Just screw it on a piece of spruce

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#22
Christer said:

Not necessarily. A metal chassis provides some electric shielding
which may or may not be necessary depending on the actual
equipment and the levels of RFI where you live.
Click to expand...

Yeh, fair enough, so its a bit of a trade-off, also in the looks department. Decided not to comment on RFI, not knowing much about it, except that braiding wires is good 😉
 
#25
SimontY said:
No chassis must be a good chassis, and wood, well it must be better than metal, it makes good sense to me 🙂
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I noticed on many occasions that removing top cover improves the sound. This is how I'm using my CD player now. Too much damping is not good either. I have a nice (who knows what it is) piece of some sort of soft damping material (1/4" thick) and when I place it directly on top of the machanism the sound becomes sort of dead.

Using too much wood not always garantees the best results. Sometimes it seems too damped and not airy enough. You need to find a proper balance.

I'm surprised the guy is using PCB. At the price he asks, he should be doing it p2p in 3-dimentional plane, and he would avoid further resonance problems assosiated with PCB material😉
 
#26
Shield Have Sounds Too..........

Christer said:
Not necessarily. A metal chassis provides some electric shielding which may or may not be necessary depending on the actual equipment and the levels of RFI where you live. [/B
Click to expand...

Putting a steeel, aluminium or wooden top cover on a typical amplifier changes the sonic character of that amplifier IME multiple times.
The reasons may be RF screening, magnetic shielding, mechanical resonances etc or whatever, but regardless a identifiable character is imparted.

Eric.
 
#27
Interesting that we've gone onto top covers, and its relieving(!) to hear that others are finding a change here too. I thought I would be told off for suggesting I hear the difference, but it looks like its a common experience.

Would anyone (Eric, Peter Daniel...) care to suggest what the sonic signature of different materials seems to be? (or not, as I guess its been said before)

I read in another thread the other day, apologies for not remembering which, that someone took the lid off his Wadia(??) CDP to find he didn't like the sound at all. I immediately wondered if the probably heavy lid was colouring the sound to make it 'weighty' (hehe, weighty). IMHO if a system needs that kind of 'tuning' its probably lacking elsewhere and preferring/using a heavy lid sound is perhaps a bandage type cure, and not helping to reach an accurate sound.

edit: it reminds me of when I first got my Marantz 63ki - the bass had such a wallop, but I could only listen for 30 seconds or shorter periods (made me close my ears and even eyes!), it got modified about a day into owning it - some damping and coupling cones, and the false dynamics practically disapeared! (ironically, this was the sonic character that sold the player and made it a "classic")
 
#29
Just Another Tone Control.........

Hi Simon,
Yeah, physically heavy equipment usually sounds 'heavy' and 'solid'.
Wood can add a character or colouration that sounds good or bad according to the type and preferences.
Aluminium according to mass, shape, coating and alloy type adds another usually 'harshness' character, and steel (iron) lids add another usually sonically ok character according to mass, alloy and coating.
Old Philips/Marantz CD players with diecast chassis had another fundamental character all of their own.
Philips and Sanyo diecast CD laser pickup assy's have another fundamental character.

Chassis/lid materials are part of the overall sonic equation.

Eric.
 
#32
Thanks for the responses.

I wonder if Cryus had in mind these effects when it decided to make shoe-box shape components, and use diecasting (not sure that's a word!).

And is this the real reason DNM use acrylic casing: "An almost total elimination of metal from the designs - from the casework right through to the connectors and volume controls." I bet it is...
analog_sa mentioned acrylic in that other thread: "acrylic sounded quite unobtrusive..." This is all very exciting for me, though I guess its old news to some ppl round here! 🙂

edit: old news to one person at least 😉
 
#33
I'll be using springs in my CD platform suspention. How flexible (on a soft side) should I adjust them?

And yes, I learned about materials on this board😉

As you remember my firs GC was all aluminum. At certain time I've built the GC which was in a maple cube and was using a lot of copper for heat dissipation. Both amps were using identical circuits. I was a bit disappinted with all maple and copper version. I thought it would sound superior, but actually it was rather dull sounding without much top extention (the air). Well it may depend on your taste, but I didn't really like that sound.
 
#34
Car valve springs work well under speakers and other heavy machines including heavy CDp and amplifiers.
You might want to go for the right spring softness to get free floating for your CDP mech however.

I think you should repeat that experiment with another type of wood and see what you get.
Be wary of false 'airiness' and false 'extension' - copper can cause a damping/loading character that is not always bad, but may sound overly dead on initial listening.
To my ear aluminium adds a characteristic harshness.

Eric.
 
#36
Alex S said:
r0cket,

I see you have, with great care and consideration, positioned the PCB asymmetrically on the wooden board to minimise the effects of standing waves 😀
Click to expand...

And I assure you, I spent countless hours in the lab testing every material I could get my hands on before settling on this particular chunk of bird cage...
 
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