I have a Kicker KX2 crossover with the following specs.
High Pass Crossover: 18dB/octave, Variable Frequency (40-300Hz), Low Pass Crossover: 18dB/octave, Optional Low (Line Level) or High (Speaker Level) Stereo Input, Variable Stereo Outputs (5V rms), Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >110dB
How good is the crossover and would it be ok to use in a home stereo system?
High Pass Crossover: 18dB/octave, Variable Frequency (40-300Hz), Low Pass Crossover: 18dB/octave, Optional Low (Line Level) or High (Speaker Level) Stereo Input, Variable Stereo Outputs (5V rms), Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >110dB
How good is the crossover and would it be ok to use in a home stereo system?
What aspects of the crossover are you concerned about being unsuitable?
Part of the answer may depend on how it's going to be used in your home stereo.
Part of the answer may depend on how it's going to be used in your home stereo.
It will be used to send the audio from a preamp to an amplifier for the main speakers and a plate amp for a sub.
I was concerned about how it sounds, the THD ETC...
I was concerned about how it sounds, the THD ETC...
Kicker makes good equipment. Audio should be perfectly clean (to what's audible to human hearing) unless there is some strange problem with compatibility (unlikely).
What are you going to power it with?
What are you going to power it with?
For power I'll use a 12.6Vdc supply.
Might require making my own supply or installing a 7812 in the crossover with a diode in series with the ground lead to make it regulate at 12.6Vdc.
Unless there's a better way.
Might require making my own supply or installing a 7812 in the crossover with a diode in series with the ground lead to make it regulate at 12.6Vdc.
Unless there's a better way.
There are many ways that will work perfectly fine.
The supply voltage doesn't have to be precisely 12v. I don't see specs for voltage but I'd assume that 11-14v would be well within the acceptable range.
You may have problems if you're using a switching power supply. Some can induce high frequency noise.
The supply voltage doesn't have to be precisely 12v. I don't see specs for voltage but I'd assume that 11-14v would be well within the acceptable range.
You may have problems if you're using a switching power supply. Some can induce high frequency noise.
The crossover looks to have its own switch mode supply and is a dual supply so as long as I'm close to 12Vdc I should be fine.
I found a 12 volt supply. It's a cheaper one, but is all I had to try.
Crossover does power up with it so that's good.
Crossover does power up with it so that's good.
Not yet.
Will do that in the morning when I get to work after using a signal generator and scope to verify it works and to make sure the crossover is set for unity gain.
Will do that in the morning when I get to work after using a signal generator and scope to verify it works and to make sure the crossover is set for unity gain.
The crossover seems to work good and sounds good.
Soon as I get the money I have a pair of klipsch bookshelf speakers picked out that I will order.
I'll then try the system again with and without the crossover to see which sounds best.
Soon as I get the money I have a pair of klipsch bookshelf speakers picked out that I will order.
I'll then try the system again with and without the crossover to see which sounds best.
Headroom often makes a big difference in the overall quality and the crossover will increase the available headroom for the high frequency amp by removing the low frequencies. It also reduces stress on the speakers by significantly reducing the excursion at high power.
Indeed it does.
Also eliminates the hit to audio quality caused by the woofer cones moving at frequencies under what they can reproduce.
The only thing I don't like is that at normal listening levels for nearfield listening, there isn't always enough signal for the powered sub's plate amp auto on to trigger and ever since the plate amp was new, it has had a major turn on thump so I can't just turn the auto on to always on and power the amp on and off unless I get a different plate amp with no turn on thump.
Also eliminates the hit to audio quality caused by the woofer cones moving at frequencies under what they can reproduce.
The only thing I don't like is that at normal listening levels for nearfield listening, there isn't always enough signal for the powered sub's plate amp auto on to trigger and ever since the plate amp was new, it has had a major turn on thump so I can't just turn the auto on to always on and power the amp on and off unless I get a different plate amp with no turn on thump.
I don't know how DIY you are but a delay is possible:
https://diyaudiostore.com/products/soft-start-speaker-turn-on-delay-and-dc-protector-boards
There's a link to a forum thread if you have questions about it.
https://diyaudiostore.com/products/soft-start-speaker-turn-on-delay-and-dc-protector-boards
There's a link to a forum thread if you have questions about it.