JPW Attenuation

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Yeah this was a really easy fix, no shorting, no modifications of any kind required. I'm wondering now, would there be any point in replacing these crossover caps? I feel like I need to do SOMETHING after stuffing around with them. If there was some improvment available I would happily do it.
 
Yeah this was a really easy fix, no shorting, no modifications of any kind required. I'm wondering now, would there be any point in replacing these crossover caps? I feel like I need to do SOMETHING after stuffing around with them. If there was some improvment available I would happily do it.

Maybe the two smaller electrolytic caps is worth to replace with poly caps. It is likely that the sound will change slightly or maybe more, if the elcos have drifted values already.
It is possible that you need a compensation of electrolytic caps higher ESR when replacing with poly caps, but not necessarily.
 
How old are these speakers? Is there a manufacturer's name on the electrolytic caps?

I bought them new in '99. I don't see anything other than specifications, apparently they're something generic.

Maybe the two smaller electrolytic caps is worth to replace with poly caps. It is likely that the sound will change slightly or maybe more, if the elcos have drifted values already.
It is possible that you need a compensation of electrolytic caps higher ESR when replacing with poly caps, but not necessarily.

Any suggestions how much? 🙂
 
In my opinion, it's worth the experience to just simply replace the electrolytics to poly. Not for a big buck poly but for a cheap one first.
In worst case, you may not like the sound, but then you can compensate the lower esr (e.g. adding 0,2-1 Ohm typically).
But if you have some luck, the additional resistance may not needed and you are happy with the closer to ideal capacitors in your xover!
 
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I went with Jantzen Z-Standards...I was looking for Z-Silver until I saw the price, after all, I am not a fanatic just yet. While I was looking, I checked around for a 300uF and didn't find anything audio dedicated, buncha start caps and some flash caps. Some other guy was selling NOS Rubycon's dated 1984 that looked like they might work, but as I understand it, electrolytics have a shelf life. Or does that only apply when they're in use?



Not sure why the 300uF appears to be un-replaceable, at least with audio grade parts.
 
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