2nd question: Does it need to? 1 8 ohm B139 on the left channel and the other on the right channel.
dave
O sh!t already confused me.
it say 4-16ohms TEAC AS-100 | Owners Manual, Service Manual, Schematics, Free Download | HiFi Engine
I'm not after miracles, just something reasonable that wont blow anything up.
Thanks
it say 4-16ohms TEAC AS-100 | Owners Manual, Service Manual, Schematics, Free Download | HiFi Engine
I'm not after miracles, just something reasonable that wont blow anything up.
Thanks
Okay, it does support 4ohm loads, that makes it simple. Take two bits of two core wire, run one between the two speakers, connecting plus to plus, and minus to minus. Take your other bit of wire, and connect one end to a speaker as well, leaving the other connections undisturbed. That should be all you need to do, connect up the amp and away you go.
But you can check your wiring by taking the loose wire that would run to the amp, and connecting a 9V battery to the ends. Both cones should move outwards from the basket, in your case towards each other into the gap in the middle of the enclosure. If not, swap wires around 'till they do. Simple. 😀
But you can check your wiring by taking the loose wire that would run to the amp, and connecting a 9V battery to the ends. Both cones should move outwards from the basket, in your case towards each other into the gap in the middle of the enclosure. If not, swap wires around 'till they do. Simple. 😀
Hmmm I get the first bit joining the two speakers, then you say you take one wire and join it to either speaker and join the other end to one channel on the amp?
What if I want to switch back to stereo to maybe run a tweeter on the remote speaker source? Will that still work?
Sorry I did warn you I am a bit thick.
What if I want to switch back to stereo to maybe run a tweeter on the remote speaker source? Will that still work?
Sorry I did warn you I am a bit thick.
Why run it off one ch on a stereo amp? You'll get roughly the same power as running stereo but with higher distortion and music is generally recorded in stereo, so while bass is typically without stereo content that is not always the case and you may end up only getting half the tune. If the amp is only receiving a mono bass signal then I would agree off one ch is better, but if stereo I'd run one sub per ch.
Also have you thought about running one driver inversed to cancel driver nonlinearities? Can't see if you have space to do so, but just a thought.
Also have you thought about running one driver inversed to cancel driver nonlinearities? Can't see if you have space to do so, but just a thought.
Yes, there are lots of ways you could do it, but awty wanted something quick and simple to test the enclosure, which is what I illustrated.
Thanks Al pictures are good.
Baron Groog if you can show me how to wire in stereo I could give that a go to. The speaker is module, just held together by screws, so I can turn one speaker provided the distances aren't critical. How do you wire that and is that a better set up?
Thanks guys I'm getting much better bass and I'm hearing (and feeling) Meg's Kicker on White Stripes Destijl.😎
Baron Groog if you can show me how to wire in stereo I could give that a go to. The speaker is module, just held together by screws, so I can turn one speaker provided the distances aren't critical. How do you wire that and is that a better set up?
Thanks guys I'm getting much better bass and I'm hearing (and feeling) Meg's Kicker on White Stripes Destijl.😎
To wire the speakers in stereo just wire one to each channel of the amp +ve 2 +ve and -ve 2 -ve, if you reverse the mounting of one driver (so you can see the basket and not the cone) you just wire that one the other way round (so -ve from amp to +ve on speaker)-benefit of doing this is the cancelation of driver nonlineararities and 2nd harmonic distortion-results in cleaner bass, less distortion-but some people don't like it as 2nd harmonics often give the "warm" sound and less distortion makes it sound quieter-put simply human ears register distortion as loudness.
Have you got the plans for your enclosure, planning a tapped horn for mine-though your does look cool and takes up MUCH less space-which would get a tick off the missus
Have you got the plans for your enclosure, planning a tapped horn for mine-though your does look cool and takes up MUCH less space-which would get a tick off the missus
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Thanks Barron
If you could possibly draw me a mud map, that would be great. I cant follow worded directions (theres something wrong with my brain processing).
It actually doesn't sound too bad the way it is. Your right that its a little muddy/warm and the teac is warm sounding to (not the Roksan which is very sharp and fast), but the teac allows me a lot more adjusting, even per channel.
I've been listening to live streaming jazz and the bass rifts are good and clarinet is brilliant....well to my untrained ears.
I put a couple of pillows on top and behind (allowing a bit of space) and that has given it a lot more depth.
I basicly bought a plank of 45mm x 240mm x3600mm and a packet of 3" batton screws (about $50 in total) and made it fit to that. Didnt have quite enough left over for the back plate so I used a bit of MDF for now. Stained it in wallnut and deck oil.....Oh I rebated the panel holding the speakers into the top and bottom panel to give it more strength. Also the side panels are longer so it sits on them. Weighs about 28 killo's.
I have one of those treble blockers they advertise on ebay coming, to see how that goes and then I'll give the push, push configuration a go and see whats best for me.
