Adason, what tweeters are you using?
If I built CBTs I would but two side pieces with the proper curve (router or jigsaw) then create the baffle by gluing on mutiple layers of 1/8" or 1/4" untempered hardboard (aka Masonite. The tempered version doesn't glue as well). Then a jig that matches the curve and sits on the baffle to hold a router for the speaker cutouts. A bit of work to make the jig but it would make the cutting way faster and more accurate.
Good luck and keep posting!
bearberry
If I built CBTs I would but two side pieces with the proper curve (router or jigsaw) then create the baffle by gluing on mutiple layers of 1/8" or 1/4" untempered hardboard (aka Masonite. The tempered version doesn't glue as well). Then a jig that matches the curve and sits on the baffle to hold a router for the speaker cutouts. A bit of work to make the jig but it would make the cutting way faster and more accurate.
Good luck and keep posting!
bearberry
these:SOLD OUT!! 200 Onkyo Tweeters for $10 (Limit 2 cases per Cus | Parts-Express.com
thanks bearberry for the tips, I will see what can I do
I recruited the help of a colleague with tools
Must be an echo in here? 😀
Think I said pretty much that already?
But thanks for confirming...
_-_-baer
Looks great! 
You are the King of the drill and jigsaw, that's for sure.
Have you done the shading yet? I can't see it in your wiring.
You are the King of the drill and jigsaw, that's for sure.Have you done the shading yet? I can't see it in your wiring.
Yeah, looks really good for someone that builds 'ugly'! 😉
I'm curious, what brand/model RTA and its vertical scale?
GM
I'm curious, what brand/model RTA and its vertical scale?
GM
As far as I remember talking to Don Keele and reading his papers, shading is essential, so don't hold back. You would not be using the same resistor array for woofers and tweeters, right? Or would you?
Don's prototype I listened to had the drivers shaded by sections of 6 each.
Don's prototype I listened to had the drivers shaded by sections of 6 each.
Thank you Adason,
Since building my 2-way line arrays with a dozen 5" Sony mid-woofers and 48 (Apex Jr.) JBL/Audax 10mm dome tweeters--it has been an issue to get the tweeters and 5 inchers to sound right at the 4,300Hz XO point. I have a big dip at the 1 to 4KHz region and it does not sound "right".
Those Aurasound 3" FRs would work perfectly crossed at 400Hz from the 5" woofers then crossed at 4,300Hz to the tweeter line. Their 80mm diameter frames are at exactly 1 wavelength at 4,300 Hz so I can take care of the beaming issues. The smooth response (without EQ) from 400Hz with a mild rise from 1KHz to 4KHz is about perfect for a "passive" line array.
Considering your experience with them, do you think 21 of them would have any issues being crossed at 400Hz with a 2nd order 12dB/Oct passive filter? My use would be in a garage but I'd like to get them to play well with classical music--the big sound and dynamics of the arrays should work well with the demands of classical music.
After viewing what you've done with a jig saw and drill, my Roto-Zip seems to be overboard in wood crafting technology. Would you suggest using the plumber's putty trick on the Aura frames or are they solid enough not to "ring"?
Since building my 2-way line arrays with a dozen 5" Sony mid-woofers and 48 (Apex Jr.) JBL/Audax 10mm dome tweeters--it has been an issue to get the tweeters and 5 inchers to sound right at the 4,300Hz XO point. I have a big dip at the 1 to 4KHz region and it does not sound "right".
Those Aurasound 3" FRs would work perfectly crossed at 400Hz from the 5" woofers then crossed at 4,300Hz to the tweeter line. Their 80mm diameter frames are at exactly 1 wavelength at 4,300 Hz so I can take care of the beaming issues. The smooth response (without EQ) from 400Hz with a mild rise from 1KHz to 4KHz is about perfect for a "passive" line array.
Considering your experience with them, do you think 21 of them would have any issues being crossed at 400Hz with a 2nd order 12dB/Oct passive filter? My use would be in a garage but I'd like to get them to play well with classical music--the big sound and dynamics of the arrays should work well with the demands of classical music.
After viewing what you've done with a jig saw and drill, my Roto-Zip seems to be overboard in wood crafting technology. Would you suggest using the plumber's putty trick on the Aura frames or are they solid enough not to "ring"?
that 60-80 Hz bump is from the sub
I just wanted to know how it rolls off on high frequencies, since I heard some highest stuff missing, its droping sharply after 10k
but with gentle eq after 10k Hz up, speakers sound great sweet even without tweeters
they are making sweet music right now
I just wanted to know how it rolls off on high frequencies, since I heard some highest stuff missing, its droping sharply after 10k
but with gentle eq after 10k Hz up, speakers sound great sweet even without tweeters
they are making sweet music right now
18Hurts, I am sure you can cross Aura at 400Hz, their Fs is about 150Hz. I am crossing them actively to the sub at 160Hz. Thats what I have right now, one spare line level crossover 160Hz, that might change.
The Aura's are great sounding, before I decided to buy potload of them, I tested short array of four per side, all four parallel, giving 4 ohms. That sounded great. I recommend these speakers, they are well built.
Putty would definitely help, but I would not bother, at normal listening levels each one is receiving miniscule power not to ring. My opinion. I definitely have not heard any ringing.
Considering they cost $1.50 each, I would not hesitate, go and get some.
18Hurts, here is the link to 3" Aura's fr response and TS parameters
Aurasound NS3-194-16A 3" Paper Cone 16 ohm: Madisound Speaker Store
Aurasound NS3-194-16A 3" Paper Cone 16 ohm: Madisound Speaker Store
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