I measured both pins on q32 and it measured 04.9 mv. What type of component did I measure? Also the photos were to big to send so I am going to shrink them down. I may have to send them one at a time. Is that ok?
I have now measured all 3 pins and found that the 2 outside pins measure 5 mv and the middle pin measured nothing.
If you had no voltage on pin 1 of Q32, you have blown fuses or an open connection between the fuses and Q32.
Measure the DC voltage on each side of the fuses.
Also measure the voltage on the B+ and remote terminals.
For all measurements, have the black meter lead on the chassis ground terminal.
Measure the DC voltage on each side of the fuses.
Also measure the voltage on the B+ and remote terminals.
For all measurements, have the black meter lead on the chassis ground terminal.
All measures fine on the front side. I was able to take the amp out of the enclosure and started to trace p+ after unplugging from the car. When I got to d16 and and had my multimeter set to ohms i measured no resistance. Could this be my problem? D16 looks like a resistor with the shape and colors but seems to have a glass sheen on it. Its size is also smaller.
What does "All measures fine on the front side." mean?
Was there 12 volts on every test point?
D16 is a diode, not a resistor. It's used to protect the amplifier in case B+ and ground are connected with reverse polarity.
Was there 12 volts on every test point?
D16 is a diode, not a resistor. It's used to protect the amplifier in case B+ and ground are connected with reverse polarity.
Yes I got 12 volts at every testpoint, the two fuses, b+, and the remote power (frontside bad slang sorry). Also i typed "p+" in my last reply but I meant remote power.
On the first diagram i measured 1.0 for resistance. The second diagram I did not measure any resistance.
It appears that the solder connections on the inductor (round thing with wire wrapped around it) are defective. Apply pressure to the inductor (push/twist) while looking at the solder connections. Does it look like the solder connections are broken?
The connections dont really look loose but it does look like it could have a bad solder joint on one of the pins. I can take it to work tomorrow and resolder the points.
To get a reliable connection, you need to add new solder to the connections. Remove all of the solder (including the new solder) and then resolder it.
All works. Just a bad solder point. I sucked up the old solder and resoldered both points on the coil. Everything works fine. Like new. Thanks alot for your help. By the way your website is really good. I got a lot to learn and will start there. Let me know if I can do anything for you. I happen to manage a industrial lcd manufacturing floor and we have monitor components go bad all the time. Touch screen controllers as well. You could probably fix alot of them. Let me know if you are interested and next time I scrap a part I will send it to you.
i have this amp as well and am having the problem where only three of the four channels are functioning
amp has been disassembled and both boards inspected no blown caps no indications of burnt connections and no indication that anything has gone bad on any part or either board
and ideas what could be causing this?
amp has been disassembled and both boards inspected no blown caps no indications of burnt connections and no indication that anything has gone bad on any part or either board
and ideas what could be causing this?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.