Its a cheap easy project and doesn't work too bad.
If you could possibly draw me a mud map, that would be great. I cant follow worded directions (theres something wrong with my brain processing).
It actually doesn't sound too bad the way it is. Your right that its a little muddy/warm and the teac is warm sounding to (not the Roksan which is very sharp and fast), but the teac allows me a lot more adjusting, even per channel.
I've been listening to live streaming jazz and the bass rifts are good and clarinet is brilliant....well to my untrained ears.
I put a couple of pillows on top and behind (allowing a bit of space) and that has given it a lot more depth.
I basicly bought a plank of 45mm x 240mm x3600mm and a packet of 3" batton screws (about $50 in total) and made it fit to that. Didnt have quite enough left over for the back plate so I used a bit of MDF for now. Stained it in wallnut and deck oil.....Oh I rebated the panel holding the speakers into the top and bottom panel to give it more strength. Also the side panels are longer so it sits on them. Weighs about 28 killo's.
I have one of those treble blockers they advertise on ebay coming, to see how that goes and then I'll give the push, push configuration a go and see whats best for me.
Its a cheap easy project and doesn't work too bad.
Attachments
Thanks Barron
If you could possibly draw me a mud map, that would be great. I cant follow worded directions (theres something wrong with my brain processing).
It actually doesn't sound too bad the way it is. Your right that its a little muddy/warm and the teac is warm sounding to (not the Roksan which is very sharp and fast), but the teac allows me a lot more adjusting, even per channel.
I've been listening to live streaming jazz and the bass rifts are good and clarinet is brilliant....well to my untrained ears.
I put a couple of pillows on top and behind (allowing a bit of space) and that has given it a lot more depth.
I basicly bought a plank of 45mm x 240mm x3600mm and a packet of 3" batton screws (about $50 in total) and made it fit to that. Didnt have quite enough left over for the back plate so I used a bit of MDF for now. Stained it in wallnut and deck oil.....Oh I rebated the panel holding the speakers into the top and bottom panel to give it more strength. Also the side panels are longer so it sits on them. Weighs about 28 killo's.
I have one of those treble blockers they advertise on ebay coming, to see how that goes and then I'll give the push, push configuration a go and see whats best for me.
Its a cheap easy project and doesn't work too bad.
If you could possibly draw me a mud map, that would be great. I cant follow worded directions (theres something wrong with my brain processing).
It actually doesn't sound too bad the way it is. Your right that its a little muddy/warm and the teac is warm sounding to (not the Roksan which is very sharp and fast), but the teac allows me a lot more adjusting, even per channel.
I've been listening to live streaming jazz and the bass rifts are good and clarinet is brilliant....well to my untrained ears.
I put a couple of pillows on top and behind (allowing a bit of space) and that has given it a lot more depth.
I basicly bought a plank of 45mm x 240mm x3600mm and a packet of 3" batton screws (about $50 in total) and made it fit to that. Didnt have quite enough left over for the back plate so I used a bit of MDF for now. Stained it in wallnut and deck oil.....Oh I rebated the panel holding the speakers into the top and bottom panel to give it more strength. Also the side panels are longer so it sits on them. Weighs about 28 killo's.
I have one of those treble blockers they advertise on ebay coming, to see how that goes and then I'll give the push, push configuration a go and see whats best for me.
Its a cheap easy project and doesn't work too bad.
H,
????????, a block of porous foam (quite soft) between the units but not
touching is a good idea, jam the same behind the magnet each side also.
rgds, sreten.
Thanks Sreten & Baron.
I'll give it a go and see what I like.
The treble blocker turned up to, but I only got one so I might need another to connect in stereo.
Also picked up the stuff to connect the tweeters.
I'll give it a go and see what I like.
The treble blocker turned up to, but I only got one so I might need another to connect in stereo.
Also picked up the stuff to connect the tweeters.
Is the voice coil grounded to the frame of that driver, or is that rusty-looking washer actually insulation for the terminal?
That rusty looking washer is a fibre washer. Not sure if it isolates the terminal from the frame. Should it?
That's how they come, and yes insulation
Yes, it insulates the terminal from the frame.
Did anyone build this ?
Hi !
the link to the B139 Ripole as mentioned in posts 2, 9 and 11 is long gone,
but here it is:
http://forum.vegalab.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=35379&d=1219491106
Did anyone experiment further with the idea of using B139's in a dipole ?
If so;
what's your verdict ?
(apart from the ~98dB max output)
Cheers,
Empee
Hi !
the link to the B139 Ripole as mentioned in posts 2, 9 and 11 is long gone,
but here it is:
http://forum.vegalab.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=35379&d=1219491106
Did anyone experiment further with the idea of using B139's in a dipole ?
If so;
what's your verdict ?
(apart from the ~98dB max output)
Cheers,
Empee