or L36 subs? if L36 is better, can you email me also the plans and designs? thanks
Merry Christmas to All,
Bhuy009,
IMHO i think your better off with the Martin WSX sub, thats what I am using in my current set up, throws much farther than L36 and plays much louder, The Lab horn is so dang heavy and big. I'll send you both plans, the L36 and the Martin WSX sub, so you can decide which one to build. Cheers. Happy Holidays
Best Regards,
Audiomachines
Bhuy009,
IMHO i think your better off with the Martin WSX sub, thats what I am using in my current set up, throws much farther than L36 and plays much louder, The Lab horn is so dang heavy and big. I'll send you both plans, the L36 and the Martin WSX sub, so you can decide which one to build. Cheers. Happy Holidays
Best Regards,
Audiomachines
hello mate Happy New Year too,
no I don't have any simulations. I am using my old cerwin vega 189je drivers from my old L36 cabs. Basically this drivers are for horn loading.
And they sounded better on the wsx cabs. Better loading I guess due to the long horn path length (7 foot) compared to the L36 subs.
Regards,
audiomachines
no I don't have any simulations. I am using my old cerwin vega 189je drivers from my old L36 cabs. Basically this drivers are for horn loading.
And they sounded better on the wsx cabs. Better loading I guess due to the long horn path length (7 foot) compared to the L36 subs.
Regards,
audiomachines
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